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Engine tick when car warms up.

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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 12:07 PM
  #21  
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After reading every post it seemed like. I wonder if my oil pump o-ring might be the problem, that would be a pain in the ***. It sounds like the tick is the driver side back like 5 n 7 cylinders. What does anyone think about this.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 04:14 PM
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It could be but are your seeing unsteady oil pressure or low oil pressure? I have yet to hear a quiet valvetrain with aftermarket cam, springs & pushrods.

I'm starting to think maybe your over-reacting a little to the typical valvetrain noise increase. Is this the first LS1 car you have done valvetrain work on & listened to it afterwards? The sewing machine or ticking noise thats RPM relative is very common with these cars once you add stiffer springs & larger cam.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 06:10 PM
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Yea my oil pressure is steady, this is my first LS1 but it's loud man and it ticks when it's at operating temp not when i first start it. I wonder if a thicker oil or somethin will help, it just sucks when i spend that much money on parts and i have a problem.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Austin02WS6
Yea my oil pressure is steady, this is my first LS1 but it's loud man and it ticks when it's at operating temp not when i first start it. I wonder if a thicker oil or somethin will help, it just sucks when i spend that much money on parts and i have a problem.
That's just it, you may not have a problem at all. If oil pressure is steady, its unlikely to be the o-ring. Trust me, I've had an o-ring go south on me... you'd KNOW if it was lacking oil pressure on the top-end. Even if the o-ring wasn't completely broken, but instead kinked, your oil pressure would probably be really unstable and your gauge would be dancing all over the place.

Can you get some sort of sound clip or anything to better help us diagnose the issue? My guess as to what you are hearing is the typical valve train noise that these motors produce when swapping in a healthy cam, stronger springs, and new lifters. Does the car run like ****? Do you have any friends/relative with LSx cars that have a big cam, or have done similar mods?

The simple fix for peace of mind is checking pre-load. If you know the pushrods are new, valve springs are new, cam is new, lifters are new... it should be safe to assume none of these things are messed up... and that the noise you're hearing is completely normal when doing such modifications. If you check pre-load and verify it is within a safe range... then as I stated above, THERE IS PROBABLY NO PROBLEM AT ALL. Check pre-load, man.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Austin02WS6
Yea my oil pressure is steady, this is my first LS1 but it's loud man and it ticks when it's at operating temp not when i first start it. I wonder if a thicker oil or somethin will help, it just sucks when i spend that much money on parts and i have a problem.
i know what you mean, man... mine is the exact same, which is why im watching this thread lol

i start mine in the morning, it sounds great... idle is perfect and she warms up nicely.

no tick.

after she's warm, i roll out of the driveway and down the street. about 5-7 minutes of ~2500 rpm cruising and a couple of lights, i hear a small tick that sounds like ONE tick, not a uniform rotating 16 ticks. that one tick gets louder and louder until i can hear it very distinctly on the freeway.

if i cruise long enough in 6th gear, sometimes it will go away... until i give it a little gas and it slowly comes back.

i can also feel what i think is valve float when its ticking... sounds like there is a 'miss' in the exhaust and there is a slight hesitation when i hit the gas.

i ordered a PR checker and some 7.35 pushrods, hopefully thats the length i'll need, cuz my dumb *** went ahead and ordered them after a nerve wracking drive home from work yesterday. lol
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 11:47 AM
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I'll try to get a video. but yea my preload was a little less then a turn an a half. I haven't seen another LS car with a cam so i dont no if it's the same sound.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 02:39 PM
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i had this same issue. not the new you want to hear but probably the oil pump o-ring. my car held good pressure at idle then after it got hot while cruising it dropped to about 20. took it back apart after checking rockers and pushrods and thats what was wrong.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 04:37 PM
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My oil pressure doesn't drop though. When it's hot at idle its around 40 psi. When i get on it, it goes to about 50 or so. Wouldn't my oil be aerated if the o-ring was bad too.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Austin02WS6
My oil pressure doesn't drop though. When it's hot at idle its around 40 psi. When i get on it, it goes to about 50 or so. Wouldn't my oil be aerated if the o-ring was bad too.
maybe there really isnt anything to worry about then. you could just have a noisy valvetrain.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 07:32 PM
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Maybe, it's just weird. It only seems like it's the driverside though, like 5 and 7 cylinders. Alot of people on here have the same problem but i never see a post where they find out what it is. When i look at the motor it seems like it's coming from the driverside back and underneath, thats what makes me feel like it's not just a noisy valvetrain. Hopefully it's an exhaust leak im gonna mess with it this weekend.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Austin02WS6
Maybe, it's just weird. It only seems like it's the driverside though, like 5 and 7 cylinders. Alot of people on here have the same problem but i never see a post where they find out what it is. When i look at the motor it seems like it's coming from the driverside back and underneath, thats what makes me feel like it's not just a noisy valvetrain. Hopefully it's an exhaust leak im gonna mess with it this weekend.
i still have noise from that side around that area too. mine is an exhaust leak because there is a manifold bolt broke off in the head
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 09:11 PM
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Has anyone ever thought that it could be the shitty paper header gaskets some of us use on new headers? just a thought cause my car does basically the same thing as desribed, hopefully it doesnt still do it after my heads and cam are all done
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 09:46 AM
  #33  
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Yea I have new metal gm header gaskets. Im gonna check today since my work week is done.
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 11:34 AM
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please let me know what you find. my 7.35 PRs get here tomorrow, im gonna throw those in and see if it helps.
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 12:30 PM
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Yea maybe i need longer pushrods or somethin, i went 1 1/2 turns then got to 22ft.lbs. what preload is that around .80 or somethin?
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Austin02WS6
Yea maybe i need longer pushrods or somethin, i went 1 1/2 turns then got to 22ft.lbs. what preload is that around .80 or somethin?
have the same problem with my heads and cam car. everything is new and after driving for about 20 minutes or so the car starts to tick very loud. If i stomp on it it goes away for a while longer. i've got good steady oil pressure and car has plenty of power and idles great. i switched to a heavier conventional oil and seems a little better than before

let me know if those different pushrods make a difference.
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 07:34 PM
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I'm running that cam with 7.4 PR, YT RR, Patriot Gold dual springs and LS7 lifters with no problem. Maybe I'm just lucky.
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 10:23 PM
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Yea tonight i just put Valvoline 20w50 oil in and the tick went away alot, i barely hear it. I wonder why that helped cause my oil pressure is always good. Car runs great now.
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 11:03 PM
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^speed inc. told me to stick with mobil 1 5w 30, or royal purple 5w 30. I ran 20w 50 in my 383 lt1 with no problems, but speed inc. suggests that oil for lt1 strokers. If I was you, maybe contact them and see what they say.
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 08:22 AM
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gonna step it up to 20w-50 next. is this okay to run 5.5 quarts? anybody else run this in their cars and have good performance?
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