zank28

iTrader: (2)

Haha like i said, i guess its a matter of opinion. Ms4 is a massive cam , but has a better torque curve ,and reaches peak power sooner than a ms3 if i remember correctly. (which would be nicer for a dd) Yikes on that intake lift though.
Imo something like a t2 (232/234 .595.598) is perfect for street/strip/dd. You mite lose a few hp up top (like maybe 10?) but it will be a little less abusive on the valve train and have better street manners.
Just tryin to help.

99Ls1fever

iTrader: (3)

I think that the person who started the thread needs to wiegh in on some of the opnions given and this way we would have a better idea for the direction of the build, and which way he is thinking. 450 hp is going to be achieved by a bigger lift cam, I think we can all agree upon that. Streetabilty on the other hand is in the eyes of the be holder.

KillaCamZ28

I do like the 5.3 milled to 59cc/t2 combo bc i can see it worked for zank28 w/o a ported 90/90; however i guess i should throw in the fact that although i don't do much highway driving.. my daily-driving is only about 8 miles total, with no bumper to bumper. It would be very nice if i could beat my buddys cobra, the many times im assuming we will face off on the street; but my ultimate goal is 480 to the wheels,which makes the bigger cams appealing. I guess i need to research more on how LSA and lift specifically affects driveability.

conan

iTrader: (5)

????????

KillaCamZ28

Thought i answered this.. maybe i didnt. The engine is being pulled. And it a M6, stock t56. Thats why id like to replace as much as possible since i have 135k miles, i'd like then top end to be like new when it's finished.

conan

iTrader: (5)

Sorry man you did answer my Q .

Whats you budget for the rebuild and is there any power adder in your future? At the least I would take the block to a machine shop and have them hot tank the block, check the head decks, hone the cylinders, line hone new main bearing, and replace the cam bearings. If you need alot honed out you might be looking in to a set of 347 pistons, depending on the shape of your cylinders. Also new rod bearins, oil pump, timing chain, and lifters would be a must for me. New clutch while every thing is apart.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

im a stalled a4... have not had my car dynoed yet but i would assume i make under 400rwhp.. not much less, but less.. 390-395?

im full weight... ac radio etc etc etc..

buddy has a cobra on 11 lbs with full bolt ons and water cooled..

i get him in the 1/8 by 2-3/10s and 1 mph.. and pull him from a roll also..

you dont need 480rwhp to beat a pullied cobra..

allthrotle

iTrader: (2)

Some good flowing heads a nice cam and supporting mods and you can take the cobra. My h/c/i combo in my sig put down close to what your looking for and I daily drive it.

99Ls1fever

iTrader: (3)

Fully agree, this is what I would do if I was you. The money you put in heads and cam and valvetrain will be around 1800 to 2000 bucks. I would rather build the bottom end up first. Callie rods are $569.00 and forged pistions are 6xx something. I would rather do the bottom end and know were you are on that end before touching the heads and cam. If you forge it you can run nitrous and then you still have driveability and no cobra problems.
Fully agree with you Cobra's are over rated. But I have heard you were a great driver too

red_ryderSS

iTrader: (1)

I love dd my car. Untouched afr 205s, unported fast 90, nw 90 tb, 228/228 113 lsa custom cam spec'd by Rick at synergy. Very reliable, useful tq curve and I beat up on plenty cobras and large cam only cars. I'm sure if I put a larger cam it would ne me more rwhp, but this isn't a car I take to the track more than 3-4 times a year. IMO heads are the most important part of a quality "combo". Don't get your mind set up on a certain cam only, think about the future of the car and what you will use the car for primarily. If you need more power, throw a 150 shot at it when you need to really embarrass a slowbra. Dyno numbers are in my sig.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

they are heavy, thats the greatest down fall of them..

i just kick it and go!

SMOKNSS

iTrader: (3)

Since you DD the car I would just do full bolt ons, suspesion mods and a nice nitrous kit. I went 11.8Xs that way and got that "OMG WTF!?" Look from MANY of the pullied cobras around here. In my experience a cobra usually has to make 30-40 horses more to be equal with a modded f-body.... since he's your buddy you gotta beat him! Friendly rivalries are the best.... and often MOST expensive. LOL!

KillaCamZ28

[QUOTE=99Ls1fever;11907811]Fully agree, this is what I would do if I was you. The money you put in heads and cam and valvetrain will be around 1800 to 2000 bucks. I would rather build the bottom end up first. Callie rods are $569.00 and forged pistions are 6xx something. I would rather do the bottom end and know were you are on that end before touching the heads and cam. If you forge it you can run nitrous and then you still have driveability and no cobra problems.


I kind of like the forged pistons idea since it makes sense, ill be able to throw nitrous in there and with pistons with a good valve relief.. i can mill either the 5.3 heads to 59cc or mill the ls6 heads and get the best of both worlds, high end power and low end torque.. can u mill the stage 2.5 ls6 heads to 59cc or is that too much?

massconfusion

iTrader: (18)

you don't need a bottom end. tsp has pretty much proved that factory is pretty good. if your set on the bottom end though since your pulling the motor do a 383 pick up a lot more torque while your at it as well. as they say no replacement for displacement. hends and a cam will do a lot more than any bottom end will unless you plan on forced induction or spray

LS1TORQ

iTrader: (1)

talk to Patrick G! get a custom cam and you won't regret it. Im never that impressed with TSP cams. I've been researching for 3 years and this is just what ive seen. Its all about the combination of parts and hp and trq curves not peak numbers.

KillaCamZ28

Really I'd only consider the bottom end bc with forged pistons I can increase the compression on my heads. And it will be better suited for nitrous, if i ever go that route. I'm not set on ANYTHING tho, just seeing what all is out there.

Anyone know if stg 2.5 ls6 heads can be milled to 59cc.. and how that would work (if i were to go with forged pistons)? That with a 228R cam or torquer v2 what kind of numbers could i expect? with ported fast 90/90

fixinitup

iTrader: (6)

Im currently refreshening the stock bottom end due to a H/C/I upgrade on a 130K+ miles engine. Unless you have reason for doing so I wouldn't mess with it. All my crank/rod journals were rite on or no more than a .001" off and bearing wear was minimal. I decided to do rings b/c I had low compression in cylinder 5 and thought it was due to blowby and turned out to be valve seating on the head. To make a long story short these stock bottom ends were built right!

Thought about doing stroker also but figured I'd wait and see how it holds up with a 224/224 and LS6 heads/intake and possibly a small shot of the juice. I can let you know how it all comes out.

Red99TA

iTrader: (11)

I would leave the bottom end alone unless you're planning on over 550RWHP sometime in the future. H/C is the best bet IMO.

intake68

iTrader: (5)

I run Mamo ported AFR 205's milled to 59cc and a Mamo ported fast90/90 combo and a tiny 228R cam with 4.10's, LT's and all the rest of it. Last year I had a different 228 cam and an LS6 intake.

Now the car has torque everywhere, pulls hard to limiter at 6700 and I can lug around in 5th gear at 1000rpm with zero issues in traffic. I can not begin to describe the driveability that came along with the heads/intake/added compression. Do your homework and do not shoot for a number on a dyno. Look for a total package if you have the budget IMO.

Rossi396

iTrader: (1)

While we're on the subject of Mamo, I've talked to him about a potential H/C setup for my car several times. If you want a proven build, he's got the perfect one to mirror:

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article083/A-P1.htm

Rossi