Name these parts!
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From: Round Rock, Texas
Name these parts! I have a 1989 formula with a cammed LQ9 swap, ever since i got it, the car doesn't feel "right". It also only put down 289rwhp, and what i was told 360rwtq on the first dyno run.
Combo is a LQ9
-Stock 317 heads
-stock block and rotating assembly
-XER281HR 281/283 .595/.598 113+3 cam
-Comp 921 springs
-Titanium retainers
-Comp R lifters
-Stock? pushrods
-LS6 intake
-Shorty headers
-True duals
-Stage II 4l60E
-Yank ST2800
What does this top end look like to you?
My only thought for the low power is that the tune is either WAY off, the parts in it are not the parts I was lead to believe, or, God hates me.
I know dynos are a tuning device, but when it is 289 vs 330+ for stock bolt on guys, something is a miss.
Thanks!
Combo is a LQ9
-Stock 317 heads
-stock block and rotating assembly
-XER281HR 281/283 .595/.598 113+3 cam
-Comp 921 springs
-Titanium retainers
-Comp R lifters
-Stock? pushrods
-LS6 intake
-Shorty headers
-True duals
-Stage II 4l60E
-Yank ST2800
What does this top end look like to you?
My only thought for the low power is that the tune is either WAY off, the parts in it are not the parts I was lead to believe, or, God hates me.
I know dynos are a tuning device, but when it is 289 vs 330+ for stock bolt on guys, something is a miss.
Thanks!
God hates you.....
LOL j/k Have you had somebody check into the tune and see if thats off? Also Id lose those Shorty headers...they arent hurting THAT bad, but they arent helping either
LOL j/k Have you had somebody check into the tune and see if thats off? Also Id lose those Shorty headers...they arent hurting THAT bad, but they arent helping either
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Tune is definitely going to be the first to go, it's not quite like I want anyhow, right now the O2 on the pass. side pipe shorted on the firewall. So it's torn apart in the garage getting some work done. Honestly to me, the tune feels like it was done to just "get the damn thing out of the shop".
Shifts only seem firm under WOT, and feel rather stock for a "tuned" car under normal driving. It also seems to have a hard time idling after quick stops, and doesn't feel very responsive. I was told they were only able to add 22* or less of timing before it started detonating. I'm going to see if I can have the local club help me out soon, and see if their HP tuner's gurus can spot anything wrong.
Shifts only seem firm under WOT, and feel rather stock for a "tuned" car under normal driving. It also seems to have a hard time idling after quick stops, and doesn't feel very responsive. I was told they were only able to add 22* or less of timing before it started detonating. I'm going to see if I can have the local club help me out soon, and see if their HP tuner's gurus can spot anything wrong.
Those do appear to be comp springs and stock pushrods. I would upgrade the pushrods just for piece of mind(this may or may not add a few HP up top if the stockers are flexing). The o2 sensors need to be in good working order for your fueling to be right, so this can be most of the problem. I would also recommend that you check fuel pressure at idle and under load to verify the pump is doing it's job.
Pushrods being stock length not just being stock could be hurting you. There was a guy on the board not long ago that had his retainers installed wrong causing massive amounts of blow-by and about a 50rwhp loss. Those look like 921's to me in that pic with stock roller rocker arms. Your tune does sound off the way your describing it. Definately get the tune looked at first. Then if it still does it then you have other problems or god just hates you lol
sounds like mismatched parts and incorrect tune.
what is the duration @.050 and what is the scr.?
sounds like someone threw a long duration cam, without milling the heads, incorrect pr length, incorrectly installed cam, incorrect tune. or a combination of all the above.
what is the duration @.050 and what is the scr.?
sounds like someone threw a long duration cam, without milling the heads, incorrect pr length, incorrectly installed cam, incorrect tune. or a combination of all the above.
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Duration is 232/234, It is basically a torquer v2 cam. Stock heads, no milling, stock size gasket, unsure of SCR, but like I said the motor is stock other than the top end parts and cam. I also have what appears to be stock LS1 injectors...
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did u ever verify to see if its a true lq9?
lq4 and lq9 oth use 317, but diff. pistons. the diff in pistons equal .6 of scr.
enuff to make a significant difference. a lack in scr would make sense along with incorrect tune and cam off a tooth. that engine, with that cam even with the shorty headers should be over 450bhp+, easily!!
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Sounds like you and I suspect the same thing lol
Where would the block number be on this motor? As far as the cam, only way to tell is rip the motor apart correct?
Where would the block number be on this motor? As far as the cam, only way to tell is rip the motor apart correct?
If you can get your hands on a borescope you can pull one of the plugs and see if the pistons are flat top(LQ9) or dished(LQ4). I've seen people post that they can see inside the plug hole with a flashlight well enough to tell the difference, but I have my doubts about that method.
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sounds like it would be worth a try, I really don't want to have to tear it down again. If the cam was installed that far off, wouldn't there be some valve to piston action going on? Or would it only take a single tooth to lose almost 100rwhp?
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Would I be able to measure lift at the spring with one of those electronic calipers? I am thinking about tearing off the front half and trying to identify it, but that could be a big hassle for nothing. It certainly idles rough, and rocks the car side to side..and the idle is set at about 900-950 in gear.
Hard to hear, but just for reference:
Hard to hear, but just for reference:
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Well I replaced the O2, It had become so frayed that 2 wires were shorted out together. That ought to make the motor happy. The exhaust is almost back together and I can fire it up. Hopefully it will be right back to burning the tires off at 60 again.
Also, is it possible to manually adjust idle speed a tad bit without getting involved with HP tuners? I would like to drop idle another 75-100rpm if possible.
Also, is it possible to manually adjust idle speed a tad bit without getting involved with HP tuners? I would like to drop idle another 75-100rpm if possible.