LSx Head Stud Install Tips/Info Needed.
LSx Head Stud Install Tips/Info Needed. I was planning on putting head studs on my LS1. The Engine is in the car but Im sure its possible to do it in the car. Is there a place that shows the correct procedure and are there any things I must do or look for during the process to make sure everything is good. I remember seeing some people who had issues with head studs causing coolant leaks. Not sure, any input is appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
Thanks
Mike
Make sure all the holes in the block are clean, blow them out with compressed air. Also use arp molly grease and arp torque spec with gm's torque sequence. I went through the seguence 3 times per head when torquing the nuts.
Studs are fairly easy to install. As stated above, make sure the holes are clean and use the lube ARP supplies on the threads. I've even used loctite before with no problems. When threading each stud into the block, you'll probably need to lock 2 nuts together and use the top to wrench down the stud until it bottoms out. DO NOT PUT TURN ANY FURTHER AFTER IT BOTTOMS OUT IN THE BLOCK. It only needs to be snug, not cranked down. I've seen guys punch holes in the block cranking them down in the holes.
After that, you're pretty much done. Slap your gaskets on, heads on, and then do your TQ in a 3 stage process. Use GM's sequence, but do not use their TQ specs. For studs, I go 35-55-85ft lbs, in that order. Then I let the motor sit for about an hour, and go back and hit them all one more time at 85ft lbs.
Done.
After that, you're pretty much done. Slap your gaskets on, heads on, and then do your TQ in a 3 stage process. Use GM's sequence, but do not use their TQ specs. For studs, I go 35-55-85ft lbs, in that order. Then I let the motor sit for about an hour, and go back and hit them all one more time at 85ft lbs.
Done.
So if for some reason I dont have the ARP lube, is there a good alternative like locktite? and maybe oil under the nut/washers on the head bolt surface? I also heard after initial torque, start and run the engine for a couple minutes, let cool for 2 hrs then torque again.
So if for some reason I dont have the ARP lube, is there a good alternative like locktite? and maybe oil under the nut/washers on the head bolt surface? I also heard after initial torque, start and run the engine for a couple minutes, let cool for 2 hrs then torque again.
ARP lube isn't a must, I hardly ever use it since they don't include them with the studs. I use red liquid loctite. Just make sure you wipe off the residue that squirts out of the holes.
As for running the engine, then re-TQ'ing. That is definitely not necessary, and would be a total pain in the ***. Since you can't get to all 5 bottom head bolts with the headers on, you'd have to remove the valve covers and headers again. Never done that, and never had a problem.
Usually they're good after the first initial sequence is done. However I'll get 1 or 2 bolts every now and then that'll budge another 1/16" when I go back for that last TQ an hour later.
As for running the engine, then re-TQ'ing. That is definitely not necessary, and would be a total pain in the ***. Since you can't get to all 5 bottom head bolts with the headers on, you'd have to remove the valve covers and headers again. Never done that, and never had a problem.
Usually they're good after the first initial sequence is done. However I'll get 1 or 2 bolts every now and then that'll budge another 1/16" when I go back for that last TQ an hour later.
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