What heads for drivability?
08-13-2009, 11:16 PM
#22
Adding that kind of quench will make your engine more susceptible to detonation. To get max power and max compression, you are better off to have the volume in the chamber or the dish of the piston. Large quench volumes don't give the fast burn you're after for efficient combustion.
08-14-2009, 08:39 AM
#23
I feel confident enough with my tuning ability's that I believe as long as I can get the compression under 12:1 that I could run on 93 octane. It has been done, I might have to keep a lap top in the car all the time but I'm already use to that.
08-14-2009, 10:47 AM
#25
The PRC 215 head is definately a great option for this thing. I think I have another great idea that should really help the bigger cube setup. The all new PRC 227cc heads are built with bigger runners & valves, but still keep the smaller chambers for guys running smaller bores. I'm running a set of the 227cc heads on our shop camaro & they really move some pretty nice air for small bore setup. Pricing on the 227cc heads will be right there at the same point as the 215 heads!!!
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Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
08-15-2009, 05:32 AM
#28
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i had a set of lpe cnc'ed ls6 heads and a mild cam as part of the lpe 383 package, i know if i would have just added the vrx5 cam i would have picked up some top end but nothing close to the 120rwhp and 70ft/lbs of tq by adding the tfs-tea 215 milled to 61 cc's 11.6 c/r. if you have the money get the tfs heads the torque curve they produce is a flat line..watch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAB1H4F5pvs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAB1H4F5pvs
08-15-2009, 11:33 AM
#29
I wont need to mill the heads much with my pistons a 62cc head is 11.3:1 compression.
Its not the money Im concerned with its bag for the buck in the drivability range with out having pathetic hp and torque. If the TFS heads will only gain me 5HP@ 2,800 rpm then they are not worth it. what I don't want is a car that runs like it has a big turbo, gutless then insane. I want smooth progressive power across the board. This car will see lots of road trips and some track time for fun, but other than that it will be in the garage. I hope to have HP and TQ in the mid 400's.
Its not the money Im concerned with its bag for the buck in the drivability range with out having pathetic hp and torque. If the TFS heads will only gain me 5HP@ 2,800 rpm then they are not worth it. what I don't want is a car that runs like it has a big turbo, gutless then insane. I want smooth progressive power across the board. This car will see lots of road trips and some track time for fun, but other than that it will be in the garage. I hope to have HP and TQ in the mid 400's.
Rule number one is to be totally honest with yourself and the vendor you are working with, and let your application determine what you should be building. Attention detail and selecting parts that are complimentary will get you much farther in the long run. As has been said many times before, combination is the key.
i had a set of lpe cnc'ed ls6 heads and a mild cam as part of the lpe 383 package, i know if i would have just added the vrx5 cam i would have picked up some top end but nothing close to the 120rwhp and 70ft/lbs of tq by adding the tfs-tea 215 milled to 61 cc's 11.6 c/r. if you have the money get the tfs heads the torque curve they produce is a flat line.
9secondsflat, can you give any details to the cam used in your previous setup?
08-15-2009, 07:23 PM
#32
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the lpe cam as part of their 383 package was a 207 220 571/578 on a 118.5 centerline...my new set up consists of the following: vengeance ported fast 92 intake, a vengeance ported ls2 t-body, a vengeance vrx5 cam 236-238 601 605 113 center line, kooks 1 3/4 headers- kooks 3x3 catted x pipe, corsa exhaust, ati underdrive, meziere electric pump, fast 36 injectors, tfs 215 from tea milled to 61 cc's- yella terra rockers.. everything installed and tuned by carmen at the vette doctors (btw i had the was given alot of bs from the vid from people saying the car cant dyno at that power so i had it put on a local DynoJet Dyno and it pulled 549 rwhp 487 rwtq...) they use a dyno dynamics set to sae...and it pulled 532/472. i was at the worcester, ma car day about amonth ago and ran from 30 -150 on the highway a new zr1 and ran side by side...two weeks later the owner aproached me at paul masse vetacular and asked if i had a blower or a bottle...he said the car was flat out and he could not pull me ...to be honest i had bfg drag radials on and they gave the car the kick and jump on every shift as opposed to spinning if i had my other wheels which have mich pilots...over the years i have pissed away over 100k on tweaking cars...and i can honestly say with out a doubt the tfs 215 heads milled to bump the c/r to the mid 11's along with a decent 230+ cam around 600 lift and a fast intake will destroy any afr or ls6 ported, milled, cnced head period...no issues no doubts...i will sit side by side with any 600cc bike and destroy them from 20-30 to 150 and if i get the jump on a liter bike they will catch hell trying to pass me....spend the money on tfs heads..buy the yella terra's and a fast 92..dont do it half ***...speed costs money do it right the first time...learn and listen to people who are running very fast times (quicker then me in the 9's like ECS, Vette Dr's, Vengeance Racing) and most of all DONT USE A ******* HACK TO DO YOUR WORK OR TUNE YOUR CAR!
08-15-2009, 07:48 PM
#33
Well I do all my own work and tuning so no problems there, if we didn't live on opposite coasts I would love to see your car, it sounds awesome! Im pretty sold on the TFS215's after seeing your videos. Ive owned other TFS heads and been impressed with them as well, actually the last 383 I built had them so I guess I should just keep a good thing going. I will enjoy taking this car to the track but most of the time I will use the car will be to go to the parts store or go on a road trip with my wife and baby so drivability is as important as AC to us, in case my wife has to drive or something. This will be the first car I have done that will not be a complete custom or complete race car. Do you have a cage in your vet?
08-16-2009, 03:31 AM
#37
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08-16-2009, 09:31 AM
#39
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08-16-2009, 01:14 PM
#40
Who says 383 cant make BIG power????
383 Engine Dyno-Results (graphs included)
Edit - thought this might add to the discussion as well
Competition TFS 215 vs new AFR 215 heads !!
I wonder when Tony will start posting information on these heads in the forum.
383 Engine Dyno-Results (graphs included)
Comp Cam’s custom grind solid mechanical street roller (242/248 .650 ish lift)
(Acts similar to a street friendly 234/240 hyd. grind....idles @ 900 with slight chop)
AFR 225 heads (PN 1630) milled to 65 cc’s (NOTE: Final CR only 11.0 to one!)
(Acts similar to a street friendly 234/240 hyd. grind....idles @ 900 with slight chop)
AFR 225 heads (PN 1630) milled to 65 cc’s (NOTE: Final CR only 11.0 to one!)
if you look back at my extensive post detailing all the data from the engine dyno testing of this exact engine, I actually pitted this solid roller against two similar hydraulic grinds, The smaller grind (a 234/238 stick) made only 15 less peak (and had a stronger bottom), but didnt carry nearly as well in the very high RPM's past peak HP....the larger of the two hydraulics, a 239/243 grind made within 8 HP of the solid roller, but lost considerable bottom end TQ and didnt carry as well upstairs either.
Bottom line here, I knew a solid would make good peak numbers, provide good area under the curve AND cleaner high RPM figures as well, not to mention be a LOT more reliable turning in the low/mid 7K range (due to perfect valve control....no floating with a hydraulic tappet) which is where I anticipated shifting this combination.
I would say that valve adjustment intervals with the quality of aftermarket components now available could go as long as 2-4000 miles depending on how you drive it and the quality of the valves and cylinder heads you are running. Adjusting these solids prior to going to the dyno this weekend took maybe one hour from the moment I loosened the first bolt and trust me that I was being "****" and taking my time trying to get them all exactly the same....I will do that a few time a year to reap the rewards a solid roller valvetrain can provide....plus its a good excuse to look and see how your valvetrain and springs are doing while you happen to be in there.
Bottom line here, I knew a solid would make good peak numbers, provide good area under the curve AND cleaner high RPM figures as well, not to mention be a LOT more reliable turning in the low/mid 7K range (due to perfect valve control....no floating with a hydraulic tappet) which is where I anticipated shifting this combination.
I would say that valve adjustment intervals with the quality of aftermarket components now available could go as long as 2-4000 miles depending on how you drive it and the quality of the valves and cylinder heads you are running. Adjusting these solids prior to going to the dyno this weekend took maybe one hour from the moment I loosened the first bolt and trust me that I was being "****" and taking my time trying to get them all exactly the same....I will do that a few time a year to reap the rewards a solid roller valvetrain can provide....plus its a good excuse to look and see how your valvetrain and springs are doing while you happen to be in there.
Competition TFS 215 vs new AFR 215 heads !!
I wonder when Tony will start posting information on these heads in the forum.
Last edited by hammertime; 08-16-2009 at 01:21 PM. Reason: Added info for AFR 215 heads