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Need help on ls1 buildup...

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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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Default Need help on ls1 buildup...

I am kind of new to this site and was looking for some info on a stock ls1 buildup...I currently have a stock ls1 out of a 99 trans am with high mileage and i have been spraying it for quite sometime and wanted to beef up the bottom end...If anyone could help with what kind of parts would be best for nitrous using the stock block...Thx alot...Any info would be much appreciated...
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 07:14 PM
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I was also doing some research at texas speed looking at rotating assemblies,if i went with the 4.0 hardened crankshaft and so on would it be worth it in a ls1 or should i just go shrtblock?
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 10:12 PM
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Whats your budget?
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 11:00 PM
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Tryin to spend no more then $2000.00...I was thinking of going with texas speeds rotating assembly.But people are telling me that there has to be some machine work and so on...Whats is your thought?Keep in mind i will be spraying it so any info you have would be very helpful...
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 12:29 AM
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keep your stock crank and get it polished, get clevite bearings, forged H beam rods and forged weisco or diamond pistons, ARP main/ head studs and spray a 150 shot on it safely...stick to a 347 because it will be the cheapest route...dont forget about the fuel system if your going to spray more
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 2stage
Tryin to spend no more then $2000.00...I was thinking of going with texas speeds rotating assembly.But people are telling me that there has to be some machine work and so on...Whats is your thought?Keep in mind i will be spraying it so any info you have would be very helpful...
For 2k I would get your block and crank cleaned up at a machine shop (hone cylinders and line hone main bearings W/ studs). New main and cam bearings, forged rods, pistons, oil pump, ls2 timing chain, lifters, head & main studs, and gaskets.
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 2stage
Tryin to spend no more then $2000.00...I was thinking of going with texas speeds rotating assembly.But people are telling me that there has to be some machine work and so on...Whats is your thought?Keep in mind i will be spraying it so any info you have would be very helpful...
That $2000 is going to get eaten up quick with machining and parts. To stay under $2000, you will probably have to go with the 347. You can get Probe forged pistons (pn:14217-003) for pretty cheap, and then a set of forged SCAT 6.125" I-beam rods (pn:26125716) for ~$300. Now this probably won't hold up to a 500 hit of nitrous, but it should be more than enough for what you're doing. The machining costs alone are going to eat up a good chunk of change, but it's necessary if you want a good reliable engine. Whatever cash you have left can be used for other stuff, like maybe a good oil pump or a set of rockers.

Just my $.02
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 01:58 PM
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Thx guys for all the help...Much appreciated...The car is pretty much done as of a ford 9" with 4.11's, turbo 400 with a trans brake and 4000 stall nitrous converter,nasty nates level 5 fuel system with replacement gas tank,fuel rails,and 83# injectors,full bmr adjustable suspension,ls6 intake,90mm throttle body,longtubes,texas speed true duel exhaust,harris speed works 2 stage nitrous kit,with standalone fuel system for nitrous just to give you guys alittle more info on the car...Right now dont have a ton of money to buy a new short block,so just wanna beef up the bottom end alittle to handle the spray...Keep in mind the block has 120,000 miles on it...I wenty to several speed shops to get block work done and for what they wanna charge i can get a new 408 shortblock from texas speed,just dont have the money for that right now....Do you guys think with the said above i should replace the crank also?
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 02:14 PM
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be better to build up a 6.0 iron block than the alum 5.7 block, the alum block has value if its still running. sell it, use funds to build a 6.0 based block with stock crank, u can build up to 375ci with stock crank. even the heads flow as well as 243, u can mille them down for more scr.

u can end up a 375ci ls2 head type motor
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 2stage
Thx guys for all the help...Much appreciated...The car is pretty much done as of a ford 9" with 4.11's, turbo 400 with a trans brake and 4000 stall nitrous converter,nasty nates level 5 fuel system with replacement gas tank,fuel rails,and 83# injectors,full bmr adjustable suspension,ls6 intake,90mm throttle body,longtubes,texas speed true duel exhaust,harris speed works 2 stage nitrous kit,with standalone fuel system for nitrous just to give you guys alittle more info on the car...Right now dont have a ton of money to buy a new short block,so just wanna beef up the bottom end alittle to handle the spray...Keep in mind the block has 120,000 miles on it...I wenty to several speed shops to get block work done and for what they wanna charge i can get a new 408 shortblock from texas speed,just dont have the money for that right now....Do you guys think with the said above i should replace the crank also?
With all the work, time and $$$ you have in the car I would save up another $1,000 or so and build your self a beast of a moter. How's the stock engine running now? Keep the go gas on the safe side and then buid a engine that you can handle what the rest of your car is capable of doing.
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 03:37 PM
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You know i have to say i agree with you...The motor was running fine and then i just noticed after a pass at the track the power was not there anymore,well after taking apart the top end i found 3 really bent pushrods.Just dont trust it anymore...Can i ask you if i purchased a gm 6.0L iron block from texas speed and built it as i go do you think it would be something i could do myself,i am handy for the most part,or would you go a different way?Thx for all the help..
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by conan
With all the work, time and $$$ you have in the car I would save up another $1,000 or so and build your self a beast of a moter. How's the stock engine running now? Keep the go gas on the safe side and then buid a engine that you can handle what the rest of your car is capable of doing.
i agree
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 2stage
You know i have to say i agree with you...The motor was running fine and then i just noticed after a pass at the track the power was not there anymore,well after taking apart the top end i found 3 really bent pushrods.Just dont trust it anymore...Can i ask you if i purchased a gm 6.0L iron block from texas speed and built it as i go do you think it would be something i could do myself,i am handy for the most part,or would you go a different way?Thx for all the help..
When I made up my mind to go forced induction I did alot of searching around for my bottom end... First I was going to use my original ls1 block that only has 28K on the clock and put in forged rods and pistons. Then after the cost of the pistons, rods, bearings, balancing of the crank and rotating assembly, main studs, ect I came up with a cost that was $550 cheaper than a forged SB from texas speed. So with that I decided to have the assembled SB sent to the front door, and I still have my original engine with 28k miles sitting on a stand just in case. So my vote is going to be save up some more $$$ and have your self a nice witer project of building your new engine and swaping it out in the car. As far as the old moter, Did the valves hit the pistons? If not throw in a set of hardened push rods and beat on it the rest of the summer if you have a new SB comming in the future. Also dont forget you will have at least $500 in small **** you will want to replace on any engine while you have it apart... Timing chain, lifters, oil pump, and even more if you throw a cam and heads at it. I know how you feel I have a money pit from hell and it's not even done yet, I started this 4 years ago and had it back on a dyno 2 months ago for more tuning after I had to upgrade even more things as money was available Some times it takes time but spend the money once and you'll be happy with the out come. I get a **** eating grin on my face every time I put the pedal to the floor, and that makes the wait even better.
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 07:58 PM
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I couldent agree with you more...Sounds like you have been there more then once like myself,just so many opinions on everything kind of hard to figure out the right option ya know....I think thats what i will do just save alittle more and go with a built shortblock from texas speed...Do you think the 6.0 iron block from texas speed would be a good nitrous motor?Dont wanna buy something and have to get alot of machine work done ya know...I only here good things from friends about ts so i guess its the way to go...All i would need is a heads and cam setup correct if i went with the shortblock?I already have the ls6 intake,90mm throttle body,nasty's fuel rails,83# injectors,ls6 ported oil pump new in box,ls2 timing chain new in box..Whatcha think?Anything else you wanna throw at me would be most helpful...Thx again..
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 2stage
I couldent agree with you more...Sounds like you have been there more then once like myself,just so many opinions on everything kind of hard to figure out the right option ya know....I think thats what i will do just save alittle more and go with a built shortblock from texas speed...Do you think the 6.0 iron block from texas speed would be a good nitrous motor?Dont wanna buy something and have to get alot of machine work done ya know...I only here good things from friends about ts so i guess its the way to go...All i would need is a heads and cam setup correct if i went with the shortblock?I already have the ls6 intake,90mm throttle body,nasty's fuel rails,83# injectors,ls6 ported oil pump new in box,ls2 timing chain new in box..Whatcha think?Anything else you wanna throw at me would be most helpful...Thx again..
Ya I think the 6.0L from TSP would do just fine. I have been beating my 347 for awhile now at 11 #'s of boost and I'm going to take it to 14-15 #'s soon. Just make sure you tell them exactly what you want to do with the engine. I think there are piston rings that take the NO2 better. Top that off with a nice head/cam and you'll have one bad engine. I would add new lifters, push rods, arp head studs, GM MLS head gaskets to your list. Then hit it with a 250-300 shot
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