Happy to hear that you found the problem..your setup is good and you should make HP in the 450 range...I run a similar setup and mine makes 452/418...the 4.10 gears will wake the car up but a 10 bolt will break no matter what ratio you use if you put sticky tires on it...it is just a matter of time before you break it...

 

Glad you found out the problem man.

Loud valvetrain usually means theres not enough lifter preload like Predator was talking about.

 

when i first started the car, the valvetrain noise was pretty loud, but when i drove it the brake in miles, the valvetrain noise was almoast gone, think i just have to drive it a little bit more,

thanks for all the help, when the motor was assembled there was measured for the push rods and they should be this length, i think i am just unused to run roller rockers an such.

thanks agen!

 

the aftermarket cam will usually cause louder than stock valvetrain noise....just part of modding ......im guessing when the vaccum leak set the ses it put the car into open loop when that happens you are in the low octane timing tables....which makes the car feel a little more sluggish than normal....

as far as the 10 bolt goes a "good" set of gears and some Moser axles will take that little 10 bolt a long way...mine held a 1.60 60ft at a 3750 raceweight.....ive seen lighter cars on here hold down in the 1.4 area on the stock rear...

 

You will experience louder than what your "used" to valve train noises with the new cam. If it gets excessive then your going to have to see if the valve lash was set up correctly. Don't let it go too long because if the valve lash is not set up correctly and it keeps getting louder then you can easily snap a rod, drop a valve or a rocker. just FYI good luck

 

Now i feel like i've lost some power agen,

It runs fine and no warning ligths,

Only thing i noticed is that it runs badly when im cruzing at 4-5gear at about 2k rpm, then it sounds bad and runs badly but gets fine when i gife it more gas,

Gettin kinda bored with this!

 

You can put a 4.10 in the 10 bolt, but if you get it to the point where it will stick you will almost definately break it pretty soon. Not to mention if it's already blowing the tires off, it will just get worse with a 4.10.

You say it's running "bad" again. What exactly is happening? I had a bad spark plug in my car (the insulator cracked...) and it was causing the car to knock around 2300rpm under load and I took forever to figure out what it is.

The bottom line is you need to at least find someone that knows what they are doing tuning an LS1 motor and get them to check things out and at least throw a solid street tune at it. Sorry to tell you that it keeps coming back to it, but ideally, dyno time is going to be the best bet.

Good luck finding the gremlins.

 

Thanks man,

I realy need words for how its running,
Sparkplugs are brand new and i changed every sensor,
I will try to find the words i need and post more info

 

The ses ligth came on agen, Checked fore codes tonigth.

It had 4 codes for o2 sensors. They are new, so I deleted them. The car runs better and i think the power is back. But i need to check it better.

 

the motor looks pretty nice man, but im thinking your cam doesnt have high enough duration what you have is a pretty mild cam, and a little bit more compression would do alot

 

Hee Hee!!