El Torro is in ...............
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El Torro is in ............... .............BUT it has some issues. the thing WILL NOT idle on its own. Holds good oil pressure but under 1000 rpm it eventually dies when i let off the gas. i held it about 1-1500 rpm for about 7 - 10 min and it still wont idle. took it for a drive for a couple miles and had to hold both gas / brake at intersections. after returning home it began to sound like someone threw a sewing machine under my hood. its coming from the drivers side so hopefully its just a loose rocker. ill have to check it out tomorrow. as for the swap its self, me and my dad did it in the garage and wasnt that difficult at all. used the Crane Tool because the hand crank deal from oriellys i rented is a waste of time. I will have more info tomorrow.
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No not really, it is alot worse to drill a hole in the throttle body. Actually after you do a cam swap you need to open up the throttle body. You have to get the IAC counts back in range (40-80). I agree you should not drive the thing much, but if you have to drive it to the tuner and this is your only option, it is far from the worst thing to do. Just dont go WOT and dont let it idle too long. Don't want to risk washing down the cylinders and spinning a bearing.
If you do this dont go much over a full turn on the set screw. Also when finished turn off the ignition, unplug the TPS sensor. Turn on the ignition for 15-20 seconds. Turn off the ignition and plug your tps back in.
If you do this dont go much over a full turn on the set screw. Also when finished turn off the ignition, unplug the TPS sensor. Turn on the ignition for 15-20 seconds. Turn off the ignition and plug your tps back in.
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No not really, it is alot worse to drill a hole in the throttle body. Actually after you do a cam swap you need to open up the throttle body. You have to get the IAC counts back in range (40-80). I agree you should not drive the thing much, but if you have to drive it to the tuner and this is your only option, it is far from the worst thing to do. Just dont go WOT and dont let it idle too long. Don't want to risk washing down the cylinders and spinning a bearing.
If you do this dont go much over a full turn on the set screw. Also when finished turn off the ignition, unplug the TPS sensor. Turn on the ignition for 15-20 seconds. Turn off the ignition and plug your tps back in.
If you do this dont go much over a full turn on the set screw. Also when finished turn off the ignition, unplug the TPS sensor. Turn on the ignition for 15-20 seconds. Turn off the ignition and plug your tps back in.
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The tune on the car isnt a stock one if that mAtters. I'll take the valve cover off when I get home from work and see if I can find what's making noise. Then I'll post up what I find out and what the situation is. Thanks for the input so far.
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No not really, it is alot worse to drill a hole in the throttle body. Actually after you do a cam swap you need to open up the throttle body. You have to get the IAC counts back in range (40-80). I agree you should not drive the thing much, but if you have to drive it to the tuner and this is your only option, it is far from the worst thing to do. Just dont go WOT and dont let it idle too long. Don't want to risk washing down the cylinders and spinning a bearing.
If you do this dont go much over a full turn on the set screw. Also when finished turn off the ignition, unplug the TPS sensor. Turn on the ignition for 15-20 seconds. Turn off the ignition and plug your tps back in.
If you do this dont go much over a full turn on the set screw. Also when finished turn off the ignition, unplug the TPS sensor. Turn on the ignition for 15-20 seconds. Turn off the ignition and plug your tps back in.
accordring to several tuners is that you should drive it at all without a tune and with if you mess with teh screw it throws off the tune when you do get it tuned.
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ok i came home on my lunch break and took the valve cover off and found nothing. started the car again and no noise. idle was fine by itself. so what we are guessing is that it needs a little thicker oil. after it gets hot it begins to tick and car dies. sound logical ? Ill post an idle clip in a min once i get it off my phone.
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Uh thicker oil? Sounds more like too long of a pushrod, not letting the valve close once it gets hot and grows, or a valve sticking, or a resest valve. Seams like more then an oil viscosity issue to me. What kind of oil are you running?
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It only did it after it had been running for a while. Pushrods were what was recomened. 7.4 weren't enough I was told. 10-30 is what I use.
[QUOTE=TransAmcoupe98;11935011] I dont think this is true. I've been using my car as a DD for over 2 years and its got a few track times in her and she's still running strong. thats with stock heads and stock tune upgraded valvesprings comp cams 238/240 607/609 lift 90/90 setup. It dynoed @399/371 and runs 12's easily even after 2+yrs of USE. Could use driver mod Though.
BTW Car Sounds Great!
I am a little stunded it is running at all with the factory tune it it/QUOTE]
I agree, I wouldn't drive it too much without it being tuned tho...
I agree, I wouldn't drive it too much without it being tuned tho...
BTW Car Sounds Great!
