OIL - 5w30 or 10w30 ?????????? -- Slick 50
#21
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Ok guys... I know GM recommends the 5w30. But awhile back prior to my engine build I had switched to 10w30 as per recommendation on here (I was still stock at the time).
I'm due for an oil change and was curious what you guys think? Now that I'm no longer stock and have a higher performing engine. What's gonna be the difference between the two?
I'm a die hard Mobil 1 guy.... so no changing my mind there. But I was also thinking of putting a treatment of Slick 50 in it as well. Been a pretty big believer of that stuff.
This car will be driven mostly in the southern california area... with the occasional trip to phoenix, az...
I drive it maybe once a week... usually putt around, but absolutely romp into it every once in a while. It's a street car so I drive it like one
thoughts?
I'm due for an oil change and was curious what you guys think? Now that I'm no longer stock and have a higher performing engine. What's gonna be the difference between the two?
I'm a die hard Mobil 1 guy.... so no changing my mind there. But I was also thinking of putting a treatment of Slick 50 in it as well. Been a pretty big believer of that stuff.
This car will be driven mostly in the southern california area... with the occasional trip to phoenix, az...
I drive it maybe once a week... usually putt around, but absolutely romp into it every once in a while. It's a street car so I drive it like one
thoughts?
But I would recommend you switch to GC 0w30 and be done with it.
#22
i have been useing m1 full syn 5/30 for 62000 miles. when i modded my car at 62000 mi i had to change the viscosity of the mobil1 oil from 5/30 to 10/40 full synthetic. i had alot of lifter tick with the 5w30. and with the 10w40 i have seen a quite engine. no lifter tick. when the 10w40 gets around 3000 miles on it i will start hearing the tick.
i have been running the 10w40 for 27000 miles and no problems. but i live in oklahoma where yesterday it was 90* with a heat index of 101. and got up this morning to a 49* temp. just love this state.
i have been running the 10w40 for 27000 miles and no problems. but i live in oklahoma where yesterday it was 90* with a heat index of 101. and got up this morning to a 49* temp. just love this state.
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Matt Vardaman (03-12-2020)
#25
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...We do not recommend adding engine oil additives to any lubricant. The additives in an oil are carefully balanced and the addition of other additives can de-stabilize the oil and cause additives to drop–out of solution. Adding ANY additive to a conventional oil will not produce an oil with the kind of protection that Mobil 1 provides .
You can read more about Slick 50 here: http://www.skepdic.com/slick50.html
#26
Detergents are essentially pointless since the oil filters of today do such a good job... If you're worried about it leaving residue or whatever, run a bottle of seafoam or Gunk engine cleaner before changing the oil. I wouldnt recommend doing that every 12k miles vs every oil change, though.
#27
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After looking again Valvoline carries three different types (not weights) of VR1 racing oils
Conventional (Non synthetic) VR1
Synthetic VR1
Not For Street Use (full race)
It seems the full race is the only non detergent type and also has a 1% higher concentration of the ZDDP package compared with the other 2.
Conventional (Non synthetic) VR1
Synthetic VR1
Not For Street Use (full race)
It seems the full race is the only non detergent type and also has a 1% higher concentration of the ZDDP package compared with the other 2.
#28
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ZMAX............. hahahah
I love it when guys buy this garbage and think all this snake oil will make there engine last forever.....
Take a look at this
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.shtm
#29
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Detergents are essentially pointless since the oil filters of today do such a good job... If you're worried about it leaving residue or whatever, run a bottle of seafoam or Gunk engine cleaner before changing the oil. I wouldnt recommend doing that every 12k miles vs every oil change, though.
#31
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I use Mobil one european blend 0w-40. This last oil change though I used 3 quarts of the 0w-40 and 2 quarts of 5w-40 M1 diesel synthetic since it has more phosphorus and zinc because its diesel oil isn't regulated down to 800ppm like gasoline oil is. Most diesels syn oils have 1200ppm. I see 70 cold psi and 30 warm psi idle and 60psi at cruise warm. I had a slight lifter noise too that is albeit completely gone after switching from Royal Purple to M1. I loved the RP so I'm not saying I switched cuz it was bad just because I wanted to. I think this next time I am going to use either Amsoil 5w-40 syn diesel, or go back to my mix of M1 0w-40 gas and 5w-40 diesel.