Engine Build Gone Wrong?
10-16-2009, 03:46 PM
#41
Cylinder #1 10% NO GOOD
Cylinder #2 20% TERRIBLE
Cylinder #3 8% NO GOOD
Cylinder #4 8% No GOOD
Cylinder #5 5% JUST PASSING
Cylinder #6 20% TERRIBLE
Cylinder #7 10% NO GOOD
Cylinder #8 10% NO GOOD
Cylinder #2 20% TERRIBLE
Cylinder #3 8% NO GOOD
Cylinder #4 8% No GOOD
Cylinder #5 5% JUST PASSING
Cylinder #6 20% TERRIBLE
Cylinder #7 10% NO GOOD
Cylinder #8 10% NO GOOD
10-16-2009, 04:13 PM
#45
I better add something before you get too upset, every builder depending on experience will do things a little different. I'm going to say if you got an 4% to 6% leakage you got a decent engine. Of course lower is better. 8% and up is just sloppy work.
There are plenty of builders on this board, maybe someone will chime in?
There are plenty of builders on this board, maybe someone will chime in?
10-16-2009, 05:57 PM
#46
I called and talked to Eric @ HKE.
1) He thinks that maybe the rings were installed upside down which would create the postive pressure to push the oil in the combustion chambers and intake.
2) The heads. There has been alot of times he has seen on CNC'd and ported heads where it will crack at where the push rods go in and it will consume alot of oil.
These are stage 3 heads. I have known the shop for awhile and alot of good stuff has come out of there so I think we might be on to something with the heads. 2 motors have the same issues both used the same heads. Even at those leakage rates does not cause a motor to eat that much oil. The builder had someone who use to work for him do the heads so they would be covered.
He will take it back to his shop next week so I am waiting. I am glad he is working on this whole deal.
1) He thinks that maybe the rings were installed upside down which would create the postive pressure to push the oil in the combustion chambers and intake.
2) The heads. There has been alot of times he has seen on CNC'd and ported heads where it will crack at where the push rods go in and it will consume alot of oil.
These are stage 3 heads. I have known the shop for awhile and alot of good stuff has come out of there so I think we might be on to something with the heads. 2 motors have the same issues both used the same heads. Even at those leakage rates does not cause a motor to eat that much oil. The builder had someone who use to work for him do the heads so they would be covered.
He will take it back to his shop next week so I am waiting. I am glad he is working on this whole deal.
10-16-2009, 06:23 PM
#47
as i'd be.
10-16-2009, 10:19 PM
#48
do yourself a big favor and demand a leak down test BEFORE its put back in the car or started. Its pudry dam simple as you build the engine before the rockers go on to test each cylinder. If they don't pass then you find the trouble before you get the entire engine together. Purdy simple stuff.
Another thing to consider when having a leak down test done is was the piston at the top of bore AND was it held there as the air was applied. If you apply 100psi to a cylinder the air is going to create enough force to push the piston to the bottom of the stroke. Then you are measuring the leakage at the bottom of the bore.........I WOULD CHECK BOTH> to check the top you need to hold the crankshaft from turning before air is applied. Testing like this will show cylinder taper problems etc and show if the rings seal good at the bottom and top of the stroke.
Keep in mind 100PSI X the area above the piston = ALOT OF FORCE! Keep hands AWAY from things that can move when the crankshaft moves. Most people don't know this but they use air like this in big diesel powered ships to move the engines crankshafts below 100 rpm to move the ships in port! This is serious force so be careful. If you are going to try and hold the crank at the top of the bore a pair of plyers is just gonna whack your forehead.
Good Luck
Another thing to consider when having a leak down test done is was the piston at the top of bore AND was it held there as the air was applied. If you apply 100psi to a cylinder the air is going to create enough force to push the piston to the bottom of the stroke. Then you are measuring the leakage at the bottom of the bore.........I WOULD CHECK BOTH> to check the top you need to hold the crankshaft from turning before air is applied. Testing like this will show cylinder taper problems etc and show if the rings seal good at the bottom and top of the stroke.
Keep in mind 100PSI X the area above the piston = ALOT OF FORCE! Keep hands AWAY from things that can move when the crankshaft moves. Most people don't know this but they use air like this in big diesel powered ships to move the engines crankshafts below 100 rpm to move the ships in port! This is serious force so be careful. If you are going to try and hold the crank at the top of the bore a pair of plyers is just gonna whack your forehead.
Good Luck
Last edited by 99RTA; 10-16-2009 at 10:50 PM.
10-17-2009, 08:15 PM
#50
Launching!
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: greensboro, nc
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I have built a lot of engines and im not a fan of rottila products it may be the cause of you rings not setting. I break in all of my engines with 10w 30 conv oil. run the engine for about 40 miles easy and then turn it up.
10-18-2009, 03:28 PM
#51
10-20-2009, 09:26 AM
#54
I'd bet more on the rings being installed wrong than the heads. Erik know's what he's talking about, he fixes those engines with the rings installed upside down all the time and they come from a shop with a great reputation right there in Houston.
There is an old saying.. fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me.
10-20-2009, 10:42 PM
#55
I 100% agree.
Builder is trying to get me to buy more heads however he did the stage3 port on these. I made it 100% clear I am not comming out of pocket for anything and the motor needs to be fixed. I requested that the motor be sent to a machine shop to have it honed with a torque plate to assure everything is good there. Also to make 100% sure the rings are put on correct. If the heads need to be replaced I feel he should provide another set of stage 3 heads or provide something comp to try and see if that is the issue.
Builder is trying to get me to buy more heads however he did the stage3 port on these. I made it 100% clear I am not comming out of pocket for anything and the motor needs to be fixed. I requested that the motor be sent to a machine shop to have it honed with a torque plate to assure everything is good there. Also to make 100% sure the rings are put on correct. If the heads need to be replaced I feel he should provide another set of stage 3 heads or provide something comp to try and see if that is the issue.
