LOL, I wish that was me! I liked what it stood for, so I've been using it for a while.

And yes, those cars are sick!!

 

I already said that there were no misfiring cylinders.

 

Ok, I'm confused again, and I'm sure it's something simple that I just can't wrap my head around.

Finally got some time for me and the car's owner to hook up so I would work on it for a minute. I borrowed a dial indicator and all the goodstuff to see how much preload I was getting on the lifters.

Number 1 cyl at TDC(camshaft and crankshaft dots lined up...), put in the two pushrods and the two rockers, hand tightened the bolt down till I could turn it no more by finger, "zero lash", pushrod can't spin anymore, etc. Set up the dial indicator and began to tighten the bolt with a tq wrench.

Indicator moved a little bit, then the valve spring started compressing for almost 2 full turns of the wrench before it got to where it would tq... I don't recall this happening when the engine was first assembled, I would hope I would have noticed it, that and the two other people standing around me....

This car makes me want to

 

7.5 push rods sounded too long from the start. Do you have an adjustable pushrod so you can find the correct lenght? Also, what thickness HG is installed?

 

That's probably because at the time of installation there was less or no oil in the lifters. Also just because you're dot to dot doesn't necessarily mean you're completely on the base circle of the cam, you may actually be starting to get a touch of lift at the point. Reverse the rotation a little and see how that works. Compression of the valve spring for 2 full turns at the point does sound a little excessive so as many have said, verify the cam with a degree wheel.

Trick flows have a thicker deck than GM castings and typically require a longer pushrod than regular GM stuff. However verifying pushrod length on every setup is always important.

 

Ok, I know it's been a while but got a chance to spend a few minutes on the thing. I got a pushrod checker and was checking them out..

Rotate clockwise until intake valve closes and exhaust begins to open. Stop there, put in checker, tq rocker down, extend checker to zero lash.

Measure checker, 7 7/16, or 7.437. Add about .050, gives 7.487. The 7.500's should be sufficient.

I did this on an exhaust as well, rotating until the intake just begins to close and checking it there....

Don't have the tools or the parts to degree the cam so I'm going to reassmble the top end and run a compression test to see what we get there...

 

You need to check the exhaust when the intake is closing...

Shane

 

Yikes, multitasking owns me! I measured it that way but sure didn't write it that way Thanks, I'll change the phrasing now.

 

Were you using a solid lifter when checking theh PR length?

 

No, the engine is already assembled and has been run.