i search top end hp and couldnt find anything so if anyone can help, please, im all eyes.

ive noticed in many videos that on highway pulls we ls1`sstruggle a lil against the turbos because we top out so early and they are strong up top.
im looking at doing some upgrades to my performance but not sure on the path i should choose(not nos if possilbe). im at 325whp and 336tq with longtube hearders, intake and ***** exhaust(deal with a more open flow later).
i start loosing a good amount of power at 6k and im wanting to have it hold strong till 7k, heard it was def possible.

so main objective: extend the redline a little and increase top end power for highway pulls 100+

 

Cam and springs! Stock ls1 springs are known for valve float above 6000rpm my car did that to. If you dont want to do a cam swap you could use ls6 springs cheap easy and will help your car rev up better but if you want to go to 7000rpm then you would def need a cam

 

Turning 7000 rpm is not something to be taken on without a lot of thought and durable parts. You should consider installing new heads and a cam (with good springs). This will greatly improve your power at 6000 or better but will come at a loss of some low end torque. If you really want to turn 7000+ you should really consider using forged pistons, crank and rods. None of these are cheap or easy to install. A head/cam combo can get you good power in the mid to upper 6000 range and a significant boost over your stock pieces.

Any reason why you are avoiding N2O? Lots easier to install, and less money, than a head/cam swap.

 

You will need atleast a fast90 intake as the LS6 intake hits a wall around much above 6200rpm. Fast intake, good heads, pretty decent sized cam something with a IVC point of 50 + would help. Don't forget some decent rod bolts.

 

thanks guys, and i dont need to go past 7k, just better then falling at 5.5-6k.
i have the 04 gto motor so dont i have the ls6 intake????

 

Yes, you do. Top end power - cam change. MS4 should get it done. But, you should look at good heads, long tube headers, FAST 92, more compression, possible fly-cutting pistons, better rear-end, etc. The list is never-ending!

 

You can get away with rodbolts to reach 7000 rpm, you defiantely dont need a crank, and the rods/pistons should hold up. I routinely shift @ 7200 and have tried as High as 7400... But it runs the fastest @ 7200 for my setup...

h/c/intake....

 

Same as above!i am running h/c ms3,prs 5.3's,all bolt ons.leave on lmtr at 7grand.shift at 6600rpm all stock block.has seen lmtr more than i can count.ws6 trans am i think,watch his vid on stock block with rod bolts & cartek stg 4x set up !wheels up mid 10's with a 10.32.

 

thanks guys, good advice

 

I'm not a fan of the 7K shift....as that's the "magical" number when rod bolts can fail. With dual springs, heads, etc I've run my car to 6800 a couple times. Even that does not seem natural (my car sounds pissed off when I rev it that high )..... a higher RPM (with the right cam) will net faster times. I only rev mine out when needed so I can get through the 1/4 at the top of 4th gear. Generally I shift at 6600.