PLEASE HELP!! Hella engine ticking noise
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From: BFE
Then call/e-mail some companies and compare that to the price of a forged shortblock.
Then make your decision.
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From: >>>_FRISCO_MUSCLE_<<<
My bad for my poor english. Now I get what you mean by "Band Aid". Yeah that performance shop said they'll just "FIX" it. Then told my friend the block is not gonna last long. They also charge $1000 just for the fix. I was like, why the block won't last long and what could be wrong with it??
Yea, I'll go to the other machine shop tomorrow (well couple hours later) and get some idea/info. That's the same shop who did the port head for my friend. I mentioned that a while back if you guys remember.
BTW, stun a rod bearing should not damage the block right, in theory? After that performance shop guy told my friend about his block, he's kinda worry now. He's don't wanna rebuild the block now and couple months later it got problem.
Pred-Z, can you kindly explain some scenario here? Like will the old block be reusable for rebuild? Are you recommend reusing it? I'm gonna show this thread to my friend so he know what's the REAL expert recommended.
Yea, I'll go to the other machine shop tomorrow (well couple hours later) and get some idea/info. That's the same shop who did the port head for my friend. I mentioned that a while back if you guys remember.
BTW, stun a rod bearing should not damage the block right, in theory? After that performance shop guy told my friend about his block, he's kinda worry now. He's don't wanna rebuild the block now and couple months later it got problem.
Pred-Z, can you kindly explain some scenario here? Like will the old block be reusable for rebuild? Are you recommend reusing it? I'm gonna show this thread to my friend so he know what's the REAL expert recommended.
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From: Bay Area, CA
band aid = being cheap and only fixing the immediate issue and putting it all back together.
i think what everyone is saying is do it right, forge it etc, or you/owner will be back in 6monthes to a year redoing everything.
do it right, get the right parts, built it correctly, or have someone who knows how to do it do the work.
i think what everyone is saying is do it right, forge it etc, or you/owner will be back in 6monthes to a year redoing everything.
do it right, get the right parts, built it correctly, or have someone who knows how to do it do the work.
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From: >>>_FRISCO_MUSCLE_<<<
Teching In
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From: NEPTUNE
Teching In
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 26
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From: NEPTUNE
Finished the installation of some mod to a 2000 TA M6. Mod list is 228/232, ported 241 milled 62cc w/match exhaust port, UD pulley, pacesetter LT, ORY with 3" exhaust, Ford SVO 30#, ported LS6 oil pump. The intake and TB are bone stock.
I drive out for a tune and easy on the everything. The idle is fine and drive good, no misfire and KR. Then do some change to the tune for a second run. This time I rev it to 4500~rpm and shift. It runs ok but there's some ticking noise coming from the head area.
Go home, open the valve cover and check, nothing wrong. Fire it up again, now the noise is louder. Even at idle the noise is very noticeable. Also, the oil pressure gauge stays at 60psi all the time. After the second run, now the oil pressure drop to 40psi at idle. Give it some gas it'll jump up alittle.
Long story short, did the 4500rpm run fxxk that something up or the tune? What should I check for those ticking noise?
I drive out for a tune and easy on the everything. The idle is fine and drive good, no misfire and KR. Then do some change to the tune for a second run. This time I rev it to 4500~rpm and shift. It runs ok but there's some ticking noise coming from the head area.
Go home, open the valve cover and check, nothing wrong. Fire it up again, now the noise is louder. Even at idle the noise is very noticeable. Also, the oil pressure gauge stays at 60psi all the time. After the second run, now the oil pressure drop to 40psi at idle. Give it some gas it'll jump up alittle.
Long story short, did the 4500rpm run fxxk that something up or the tune? What should I check for those ticking noise?
And are you just a backyard mechanic working on this guys car? If so i really hope that you are paying for what you messed up.
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If you spun rod bearings AND you heard ticking at the top end, then that most likely means the pistons were making contact with the cylinder head. And if you have ring land damage, this is where that happened, the piston hit the head and 'bent' the top of piston and did some damage to it. I had this happen to me on my Olds engine.
Hopefully the head is ok. Also, since cylinder 1 and 3 are on the same crank throw and chances are they both were smacking the head, your crank may be FUBAR as well (just as mine was), this is due to the crank trying to rotate thru its circumfirance and all the sudden the piston thats connected to it suddenly wants to stop when it hits the head, and that puts huge force on the crank.
Have the crank magnafluxed at the least, or just toss it assuming its screwed, which it probly is. Sounds like time for a stoker!!
And like everyone says, do it the right way.
When the shop said that the rod bearings had spun, did they mention material in the oil, things that look like they used to be piston rings??
Hopefully the head is ok. Also, since cylinder 1 and 3 are on the same crank throw and chances are they both were smacking the head, your crank may be FUBAR as well (just as mine was), this is due to the crank trying to rotate thru its circumfirance and all the sudden the piston thats connected to it suddenly wants to stop when it hits the head, and that puts huge force on the crank.
Have the crank magnafluxed at the least, or just toss it assuming its screwed, which it probly is. Sounds like time for a stoker!!
And like everyone says, do it the right way.
When the shop said that the rod bearings had spun, did they mention material in the oil, things that look like they used to be piston rings??
Teching In
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From: NEPTUNE
backyard tuners F T L Thread Starter
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From: >>>_FRISCO_MUSCLE_<<<
Hey bro, the same ting happenned to me. H/C install and bam crapped a couple bearings also during break in. My recommendation is to forge it and forget it. It will have to be done eventually, just do it now and get it over with. It's up to you whether you want to reuse the old motor or sell it for what you can get and buy one flat out. This happenned to me last August and am now just getting the car back together again. I also put alot more into too it this time... It can get pricey really quick though.