tr230/224 111lsa cam questions
10-21-2009, 10:41 PM
#21
I think reverse splits are good for a budget racer.. Meaning stock heads ls6 intake/ls1 etc etc.. Where as traditional splits are better for all out.. FAST / good flowing heads/ etc etc etc.
That is just what I have gathered though.. Your own research is better than anyone else telling you anything.
10-23-2009, 07:51 AM
#28
If from what I have gathered is correct and I understand it... The reverse split cams if set up properly (it will take more fine tuning) and with a extremely free flowing exhaust, the reverse split should perform better.
I think reverse splits are good for a budget racer.. Meaning stock heads ls6 intake/ls1 etc etc.. Where as traditional splits are better for all out.. FAST / good flowing heads/ etc etc etc.
That is just what I have gathered though.. Your own research is better than anyone else telling you anything.
I think reverse splits are good for a budget racer.. Meaning stock heads ls6 intake/ls1 etc etc.. Where as traditional splits are better for all out.. FAST / good flowing heads/ etc etc etc.
That is just what I have gathered though.. Your own research is better than anyone else telling you anything.
10-23-2009, 09:08 AM
#29
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10-23-2009, 12:16 PM
#31
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Hey - I'm the guy that a few here mentioned. I have this exact cam, and love it. I have a Whisper lid, smooth bellows, LS6 intake, and Hooker 1.75" LT headers. That's it. No porting/polishing, no UD pulley, no matched ports, etc.
I made 417rwtq and 411rwhp. These are really great numbers, but I actually think that they're a tad low. Why? 3 reasons:
1) I have a VERY conservative tune (richer than it needs to be, lower RPM limiter, etc.). I'm road racing this car, and it needs to last. It'll be above 3500rpm for 20-30 minutes at a time, and at WOT abour 100 times per race. Even an aggressive street tune would severely decrease the life of the motor. I was willing to give up some power in return for reliability. If I were on the street, where even the most aggressive driving is still mild compared to racing, I'd go with a more aggressive tune.
2) I have only headers that dump. I have no y-pipe or exhaust. Although this sounds great (both on paper, and in person), it actually reduces my power a bit. It's a long theory, but it's due to scavenging of exhaust pulses.
3) Lastly, and most importantly, I'm out of fuel up top. My injectors are at 101% duty cycle from 5500rpm to redline. Once I get better injectors, we expect to see a bit more power up there. Don't want to speculate, but 5-10 more hp is not unreasonable.
To compliment this cam, I stuck in ARP rod bolts, Comp 925 springs, hardened pushrods and a few other things. Many of these things weren't "needed", but will make the engine last longer.
Please feel free to PM or e-mail me if you have some questions!
I made 417rwtq and 411rwhp. These are really great numbers, but I actually think that they're a tad low. Why? 3 reasons:
1) I have a VERY conservative tune (richer than it needs to be, lower RPM limiter, etc.). I'm road racing this car, and it needs to last. It'll be above 3500rpm for 20-30 minutes at a time, and at WOT abour 100 times per race. Even an aggressive street tune would severely decrease the life of the motor. I was willing to give up some power in return for reliability. If I were on the street, where even the most aggressive driving is still mild compared to racing, I'd go with a more aggressive tune.
2) I have only headers that dump. I have no y-pipe or exhaust. Although this sounds great (both on paper, and in person), it actually reduces my power a bit. It's a long theory, but it's due to scavenging of exhaust pulses.
3) Lastly, and most importantly, I'm out of fuel up top. My injectors are at 101% duty cycle from 5500rpm to redline. Once I get better injectors, we expect to see a bit more power up there. Don't want to speculate, but 5-10 more hp is not unreasonable.
To compliment this cam, I stuck in ARP rod bolts, Comp 925 springs, hardened pushrods and a few other things. Many of these things weren't "needed", but will make the engine last longer.
Please feel free to PM or e-mail me if you have some questions!
10-23-2009, 01:40 PM
#33
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Hey - I'm the guy that a few here mentioned. I have this exact cam, and love it. I have a Whisper lid, smooth bellows, LS6 intake, and Hooker 1.75" LT headers. That's it. No porting/polishing, no UD pulley, no matched ports, etc.
I made 417rwtq and 411rwhp. These are really great numbers, but I actually think that they're a tad low. Why? 3 reasons:
1) I have a VERY conservative tune (richer than it needs to be, lower RPM limiter, etc.). I'm road racing this car, and it needs to last. It'll be above 3500rpm for 20-30 minutes at a time, and at WOT abour 100 times per race. Even an aggressive street tune would severely decrease the life of the motor. I was willing to give up some power in return for reliability. If I were on the street, where even the most aggressive driving is still mild compared to racing, I'd go with a more aggressive tune.
2) I have only headers that dump. I have no y-pipe or exhaust. Although this sounds great (both on paper, and in person), it actually reduces my power a bit. It's a long theory, but it's due to scavenging of exhaust pulses.
3) Lastly, and most importantly, I'm out of fuel up top. My injectors are at 101% duty cycle from 5500rpm to redline. Once I get better injectors, we expect to see a bit more power up there. Don't want to speculate, but 5-10 more hp is not unreasonable.
To compliment this cam, I stuck in ARP rod bolts, Comp 925 springs, hardened pushrods and a few other things. Many of these things weren't "needed", but will make the engine last longer.
Please feel free to PM or e-mail me if you have some questions!
I made 417rwtq and 411rwhp. These are really great numbers, but I actually think that they're a tad low. Why? 3 reasons:
1) I have a VERY conservative tune (richer than it needs to be, lower RPM limiter, etc.). I'm road racing this car, and it needs to last. It'll be above 3500rpm for 20-30 minutes at a time, and at WOT abour 100 times per race. Even an aggressive street tune would severely decrease the life of the motor. I was willing to give up some power in return for reliability. If I were on the street, where even the most aggressive driving is still mild compared to racing, I'd go with a more aggressive tune.
2) I have only headers that dump. I have no y-pipe or exhaust. Although this sounds great (both on paper, and in person), it actually reduces my power a bit. It's a long theory, but it's due to scavenging of exhaust pulses.
3) Lastly, and most importantly, I'm out of fuel up top. My injectors are at 101% duty cycle from 5500rpm to redline. Once I get better injectors, we expect to see a bit more power up there. Don't want to speculate, but 5-10 more hp is not unreasonable.
To compliment this cam, I stuck in ARP rod bolts, Comp 925 springs, hardened pushrods and a few other things. Many of these things weren't "needed", but will make the engine last longer.
Please feel free to PM or e-mail me if you have some questions!
10-23-2009, 02:17 PM
#34
I think your on to something here, ever since I saw the first dyno thread with pred z's el toro cam I knew there was something special for me about these cams. I think you hit it right on the head when you say that they are for a more budget minded attack on the 1/4 mile. Getting over 400lb ft. trq. with a traditional split would take a nice set of heads whereas with a reverse split cam you can make over 400 if your exhaust is LT's 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 preferably a 3" x-pipe and 3" tru duals would get you that 400 ft. lbs with that cam with of course a lid (maybe ram air and other supporting mods just not expensive *** heads). The amount of tq. at lower rpms and how it carries it throughout the curve is why these cams shine in my opinion.
That is pretty much what I have gathered, I like to look at everything.. I have noticed that it is harder to get it set up properly.. But if you do it shows great rewards.. I will be getting a reverse split for the Gfs car once it is time for a cam..
PS, that TQ curve is sick...
Question for your reverse split Gurus, if you are watching this thread..
Do you reverse split cams like as big of a converter as a traditional.. I have a 4000 in any car I have because they run good.. But wouldn't a smaller rever split (something like a 226 sized cam) be better suited with around a 3400 converter? Just thinking this because they make TQ so low.. I don't know though!
10-23-2009, 11:28 PM
#38
I have this cam but haven't put it in yet. I have a set of TEA 5.3 1.5 heads, LS6 intake, XS long tubes and all bolt on's except E/W.
I have a 150 shot to put on top of that.
As mentioned before a reverse split cam needs a really good exhaust. I am thinking about doing dual cut outs. I thought about true duals but I have strano springs and I don't think I will have any ground clearance.
People have made some stupid power with this cam.
It sounds really mean too.
00 Trans Am, what injectors are you running now? The ones that ran out?
I have a 150 shot to put on top of that.
As mentioned before a reverse split cam needs a really good exhaust. I am thinking about doing dual cut outs. I thought about true duals but I have strano springs and I don't think I will have any ground clearance.
People have made some stupid power with this cam.
It sounds really mean too.
00 Trans Am, what injectors are you running now? The ones that ran out?
10-24-2009, 08:27 AM
#39
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You'll need a tune pretty soon. I was able to drive mine to the tuner, and it actually did OK. But, it simply wouldn't idle. It'd surge itself to death in about 30 seconds. If you have a local tuner, then do it there. But, if you want to call up Thunder, they've tuned about eleventy-thousand of these. They probably have something that they can mail you that is an exact match that would cost less than a custom tune (might give up a few ponies). I'm not a tuning guy, so I'm not really sure, though.
There's a list in a thread somewhere of everything that I got. But, I think the essential things are:
- springs (perhaps retainers; I got tooled steel instead of titanium because it lasts a lot longer)
- pushrods
- timing chain
- gaskets
- tune
If you really plan on running high RPM, the rod bolts are suggested.
Please don't take my word on all this, though. I'm simply repeating what I've heard from the guys at Thunder and people on forums.
There's a list in a thread somewhere of everything that I got. But, I think the essential things are:
- springs (perhaps retainers; I got tooled steel instead of titanium because it lasts a lot longer)
- pushrods
- timing chain
- gaskets
- tune
If you really plan on running high RPM, the rod bolts are suggested.
Please don't take my word on all this, though. I'm simply repeating what I've heard from the guys at Thunder and people on forums.
10-24-2009, 08:29 AM
#40
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You'll need a tune pretty soon. I was able to drive mine to the tuner, and it actually did OK. But, it simply wouldn't idle. It'd surge itself to death in about 30 seconds. If you have a local tuner, then do it there. But, if you want to call up Thunder, they've tuned about eleventy-thousand of these. They probably have something that they can mail you that is an exact match that would cost less than a custom tune (might give up a few ponies). I'm not a tuning guy, so I'm not really sure, though.
There's a list in a thread somewhere of everything that I got. But, I think the essential things are:
- springs (perhaps retainers; I got tooled steel instead of titanium because it lasts a lot longer)
- pushrods
- timing chain
- gaskets
- tune
If you really plan on running high RPM, the rod bolts are suggested.
And, you "might" need injectors. I did, but my car made 322/358 at the wheels when stock. Most people can run this cam on stock injectors.
Please don't take my word on all this, though. I'm simply repeating what I've heard from the guys at Thunder and people on forums.
I'm not running right now. I'm waiting until the new injectors go in. Gonna get some 36lb injectors. Nothing fancy.
There's a list in a thread somewhere of everything that I got. But, I think the essential things are:
- springs (perhaps retainers; I got tooled steel instead of titanium because it lasts a lot longer)
- pushrods
- timing chain
- gaskets
- tune
If you really plan on running high RPM, the rod bolts are suggested.
And, you "might" need injectors. I did, but my car made 322/358 at the wheels when stock. Most people can run this cam on stock injectors.
Please don't take my word on all this, though. I'm simply repeating what I've heard from the guys at Thunder and people on forums.
I'm not running right now. I'm waiting until the new injectors go in. Gonna get some 36lb injectors. Nothing fancy.