valve train noise
#1
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valve train noise
I just put a MTI C1 cam in my car (222/222 566/566 112 lsa) with there stage two heads. Really got some valve train noise coming from it. It seems to be running ok and has a great sound out the back but under the hood it has quite abit of noise wish I could describe it all I can say is it sounds like valve train noise?
#2
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Valvetrain noise is pretty normal. I hate to say that because I have not heard yours in particular, but I can say that my Z06 and every Z06 I have ever driven had a lot of valvetrain noise. It is just the nature of running a high-lift cam.
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Really wish I could describe the noise its not ticking but it is coming from the valve train. I have the stock rr's and had to put some clearance in them because the were hitting the retainers the first time i tried it them got alot quieter but now has a sound Im not use to pushrods are 7.370 cuz the heads are cut 30. car has good oil pressure about 42 at idle and the rr are torque down to spec. as soon as I get those damn transmission lines to stop leaking at the trans. Im going to let it idle for alittle and see if it will quiten down alittle more. Maybe it is normal and Im just paranoid.
#5
That's true. Mine did the same thing. It may quiet down some but it will never be totally quiet. The C1 has pretty quick ramps which doesn't help the noise issue much.
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That is another reason I'm going with someone's fully adjustable rockers, so I can adjust the valve train properly.
Here is a great test to determine is your geometry is good: Take a torque wrench and a 22 mm socket and see how many ft/lbs it takes to rotate it it over. Then go to a bone stock car and see how many ft/lbs it takes.
"Gee Mom now I wonder why my heads/cam car dynos under 400rwhp!" =P
Here is a great test to determine is your geometry is good: Take a torque wrench and a 22 mm socket and see how many ft/lbs it takes to rotate it it over. Then go to a bone stock car and see how many ft/lbs it takes.
"Gee Mom now I wonder why my heads/cam car dynos under 400rwhp!" =P
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Has anyone had a problem with the stock RR hitting the retainers in this application. the stage 2 heads from MTI has titanium retainers with the double springs? saw some where when looking for info one this where they grind the stock rocker for clearance. Thanks for everyones reply.
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#10
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Testing valve train geometry?
Originally Posted by masterdill
That is another reason I'm going with someone's fully adjustable rockers, so I can adjust the valve train properly.
Here is a great test to determine is your geometry is good: Take a torque wrench and a 22 mm socket and see how many ft/lbs it takes to rotate it it over. Then go to a bone stock car and see how many ft/lbs it takes.
"Gee Mom now I wonder why my heads/cam car dynos under 400rwhp!" =P
Here is a great test to determine is your geometry is good: Take a torque wrench and a 22 mm socket and see how many ft/lbs it takes to rotate it it over. Then go to a bone stock car and see how many ft/lbs it takes.
"Gee Mom now I wonder why my heads/cam car dynos under 400rwhp!" =P
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What Cal said how much preload you got when tq'ing them? You can get some aftermarket rockers like the yt's that will quiet it down some but some people are having issues with the Yella Terra's so run a search to make sure you arent using any of the same parts that they were.
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Rockers hitting retainers is not normal. My very first set of heads did that because they had old style(non LS1 valve stem size) retainers. I had to use lash caps with pedestal shims under the rockers and I believe I used my 7.40 Comp pushrods. We tried clearanceing the rockers first but they still hit the retainers. Clearancing or grinding on the rocker arms will weaken them and over time they will flex even more than they probably do now.
At this point you could try a different rocker arm. I have heard some of the aftermarket rockers have plenty of clearance.
At this point you could try a different rocker arm. I have heard some of the aftermarket rockers have plenty of clearance.