I am having a fever to change my current setup, and want a huge nasty cam. When will I be past the practicality of the hyd. and need the solid? The car is currently an m6, but that too could change in the very near future. What's the low down? I will always drive this car on the street, although I might lessen the amount depending on the trade off. I cannot allow my car to get to the condition that a certain blue-green m6 formula I know, who's owner only dreams of driving it on the street. All input appreciated.

Thanks
Stan

 

Hydraulic cams will achieve everything you would want in a street/race setup. Unless you are wanting to push the limits then it wouldnt be a good streetable car.

 

anyone else?

 

Did someone say big and nasty cam?

If that's what you want, go for it.

Sound clips (5MB each)


http://www.thunderracing.com/movies/andrew1.mpg
http://www.thunderracing.com/movies/andrew2.mpg
http://www.thunderracing.com/movies/andrew3.mpg

Cam: 250/244 .646/.646 109 +6, idles great at 850 RPM .

One advantage the solid has over hydraulic is the idle. It acts like a much smaller cam at idle. But then up top. Woo hoo.

My motor is 100% streetable. I try to drive the '98 to work one or two days a week (when the car's not being worked on, and the sun is out).

-Andrew

 

no that's a mf'n cam!!!!

 

What sort of power could I make with an all bore 6.0L? However still maintaing a hyd. and on pump gas.

 

Wow!
That cam is music to my ears!!
If you don't mind me asking why did you choose to
go with such a big cam. Does a solid roller system
allow a the useof a bigger cam?
Most of the heads/cam guys that use a hydraulic
setup don't use anything quite that big.
Sorry for the rookie questions.
Thanks for posting those links!
Dave

 

A solid cam HAS to be 6-8 degrees bigger min. at .050" then an hyd cam for the total durations to be equal.ex..a solid cam that has 238@.050" and a hyd cam at 230@.050 would both have the same total duration. So you can run a bigger solid cam that would idle better and have better performance .

With today's new aggresive hyd cams,a solid cam really dosen't show its big advantage untill 6500+. On the dyno there may be little difference in power,but the solid cam WILL go down the track faster in the same car.

The only disadvantage to a solid cam setup is price and when you have a more aggresive profile\higher valve lift you have to install good valvetrain parts and have proper setup for it to live. Typical maint is lash check\adjustment every 6 months and replace valvesprings every year.

 

3 words: "Lots of gear"
If you have the gearing so that you can spin through the traps at 7000 rpm, there can be some good gains.

IMO, A built bottom end is a must have so that you can safely turn the rpm.

As a side note, it will be interesting to see how the newer intakes effect the choice. As high rpm breathing improves, solid rollers will probably become popular despite the added costs.

 

I dont feel that you need a solid. Alot of people talk about the lifters collapsing but when the right high oil pressure is applied then I have NEVER SEEN A PROBLEM. even at 7700RPM. If you were to be talking about a good setup I have been studying the bleed off lifter that will bleed off some duration at lower engine speeds and create better lower end tq as well as less emmissions and will act as a regular lifter at mid rpms and even nearly as a solid at higher rpms. Now that is fine american engineering. I would rather be a bit tamer at idle and make better power than sound sooo mean. We have had quite a bit of experience with very large cams and the gain up top is usually not what one would expect as opposed to a med cam that will make greater power until 6200 and just less than 5 hp of a larger cam.
sorry didnt mean to get all worked up, cams are a great thing and often are they improperly selected.

Jeremy