Will it fit? Cam question...
Will it fit? Cam question... I have a set of LS6 heads milled .030 and can get a good deal on a 228/230 581/591 112 LSA +4. Do you think it will fit without piston to valve issues?
I REALLY do not want to pull a head to clay.
I REALLY do not want to pull a head to clay.
You do not need to pull the heads to check PTV clearance. You just need a checker spring, a dial indicator and a degree wheel. I think it will be pretty close, around .050-.070" clearance on the intake and maybe .100" on the exhaust. Always best to check it out though. If it was too close you could always retard the cam a few degrees, but that will give up some of your low end torque.
You do not need to pull the heads to check PTV clearance. You just need a checker spring, a dial indicator and a degree wheel. I think it will be pretty close, around .050-.070" clearance on the intake and maybe .100" on the exhaust. Always best to check it out though. If it was too close you could always retard the cam a few degrees, but that will give up some of your low end torque.
You can also do the trick with .080-.100" feeler gauges between the valve tip and rocker...at about 10º before and after TDC you'll want to check every degree for the tightest clearance. If you can still push the valve down any with a checker spring on there, with those feeler gauges in there taking up that space, in theory you'll have AT LEAST .080-.100" PtoV clearance. This saves you a couple bucks by not having to purchase a dial indicator with mounting provisions and all. Hope that helps!
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That's sound advise.
You can also do the trick with .080-.100" feeler gauges between the valve tip and rocker...at about 10º before and after TDC you'll want to check every degree for the tightest clearance. If you can still push the valve down any with a checker spring on there, with those feeler gauges in there taking up that space, in theory you'll have AT LEAST .080-.100" PtoV clearance. This saves you a couple bucks by not having to purchase a dial indicator with mounting provisions and all. Hope that helps!
You can also do the trick with .080-.100" feeler gauges between the valve tip and rocker...at about 10º before and after TDC you'll want to check every degree for the tightest clearance. If you can still push the valve down any with a checker spring on there, with those feeler gauges in there taking up that space, in theory you'll have AT LEAST .080-.100" PtoV clearance. This saves you a couple bucks by not having to purchase a dial indicator with mounting provisions and all. Hope that helps!
We use the same method.. Old hot rodders trick Works better than dial indicator in my opinion
You would want to use an adjustable pushrod and have the rocker torqued at zero lash. With the checker springs and the proper lenght pushrod you'll preload the valve with the light weight springs as opposed to preloading the lifter like you do normally.
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We use the same method.. Old hot rodders trick Works better than dial indicator in my opinion
You would want to use an adjustable pushrod and have the rocker torqued at zero lash. With the checker springs and the proper lenght pushrod you'll preload the valve with the light weight springs as opposed to preloading the lifter like you do normally.
You would want to use an adjustable pushrod and have the rocker torqued at zero lash. With the checker springs and the proper lenght pushrod you'll preload the valve with the light weight springs as opposed to preloading the lifter like you do normally.
That method doesn't really sit right with me personally. If the valve hits the piston, it'll preload the lifter and you may not even notice and think you have clearance. That and you don't actually have the load of the springs on the rockers, so .080-.100" would be excessive without deflection factored in. I like to use the indicator method myself. I think I had ~.060" on the intake valve with checker springs.