blown head gasket ????
blown head gasket ???? I'm fixing a 99 tahoe with a blown head gasket. I have no issues fixing the blown head gasket but wanted to know if the head bolts are torque-to-yield style and need to be replaced after torqueing down before I start working on it? I kinda like to have all the necessary parts/gasket before I tear anything down.
I'm fixing a 99 tahoe with a blown head gasket. I have no issues fixing the blown head gasket but wanted to know if the head bolts are torque-to-yield style and need to be replaced after torqueing down before I start working on it? I kinda like to have all the necessary parts/gasket before I tear anything down.
Need some more help! I fixed the the head gasket and have everything together but it won't start. I thought maybe I had the dist. 180 out but I checked by pulling out the #1 cylinder plug and having someone bump the motor over until I felt it blow off my finger. Then check the dist. and it was close to the #1 wire on the cap??????? Theres no way to set the timing, the haynes manuel I have says that it adjusts itself. I have compression, added some gas and have spark. Should run right? Any ideas? It doesnt even kick or come close to running.
Need some more help! I fixed the the head gasket and have everything together but it won't start. I thought maybe I had the dist. 180 out but I checked by pulling out the #1 cylinder plug and having someone bump the motor over until I felt it blow off my finger. Then check the dist. and it was close to the #1 wire on the cap??????? Theres no way to set the timing, the haynes manuel I have says that it adjusts itself. I have compression, added some gas and have spark. Should run right? Any ideas? It doesnt even kick or come close to running.
i originally thought you meant ls motor. incorrectly installed dist. will cause it to not start even if u have spark and fuel psi
It not my truck but it is a 5.7 not sure on vortec. I was 100% sure the dist. was in right but figured it wouldn't hurt anything to pull it out and try it 180 the other way. But nothing again. So I put it back the I feel is right.
I pulled a plug and grounded it out. It sparked just like it should, so I know its got spark. Just put 5 gallons of gas in it but haven't confirmed that its getting to the motor. Ill pull the line off the intake tomorrow morning, but I find it hard to believe thats the issue because it ran and drove itself to where its sitting now. Theres got to be some trick or simple I missed, any ideas?
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Need some more help! I fixed the the head gasket and have everything together but it won't start. I thought maybe I had the dist. 180 out but I checked by pulling out the #1 cylinder plug and having someone bump the motor over until I felt it blow off my finger. Then check the dist. and it was close to the #1 wire on the cap??????? Theres no way to set the timing, the haynes manuel I have says that it adjusts itself. I have compression, added some gas and have spark. Should run right? Any ideas? It doesnt even kick or come close to running.
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Verdad Gallardo Well that sucks. So once the #1 cylinder blows off my finger the dist should be facing 180 from the #1 terminal on the cap. Where can I get one of those scanners? Is it something that I can rent from autozone or silimar place?
Pretty much look under the cap the rotor throws the fire to the terminal then it travels across the top of the cap to the #1 post. Your going to have to get a hold of a real scan tool not one of those code readers at AutoZone. If you get the distributor lined out the truck will run but it will trip a ses light till you do a cam sync. You might be better off to get everything lined out then run it by a shop and have them do it. It can be done in about 1min but it cant be done without a scan tool.
Pretty much look under the cap the rotor throws the fire to the terminal then it travels across the top of the cap to the #1 post. Your going to have to get a hold of a real scan tool not one of those code readers at AutoZone. If you get the distributor lined out the truck will run but it will trip a ses light till you do a cam sync. You might be better off to get everything lined out then run it by a shop and have them do it. It can be done in about 1min but it cant be done without a scan tool.
OK got you on the dist cap. I thought I did that but will double check in the a.m. Can I just turn the dist. little by little until it runs cause I tried with the cap both ways and still got nothing? I have someone that has a real scan tool but I need to get it to him and theres no way of pushing that truck on a trailer. So I need it running somewhat.
another thing there is a number 8 casted into the dist that will help you get it in the ball park.. i did what your doing then i finally looked up on gmdealer world and found it out, set it up and fired right up..
ill look it up and post the steps out of gm dealerworld for you..
ill look it up and post the steps out of gm dealerworld for you..
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Joined: Oct 2009
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Yes! You need to look down at the dist there should be an 8 just on the inside of dist. some times there will alsobe a 6. These are the line up point for the rotor. Also you might want to double check your wires.
Bring cylinder number one piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke.
Remove the distributor cap bolts and discard.
Remove the distributor cap.
Install a NEW distributor gasket onto the distributor.
Align the indent hole on the driven gear with the paint mark on the distributor housing.
Ensure that the distributor rotor segment points to the cap hold area.
Align the slotted tang in the oil pump driveshaft with the distributor driveshaft. Rotate the oil pump driveshaft with a screwdriver if necessary.
Align the flat (1) in the distributor housing toward the front of the engine.
Install the distributor and distributor clamp.
Once the distributor is fully seated, align the distributor rotor segment with the number 8 pointer that is cast into the distributor base.
If the distributor rotor segment does not come within a few degrees of the number 8 pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor and camshaft may be off a tooth or more. Repeat the procedure in order to achieve proper alignment.
Install the distributor clamp bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
Install the distributor cap onto the distributor.
Install the NEW distributor cap bolts.
Do not overtighten the NEW distributor cap bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the distributor cap bolts to 2.4 N·m (21 lb in).
Install the ignition coil wire harness.
Remove the distributor cap bolts and discard.
Remove the distributor cap.
Install a NEW distributor gasket onto the distributor.
Align the indent hole on the driven gear with the paint mark on the distributor housing.
Ensure that the distributor rotor segment points to the cap hold area.
Align the slotted tang in the oil pump driveshaft with the distributor driveshaft. Rotate the oil pump driveshaft with a screwdriver if necessary.
Align the flat (1) in the distributor housing toward the front of the engine.
Install the distributor and distributor clamp.
Once the distributor is fully seated, align the distributor rotor segment with the number 8 pointer that is cast into the distributor base.
If the distributor rotor segment does not come within a few degrees of the number 8 pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor and camshaft may be off a tooth or more. Repeat the procedure in order to achieve proper alignment.
Install the distributor clamp bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
Install the distributor cap onto the distributor.
Install the NEW distributor cap bolts.
Do not overtighten the NEW distributor cap bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the distributor cap bolts to 2.4 N·m (21 lb in).
Install the ignition coil wire harness.