Temp. gauge hits 260 after driving for 2 blocks??
10-15-2009 | 03:00 PM
#21
The sensor is on the front of DS head.
If you have access to a temp gun shoot the sensor and check the temp there........ You can also test the resistance on the sensor but off the top of my head not sure what it should be....
If you have access to a temp gun shoot the sensor and check the temp there........ You can also test the resistance on the sensor but off the top of my head not sure what it should be....
10-15-2009 | 03:06 PM
#23
So ermmm, THE DAYM PROBLEM IS BACK!!!!!
I'm actually convinced that its a sensor, I Hit 260* then 5 Sec later its back at 210*. No over flowing, no bubbling, not change in over all mechanical behavior...so um..., wheres the Temp Sensor? And werent there known issues with the temp gauge in the 2002's?
I'm actually convinced that its a sensor, I Hit 260* then 5 Sec later its back at 210*. No over flowing, no bubbling, not change in over all mechanical behavior...so um..., wheres the Temp Sensor? And werent there known issues with the temp gauge in the 2002's?
Its very easy to confirm. When you see it go to 260*...stop the car, pop the hood and see if you can keep your hand on your intake, lid or strut tower. If you can.....you're temps are just fine and your sensor is bad. If you can't keep your hand on your intake for more than 1 second....its really getting hot.
$16.00...change it.
.
10-15-2009 | 03:12 PM
#24
Check the coolant temp sensor. I had the same problem when I broke mine changing plugs, it would go to 260 in less than a block. The car ran like **** and the engine light would be on.
10-15-2009 | 03:30 PM
#25
I blame this on your A/C condenser like stated before... it's probably really clogged with a bunch of crap. Clean it and tell us what happens then. Apparently an A/C condenser has done this to forum members cars on numerous occasions. They cleaned it then all was fine... be prepared, it's tedious cleaning out all those little fins...
10-15-2009 | 03:32 PM
#26
Its your sensor.
Its very easy to confirm. When you see it go to 260*...stop the car, pop the hood and see if you can keep your hand on your intake, lid or strut tower. If you can.....you're temps are just fine and your sensor is bad. If you can't keep your hand on your intake for more than 1 second....its really getting hot.
$16.00...change it.
.
Its very easy to confirm. When you see it go to 260*...stop the car, pop the hood and see if you can keep your hand on your intake, lid or strut tower. If you can.....you're temps are just fine and your sensor is bad. If you can't keep your hand on your intake for more than 1 second....its really getting hot.
$16.00...change it.
.
10-23-2009 | 08:01 PM
#28
Those must be the two longest blocks in the world. The boiling point of water(or freon for that matter) is raised if the liquid is under pressure(no air in the system). Did you watch the water temp PID on a scan tool instead of just your dash gauge? If you can afford a C5 or C6 you should be able to spring for a decent scan tool that will do the generic OBDII PIDs. This is more accurate than your dash gauge. You can measure the resistance of your ECT sensor using a DVOM. You can also put it in boiling water and watch for the resistance to change. The most accurate way is to monitor the voltage output(ECM works on voltage not resistance) while the engine warms up and goes into closed loop. You should see the voltage gradually change as the engine gets warmer and finally reaches normal operating termerature and goes into closed loop. If you didn't see steam that should tell you your were NOT really at 260F in two blocks. That points to a faulty gauge value.
