I have been wanting a 224/224 581-112 or a 227 for a while....
and got a heck of a deal on a 230/224-575-563/ 111

Now I have heard "Many" say the love the 224 but wish they had went bigger... I also know I have helped with 2 224s and they have had no issues at all....

What concerns me is the 111 lsa.. being to low for a daily driver.

I am a person that will only go to the track twice a year if that,
but drive 150+ per week.

SO: with all of that said should I go with the 230 or try and trade it for a 224 or 227 on a 112 or 114??

All help apprecated, and all who are running the 230 please chime in

Thanks,

Pete

 

I do not drive mine EVERY day, but do drive it to work (90 mile round trip) 1-2 times per week in the warm months. With 4.10 gears and cartek clutch it feels ok on the street. It would be easier to drive with a more slippable, streetable clutch. If your personality lends you towards "I wish I had one bigger" AND if you plan to twist the motor up once in a while, then I would go with the 230/224. If the motor isn't going to see >=6500 rpm you may be better off with the smaller cam. With that being said, I'm happy with the 230 and would not trade down. For every time that I get caught in a parking lot chug-a-lug with the lope and the clutch, there is also time where I twist the thing up to 6600 rpm and go screaming along. To me it's a good balance.

 

I wouldn't go smaller than the TR230. I'm running the TSP231/237 on a daily driver just fine. But what's good for me is another man's hell. There are stealthy cams out there that perform just as well.

 

I daily drive my TSP231/237 without a problem, it is just all relative to what you can live with. One important thing I did notice is that you don't have headers listed in your sig... the stock exhaust manifolds will KILL you with that large of a cam and more especially with it being a reverse split duration.

 

232/238 111lsa in my daily driver. Runs and drives great with the right tuning.
Phillip

 

Ok,
I am feeling a little better. What kind of issues will I have on stock tune till I find someplace to tune it.. I am not sure if the predator will do what I need....

gomer
No I would not put that cam or almost any cam for that matter in without headers.

I am still in the parts pile build stage..
I will be doing duel springs of some sort, tita retains, new push rods, headers,plugs, wires and underdrive pully all at the same time.

thanks for all of the comments, please more post.

Pete

 

Just got done putting a 234/230 .578 112 in my daily driver along with cmotorsports ex616 dual springs with Ti retainers,Thunder CM pushrods with ASP pulley,LS6 intake, ported TB and Pacesetters all at the same time..... get edit before you do all of this and you after install headaches will go away...alot of the issues with the cam can be tuned out with edit so it wont affect the daily drivability....

 

Def. need tune right away. I needed a tune with my first, smaller cam (MTI C1) to get it to run right.
And yes, after going with that first cam I wished I had gone bigger- and did so!

 

killer01ws6: I drove my TR230 for a year before tuning. With the M6, you'll be ok. You might have to drill out the throttle blade hole a little and you might have to feather it every once in a while to keep from stalling, but it's not too bad.

 

Thanks Murdock,
and all the rest that have commented as well. I am hoping I can drive it untuned till james can have a shot at getting it worked out with the predator.

 

If you only go to the track two times a year, I'd skip that cam personally. I think the 230/224 reverse split is prone to give up a lot of torque under 4000rpms which is where you'll be driving 99.9 percent of you 150 miles a week.

I can understand wanting besides another 224 cam since you've had two.

What about a ~227/227 XE-R on a 113 LSA w/2 to 3 degrees advance? I think it will drive pretty nice and make better torque.

My 224 XE-R 113 LSA gained torque over stock from the start of the dyno pull up. 350rwtq at 2700 & 390rwtq at ~4000 rpm.

I've seen graphs with 230/224's that were making 350rwtq at 4000rpm.

 

What do you mean it gives up a lot of torque? I have this cam in my car. Granted everyones car is different, for example, on stock tunning, my A/F ration was almost perfect, 13:1 with no KR, no problem driving this cam daily. I'll post my dyno graph when I get home tonight, but I put down a very flat torque curve, over 300ft lbs at 2k rpm, and in the 350's/360's rwtq at 3krpm. Torque curve was very flat, and peaked at 377rwtq at 5,200 rpm's. This cam works great for me. I drive in rush-hour traffic everyday, with no problems, stock tuning too

 

if you look at a tr224 tq. curve overlaid on the tr230 curve they are very similar. the 230 just has a little bit more on the top end hp wise. check out my graph in the sig. the curve is very flat for a cam that can make 400rwhp on stock heads. i drive my car with this cam everyday and love it. it does idle pretty rough though, so you need a good tune.

 

Without the proper drivetrain to back it up, all this torque talk is moot.

 

the people with this cam saying stock tuning ran it like butter trips me out. mine was so pig rich it was almost undriveable. 11.6 afr.

 

Hey, everones car is different :dunno: I was as suprised as you were. I had a little issue with hot starts and surging, but once the car was moving, A/F was almost perfect. It was a 13:1, with the TR230 cam and headers and stock tuning. I had a TR224/224 cam in before this one, and only difference is i noticed this cam pulls a little harder up top. Other than that, driveability was the same. SouthFL.02.SS, what do you mean by having the 'prober drivetrain'? Again, everyones car is different, but my stock M6 with stock 3.42 gears, this cam puts down a lot of torque in the low/mid rpm range. I'm sure my car would like gears though, but I'm not havign any problem with what I got. The place I dyno'd at was having problems with there printer when I dyno'd, so as soon as I get a chance to go back, I'll get a dyno sheet printed out and scan it for you guys. I can ever get a sheet compaing my TR224 to my TR230. Only difference was the numbers peaked a little higher up top.....

 

The TR230/224 is fine for a daily driver. I used one with stock heads for the longest time and then later on with GTP stage 2 truck heads. The TR230 will not cause a loss in torque below 4k if tuned and setup properly. I posted a dyno graph in this thread comparing a few of the different TR cams. Take look here if you are interested:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/117510-who-has-back-back-dyno-graphs-cam-swaps.html

My idle was still set at the stock rpm value and I didn't need to drill out the TB anymore. It was, however, drilled out from the previous cams.

I would recommend 4:10s for this cam with a 6-speed, but you can get by with 3.42s. 4:10s are by far the best mod you can do to a M6, so this kinda goes without saying. lol

Jason

 

I was going to post a I will trade you a 230/224 for your 224/224 thread today.... but after reading all of this I think I am going to put her in in late dec to early Jan.. Thanks guys

 

Most all of you guys have M6's..
How bout us A4 guy's? I drive my car approx. 150 miles per day, 5 days per week.
Been to the track once. What in your opinion would be the proper set up for my car? TIA...
Matt.
BTW, i will be upgrading to 342 gears & a 3200 stall Tq conv. prior to the cam.

 

a 224/224 581 on a 114 would do you nicely