What heads for drivability?
Adding that kind of quench will make your engine more susceptible to detonation. To get max power and max compression, you are better off to have the volume in the chamber or the dish of the piston. Large quench volumes don't give the fast burn you're after for efficient combustion.
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
Last edited by camaropilot; Aug 14, 2009 at 03:18 PM.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAB1H4F5pvs
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Its not the money Im concerned with its bag for the buck in the drivability range with out having pathetic hp and torque. If the TFS heads will only gain me 5HP@ 2,800 rpm then they are not worth it. what I don't want is a car that runs like it has a big turbo, gutless then insane. I want smooth progressive power across the board. This car will see lots of road trips and some track time for fun, but other than that it will be in the garage. I hope to have HP and TQ in the mid 400's.
Rule number one is to be totally honest with yourself and the vendor you are working with, and let your application determine what you should be building. Attention detail and selecting parts that are complimentary will get you much farther in the long run. As has been said many times before, combination is the key.
9secondsflat, can you give any details to the cam used in your previous setup?
do you have a dyno sheet?
383 Engine Dyno-Results (graphs included)
(Acts similar to a street friendly 234/240 hyd. grind....idles @ 900 with slight chop)
AFR 225 heads (PN 1630) milled to 65 cc’s (NOTE: Final CR only 11.0 to one!)
Bottom line here, I knew a solid would make good peak numbers, provide good area under the curve AND cleaner high RPM figures as well, not to mention be a LOT more reliable turning in the low/mid 7K range (due to perfect valve control....no floating with a hydraulic tappet) which is where I anticipated shifting this combination.
I would say that valve adjustment intervals with the quality of aftermarket components now available could go as long as 2-4000 miles depending on how you drive it and the quality of the valves and cylinder heads you are running. Adjusting these solids prior to going to the dyno this weekend took maybe one hour from the moment I loosened the first bolt and trust me that I was being "****" and taking my time trying to get them all exactly the same....I will do that a few time a year to reap the rewards a solid roller valvetrain can provide....plus its a good excuse to look and see how your valvetrain and springs are doing while you happen to be in there.
Competition TFS 215 vs new AFR 215 heads !!
I wonder when Tony will start posting information on these heads in the forum.
Last edited by hammertime; Aug 16, 2009 at 01:21 PM. Reason: Added info for AFR 215 heads


