I have LS7 lifters n i was wondering when you have zero lash how many turns do you want to get to 22ft.lbs. I just wanna c what measurement it needs to be and what mine would be with a little less then a 1 1/2 turns.

 

Wouldnt a torque wrench be more accurate than the # of turns?

 

Im talking about preload, I just wanna know after zero lash, what is the preload of your lifter for every turn of your rocker bolt.

 

Preload is determined by pushrod length in non adjustable rockers.
You measure preload accurately with a dial indicator.

 

Yea I just wanna no if my pushrods r the right length. With ls7 lifters is 1 1/2 turns to get to 22ft.lbs. good for preload.

 

If you have it at zero lash with the cam in the correct position, just put a dial indicator straight above the end of the pushrod, on top of the rocker and start turning the bolt. You'll see exactly how much preload you have.

 

Yeap, that is the way to do it.
Or get a p-rod checker and measure your length at 0 lash. Substract that from your p-rod length and there is your preload.

 

what would you recomend for ls7 lifters??PREDATOR-Z

 

i like around .020 preload-as i remember, i think they rec. no more than 2 turns after o lash, stock rocker setup
do this, run down the lash to where a .005 feeler gauge just fits, the loosen
it 1 turn, see what feeler gauge fits-the diff will tell you how many ths. each turn is-i used to know, but forgot-that is how i did my adj. comp rockers,
so i would know the preload-crank it down to zero, count the turns

 

Are you sure it will work this way, with the rockers being 1.7:1 ratio and measuring at the valve end? If they were 1 to 1, it would work right.

 

When the rocker arm assembly is properly torqued down into position, the pushrod must take up all the clearance and descend into the hydraulic lifter, causing the pushrod seat to move down by .020" to .060". The distance that the pushrod seat moves down away from the retaining lock is the "Lifter Preload". The hydraulic mechanism requires this precise amount of "preload" for it to do its job properly.

If clearance exists between the pushrod and the seat in the hydraulic lifter, after the rocker arm assembly has been torqued down, you will have no lifter preload. In this case the valve train will be noisy when the engine is running. All of the hydraulic force produced by the lifter will be exerted against the lifter's retaining lock, and this could cause the lock to fail. If the opposite occurs and the pushrod descends too far (more than .060"), then you have excessive lifter preload. In theory, a hydraulic lifter can pump up whatever preload you put into it.
Therefore with excessive preload, as the engine RPM and oil pressure increases, the hydraulic mechanism will pump-up the pushrod seat. This will cause the valve to be open longer and the lift to be higher. This will decrease the cylinder pressure, lowering the performance of the engine. If the preload is excessive it may cause "backfiring" from the engine.

There are several different methods for increasing or decreasing the amount of lifter preload, depending on valve train design and how the rocker arm is held onto the cylinder head. What may work on one year's engine may not work for another, even though they are basically the same engine. There is one method that universally works on all engines, change the pushrod length!

Many people mistakenly believe that hydraulic lifters must be soaked in oil overnight and be hand pumped up with a pushrod before installing into a new engine, however this is not necessary. In fact, this could cause the lifter to act as a "solid" and prevent obtaining proper preload. What is very necessary is the priming of the entire engine's oil system before starting up a new engine for the first time. This is done by turning the oil pump with a drill motor to force oil throughout the entire engine.

In order to adjust the preload, the lifter must be properly located on the base circle or "Heel" of the lobe. At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. You will need to watch the movement of the valves to determine which lifter is properly positioned for adjusting.
1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder that you are going to set the preload on.
2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)
3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)
4. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.

Make sure you know your tolerances something like a Comp "R" needs to be done when its warm it NEEDS adjustable rockers and it has a preload of .002 to .004 as to an LS7 lifter is between .066 to .097 depending on how quiet you want that valve train too be the deeper the number the quieter the valve train, and you don't need and adjustable valve train (rockers) to set them correctly. Do you see the differences in the amount of "space" u have to work with.

This is the right way of doing it.