Engine tick when car warms up.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2008
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From: Elkton, MD
Engine tick when car warms up. I just got done putting a TR230 cam in my car along with a thunder racing oil pump, 7.4 pushrods, comp 921 dual valve springs, manley double roller timing chain. I used my stock rockers torqued to 22 ft.lbs. I fired the car up had oil pressure, it was runnin great. I took it for a ride and about 10 minutes into it i could hear a tap, when i would raise the rpm's the faster the tap was. So i went back to my house and checked all my rockers cause i no it's not an exhaust leak and all were still good 22ft.lbs. So i dont no if maybe i need longer pushrods or if my lifters are getting bad or what. So if someone had a similar problem or can help me i'd appreciate it.
Did you check your pushrod length? May not have enough preload on the lifters. Sounds alot like the problem I had but mine was due to a pinched o ring on the pump and the lifters not getting quite enough oil.
You need to check preload.
You need to check preload.
i have the same cam and same problem. i am running 7.4's and have yella terra non adjustables and prc dual golds. i have been running mine like this for a while now. its either a pinched o-ring or weak lifters. i have been trying to figure this out for a while now and no luck. the only thing i havent done is replaced lifters and pullled front cover to check oring. let me know what you find. send me a pm if you could please. i know this isnt much help. but maybe someone knows.
i keep getting told that LS1s are just loud like this and that its normal, i have it too and have been 100 miles to the track back and forth with 3-4 runs and giant burnouts with no problems.
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From: Bergen County, NJ
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Some people here just kill me !!
how hard is it to check for PR length and pre-load?
after you do a cam swap you should NEVER just put in stock length or any rods for that matter or even take someones word for it, BUY A CHECKER AND MEASURE !! PERIOD !!
how hard is it to check for PR length and pre-load?
after you do a cam swap you should NEVER just put in stock length or any rods for that matter or even take someones word for it, BUY A CHECKER AND MEASURE !! PERIOD !!
Last edited by bigboykilroy; Jun 17, 2009 at 08:38 AM.
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From: Maryland
you are supposed to change the lifters with a new cam anyway. the lifters you have in there are worn to the old cam so this MAY be causing it. New cam = New lifters always. Im not saying to not check proper preload though this is also important.
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Teching In
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From: Elkton, MD
Yea thats y im changing my lifters, and i figured i'd do some head work like bigger valves and get them to flow a little better. I no you say to check the pushrod length but TR said they haven't had a problem with that cam and those pushrods with stock heads n i think they would no!
As to the OP are you aware that you are going to have a certain amount of valve train noise when you go to a aftermarket cam and upgraded springs...it will never be as quiet as it was when the car was stock....after 190,000 LS series engine miles I ought to know...with the TR230 cam you should be alright with the 7.4 pushrods...but for your peace of mind you should go ahead and check the preload...buying parts and throwing them at the engine without a valid reason is not smart and just a waste of your hard earned $$$ ... that is how you can tell a good mechanic from a parts changer ... work your head and your plan before you invest in new parts..you will save time and money in the long run.
Last edited by slt200mph; Jun 17, 2009 at 02:15 PM.
You dont HAVE to buy new lifters for a new cam, but you should, and if you have the heads off anyway why not spend $100 on a set of LS7s while you are there.
It really doesnt matter what Thunder Racing says, you need to check preload when you change the cam...always...no matter what anyone says. Otherwise why spend all that money on a good valvetrain when its just going to eat itself because you didnt take a half hour the verify the correct preload on the lifters.
It really doesnt matter what Thunder Racing says, you need to check preload when you change the cam...always...no matter what anyone says. Otherwise why spend all that money on a good valvetrain when its just going to eat itself because you didnt take a half hour the verify the correct preload on the lifters.
but if I were to diagnose the TS's problem it would be that the lifters need to be replaced.
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Not true of rollers - old flat tappets yes, rollers no. You only need to consider changing the lifters if you have a lot of miles and they are original or of course if you have problems with the lifters or the cam.
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Teching In
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From: Elkton, MD
Yea the tap seemed to go away, it's still there a little bit but no where near as bad. I love the power the car makes now, i just no im gonna need a new clutch soon though. But in 2 weeks im gonna get my heads ported so i'll just go ahead and put new lifters in.
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I have the same problem, I have a tap or clatter type noise that increases with engine speed however I have a stock '02 Z28. The noise goes away after a while but usually comes back and it only happens when the car is at running temp. Do you think its the o ring or something worse? anything would help I've been trying to figure it out.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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From: Elkton, MD
This DAMN TAP! I went ahead n changed my lifters with LS7's put Patriot heads assembled with 7.350 pushrods for the right preload. My whole top end is brand new so i dont understand this tap, i'm startin to think its an exhaust leak. I have no idea. I have a random missfire code, n when it gets that tap at idle my exhaust sounds muffled or somethin. When i get into it, the tap goes away then comes back when i just cruise, it's weird if anybody can help i'd appreciate it. Thanks.
Teching In
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From: houston, TX.
yah man, im dealin with it right now.
put a cam in, it blew one of my LS1 lifters... it was very distinct, very loud and nerve wracking. i put in a new set of LS7 lifters and the CLACK noise changed, got a little quieter but didnt go away. then it started to get distinct again, i could hear 2 lifters making more noise than the others.
just replaced all 16 LS7 lifters AGAIN yesterday, noise is still there, but a little more muffled. its not exhaust, its making me crazy and im going to measure my preload as soon as my PR checker arrives.
i have no idea what could be causing the damn noise, though.
put a cam in, it blew one of my LS1 lifters... it was very distinct, very loud and nerve wracking. i put in a new set of LS7 lifters and the CLACK noise changed, got a little quieter but didnt go away. then it started to get distinct again, i could hear 2 lifters making more noise than the others.
just replaced all 16 LS7 lifters AGAIN yesterday, noise is still there, but a little more muffled. its not exhaust, its making me crazy and im going to measure my preload as soon as my PR checker arrives.
i have no idea what could be causing the damn noise, though.
No sir you are incorrect when it comes to the roller lifters used in the LS series engines...But you do get bonus points for being correct if you are talking about an old school small block Chevy or any other motor that uses flat tappets or flat bottom lifters...you CAN change cams without changing lifters on the LS series.
As to the OP are you aware that you are going to have a certain amount of valve train noise when you go to a aftermarket cam and upgraded springs...it will never be as quiet as it was when the car was stock....after 190,000 LS series engine miles I ought to know...with the TR230 cam you should be alright with the 7.4 pushrods...but for your peace of mind you should go ahead and check the preload...buying parts and throwing them at the engine without a valid reason is not smart and just a waste of your hard earned $$$ ... that is how you can tell a good mechanic from a parts changer ... work your head and your plan before you invest in new parts..you will save time and money in the long run.
As to the OP are you aware that you are going to have a certain amount of valve train noise when you go to a aftermarket cam and upgraded springs...it will never be as quiet as it was when the car was stock....after 190,000 LS series engine miles I ought to know...with the TR230 cam you should be alright with the 7.4 pushrods...but for your peace of mind you should go ahead and check the preload...buying parts and throwing them at the engine without a valid reason is not smart and just a waste of your hard earned $$$ ... that is how you can tell a good mechanic from a parts changer ... work your head and your plan before you invest in new parts..you will save time and money in the long run.
Agreed & the bolded part is what I think alot of people miss. they expect to change up the valvetrain, add a more agressive cam & it still be quiet as stock, which isn't gonna happen.