Whats a Good Cam for Roll Racing ?
08-04-2009, 10:57 AM
#21
None of you read my post. I said the mistake was to think the auto was BETTER for roll racing.
Have I walked M6s in my 3600 stalled car? yep
That's missing the point entirely. Mainly to clarify for the OP, I didn't mean your auto couldn't roll race... just trying to point out the obvious (or not obvious to some people) of why an auto isn't perhaps the best choice for the highway.
Have I walked M6s in my 3600 stalled car? yep
That's missing the point entirely. Mainly to clarify for the OP, I didn't mean your auto couldn't roll race... just trying to point out the obvious (or not obvious to some people) of why an auto isn't perhaps the best choice for the highway.
08-04-2009, 12:11 PM
#22
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ive used the search button and i really cant find a answer to my question.. ive considered 3 cams and after all the research ive concluded that these cam are not suited for Roll Racing Trex, MS3 , MS4 ive decided to go cam only while spraying a 150 shot
So Now for the Experts what in you opinion is a Cam that best suites Roll racing ?
So Now for the Experts what in you opinion is a Cam that best suites Roll racing ?
08-04-2009, 02:23 PM
#24
My vote will be the tq v3 from texas speed and their 5.3 heads 3.73 gears and a 36k stall. That with a good sixty would get you mid 11'sin the 1/4 power under the curve is what you want the most in roll racing. tq v3 has a nasty curve and its not that big but it makes good power and works well with spray. Huge cam is peaky you dont want that in a roll race.
08-04-2009, 03:51 PM
#25
The MS4 has been carefully designed by extensive engine dyno testing to make sure it's the ultimate all out LS camshaft available. That being said we need a good idea of what the verter flashes during these punches & then I can give you dyno data comparing bunches of different camshafts in exactly those rpm's. This way you can pick a camshaft that makes the best average power in the rpm your requesting. 
Let us know what it flashes during these punches & we'll go from there!!
Let us know what it flashes during these punches & we'll go from there!!
__________________
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
08-04-2009, 04:40 PM
#26
The MS4 has been carefully designed by extensive engine dyno testing to make sure it's the ultimate all out LS camshaft available. That being said we need a good idea of what the verter flashes during these punches & then I can give you dyno data comparing bunches of different camshafts in exactly those rpm's. This way you can pick a camshaft that makes the best average power in the rpm your requesting.
Let us know what it flashes during these punches & we'll go from there!!
Let us know what it flashes during these punches & we'll go from there!!
08-04-2009, 05:30 PM
#28
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It's all about the combination and the tune, but you will have certain speeds where your car will be good from a roll, and certain speeds where a M6 will have a definite advantage. Ideally, let's say you have a cam that comes on hard at about 3500. Your stall needs to match this rpm or be slightly higher. This is the best you can do; match the stall to the cam (as you should anyway). When you put it on the floor, it is going to drop down to 2nd or 3rd. When it drops down, your MPH and gearing (and tune) will determine what rpm you are at at this point. If you are at the sweet spot for your combo, it will pull hard. If it's at a slightly lower rpm than what your combo is set up for, it will not pull as hard right away. This is unlike a M6, where you can pick a gear to hit your sweet spot at any mph. This is why the M6 has the advantage (if he/she can drive it), but if you are smart about it you can hold your own.
08-04-2009, 07:07 PM
#29
It's all about the combination and the tune, If you are at the sweet spot for your combo, it will pull hard. If it's at a slightly lower rpm than what your combo is set up for, it will not pull as hard right away. This is unlike a M6, where you can pick a gear to hit your sweet spot at any mph. This is why the M6 has the advantage (if he/she can drive it), but if you are smart about it you can hold your own.
Well said! That is why i can walk an AFR head/G5X-3 cammed car at 40mph 2nd gear. the LG car will eventually pass me but the race is over by then.
Also, an MN6 car will jump from any A4 from a roll. The A4 will net better ETs on the track all day though
08-05-2009, 08:30 AM
#30
It's all about the combination and the tune, but you will have certain speeds where your car will be good from a roll, and certain speeds where a M6 will have a definite advantage. Ideally, let's say you have a cam that comes on hard at about 3500. Your stall needs to match this rpm or be slightly higher. This is the best you can do; match the stall to the cam (as you should anyway). When you put it on the floor, it is going to drop down to 2nd or 3rd. When it drops down, your MPH and gearing (and tune) will determine what rpm you are at at this point. If you are at the sweet spot for your combo, it will pull hard. If it's at a slightly lower rpm than what your combo is set up for, it will not pull as hard right away. This is unlike a M6, where you can pick a gear to hit your sweet spot at any mph. This is why the M6 has the advantage (if he/she can drive it), but if you are smart about it you can hold your own.
