PLEASE HELP!! Hella engine ticking noise
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From: >>>_FRISCO_MUSCLE_<<<
PLEASE HELP!! Hella engine ticking noise Finished the installation of some mod to a 2000 TA M6. Mod list is 228/232, ported 241 milled 62cc w/match exhaust port, UD pulley, pacesetter LT, ORY with 3" exhaust, Ford SVO 30#, ported LS6 oil pump. The intake and TB are bone stock.
I drive out for a tune and easy on the everything. The idle is fine and drive good, no misfire and KR. Then do some change to the tune for a second run. This time I rev it to 4500~rpm and shift. It runs ok but there's some ticking noise coming from the head area.
Go home, open the valve cover and check, nothing wrong. Fire it up again, now the noise is louder. Even at idle the noise is very noticeable. Also, the oil pressure gauge stays at 60psi all the time. After the second run, now the oil pressure drop to 40psi at idle. Give it some gas it'll jump up alittle.
Long story short, did the 4500rpm run fxxk that something up or the tune? What should I check for those ticking noise?
I drive out for a tune and easy on the everything. The idle is fine and drive good, no misfire and KR. Then do some change to the tune for a second run. This time I rev it to 4500~rpm and shift. It runs ok but there's some ticking noise coming from the head area.
Go home, open the valve cover and check, nothing wrong. Fire it up again, now the noise is louder. Even at idle the noise is very noticeable. Also, the oil pressure gauge stays at 60psi all the time. After the second run, now the oil pressure drop to 40psi at idle. Give it some gas it'll jump up alittle.
Long story short, did the 4500rpm run fxxk that something up or the tune? What should I check for those ticking noise?
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From: BFE
Ticking can come from various areas, to name some:
1- improper length pushrods
2- wrong install of rockers (wrong procedure)
3- and this one is common, pinched O ring on oil pump pick up tube.
1- improper length pushrods
2- wrong install of rockers (wrong procedure)
3- and this one is common, pinched O ring on oil pump pick up tube.
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From: >>>_FRISCO_MUSCLE_<<<
I line up the rocker arm to the pedestal, the tip to the valve stem center. Then sit the rocker arm all the way down b4 I start tighten the bolt. I torque each bolt to 22ft lb. I don't see I've done anything wrong when installing the rocker arm.
About the oil pump O-ring, I thought about the for a mintue. However, I won't even got oil pressure if the O-ring was pinched the at the very begining. The car runs fine the first time when I fire it up for 20min @2000rpm idle. Then it's doing good for at least another 40min when I drive it under 3000 rpm @~30% throttle. Thing started to screw up until when I do the 4500rpm @~50% throttle run.
I'll definitly check on the header leak. Yea, we installed new headers when we put back the head. So that's one area we've touched.
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From: >>>_FRISCO_MUSCLE_<<<
I found something that's very weird. B4 all this mess happen, the owner found that the hone doesn't work. We thought it's something loose or so. We didn't take care of that cuz no big deal.
After all this mess happened, I pull out the driver side valve cover and check for broken rocker or valve spring last nite. Then I put every back and fire it up again. The engine starts but now the tachometer DOESN'T WORK!!! The damn needle don't even move a bit.
I talked to a friend about this (He's a ASE mechanic). He said maybe there's something loose, either the cam gear or the oil pump. How did the rpm signal feet to the cluster? Through a sensor or something else? I'll check this with my GM SI now.
After all this mess happened, I pull out the driver side valve cover and check for broken rocker or valve spring last nite. Then I put every back and fire it up again. The engine starts but now the tachometer DOESN'T WORK!!! The damn needle don't even move a bit.
I talked to a friend about this (He's a ASE mechanic). He said maybe there's something loose, either the cam gear or the oil pump. How did the rpm signal feet to the cluster? Through a sensor or something else? I'll check this with my GM SI now.
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From: >>>_FRISCO_MUSCLE_<<<
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From: BFE
LS7 lifters are official GM LS1/LS6 replacement lifters, wht GM fails to mention is that LS7 lifters have aproximately .060 higher cup and require shorter pushrods to re-establish preload in the correct range.
In other words, if you went and bought new ls1 lifters, they are the ls7 lifters, and you need ~0.050" shorter purshrods to maintain the right preload.