New forged LS6, what is the break in procedure?
New forged LS6, what is the break in procedure? *callies crank
*eagel rods
*diamond -8.6 boost/blower pistons
etc
i put 700 miles on the car so far , running GTX 10-40 oil i did one oil change at 300 miles and ill do another one soon 1,000 or so.
oil was spotless, no metal , nice and clean.
i hear the motor bearings break in pretty fast , with in 500 miles on dino oil, but the rings depending or what material they are made of, can take much longer.
I want to make sure the rings are fully broken it and seated befor the procharger goes on and car gets power tuned on the dyno for 14-15 PSI of boost.
I hear of new motors where they rings were not fully broken in and seated haveing blow by issues, i dont want this,
I also hear not to switch to synthetic till 3,000 miles , motor wont break in right on synthitic, But i have been hearing different things from different people. WHO KNOWS
let me know what you guys think and if any of this sounds right
TY for your help
*eagel rods
*diamond -8.6 boost/blower pistons
etc
i put 700 miles on the car so far , running GTX 10-40 oil i did one oil change at 300 miles and ill do another one soon 1,000 or so.
oil was spotless, no metal , nice and clean.
i hear the motor bearings break in pretty fast , with in 500 miles on dino oil, but the rings depending or what material they are made of, can take much longer.
I want to make sure the rings are fully broken it and seated befor the procharger goes on and car gets power tuned on the dyno for 14-15 PSI of boost.
I hear of new motors where they rings were not fully broken in and seated haveing blow by issues, i dont want this,
I also hear not to switch to synthetic till 3,000 miles , motor wont break in right on synthitic, But i have been hearing different things from different people. WHO KNOWS
let me know what you guys think and if any of this sounds right
TY for your help
Use dino oil, don't let the car idle for too long at once, don't stay in the same RPM range for too long either. And DON'T BABY IT (run it hard), you need high cylinder pressure to help the rings seat.
Edit: I just re-read and you already have 700 miles on it. Hopefully you ran it hard, it might be too late to save it now.
Edit: I just re-read and you already have 700 miles on it. Hopefully you ran it hard, it might be too late to save it now.
Save it??? , it runs perfect! no blow by, no oil buring, i dont believe in beating it to death the first 1,000 miles. my tuner set the rev limiter at 4,000rpm and i have done some pulls up to 4,000 rpm. runs nice
dont listen to that comment made. just take it easy till about 1000 miles then change oil i run conventional sae 30 wgt since engine has blowby but the rings are gapped for nitrous so ill have to deal with it,you will be fine.
If you gave it 75% throttle a few times within the first 30 miles or so you should be fine. I didnt say to beat it to death but you dont want to baby it. The most critical timeframe for seating rings is within the first 20-30 miles.
Trending Topics
I hate this subject... Everyone has a different opinion, and nobody ever totally agrees on the proper break in procedure (because in all honesty, there isn't one perfect break in procedure, there are many ways to do it and many theories and most of them will net you the same result in the end.) Most of the threads I've seen on the boards here just end up bickering back and forth on who's way is correct... Pointless.
Anyways, to the OP, here's the only things that you really need to know concerning the remainder of your break in procedure. Use conventional oil through the first 3k to 5k miles (Shell Rotella 15-40 used to be a good one but I think they lowered the zinc content on it, which is what you want. Another good one is Joe Gibbs break in oil). The other thing is to just simply vary RPM's/engine load.
That's it. That's all there is to it. Do it and you're motor should live a long, happy life (As long as it was built properly.)
If you want a detailed break in procedure, look up the one that SDPC (Scoggin Dickey) hands out with their new motors. It's about the best I've seen and the one that I follow.
Anyways, to the OP, here's the only things that you really need to know concerning the remainder of your break in procedure. Use conventional oil through the first 3k to 5k miles (Shell Rotella 15-40 used to be a good one but I think they lowered the zinc content on it, which is what you want. Another good one is Joe Gibbs break in oil). The other thing is to just simply vary RPM's/engine load.
That's it. That's all there is to it. Do it and you're motor should live a long, happy life (As long as it was built properly.)
If you want a detailed break in procedure, look up the one that SDPC (Scoggin Dickey) hands out with their new motors. It's about the best I've seen and the one that I follow.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Im in the middle of my 383 stroker build and contacted a reputable tuner today about 6 hours away from me who is going to be tuning my car. He said " tune it, start it up, get it hot check for leaks, anything that is going to break is going to break in first few runs. Put it on the dyno and give her hell. And this is from a well known sponsor and builder on this board.
