frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

I got a used 98 crank in box waiting to be shipped, 150+ shipping also negotiable
Jeremy
ALB NM

Shane

I'm going to tow the car to a machinist in Austin to see if they can get it out without removing the crank.
If they can't, I'll tow it to a reputable LS1 shop in Dallas or Houston...
thanks for the suggestions all...
Shane

v8maro

iTrader: (4)

Man Shane, sorry to hear your luck man. That's one expensive problem, try that desintigration thing, you might not have to pull all that off.
-Steve

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

If the car is drivable just drive it, the pulley might never fall off!

Shane

Being towed to Nitro Daves's in a few days...his machinist is pretty sure he can get it out. I've got my fingers crossed...

Thanks for the suggestions everyone!

Shane

Whistler

iTrader: (46)

Another guy mentioned a good idea earlier. Lay a nice tack weld holding the pulley in place just for piece of mind. It probably would stay on regardless, but the tack would be safe keeping.You could keep driving the car while making other plans. Save up and do a stroker rebuild at a more convienient time.

J-Rod

There are two ways to remove a broken bolt.

One is EDM - That is an Electro Arc machine. Its basically a controlled carbon arc gouge. Some machine shops have them. Basically they have a carbon tip that the place on the metal and then they in a very controlled fashin remove the broken bolt. I know folks who have removed broken ARP studs and stuff like that out of blocks. This can be done without hurting the threads. But, if the bolt broke, the chances are the threads are boogered up anyway. Cost can be around $100 per inch.

Another option is someone who is familiar with hardened bolts. My buddy is, he uses a small drill bit a sharp punch. He basically chips the bolt out of the hole by splitting it into 4 pieces. He can do so without destryoing threads, and often removed bolts from alumnum heads this way.

It may be easier and cheaper to go buy a new stock crank and a set of bearings.

Non of the other options that mentioned tapping the other part of the crank, etc... are even remotely advisable. No easy out will touch a bolt like that. Most drill bits wont even put a dent in hardedned steel. Cobalt might, but depending on what it is there is a good chance it won't. EDM may be you only choice.

robertbartsch

....any word on the progress on this issue?

Shane

Picking up the trailer today, and towing to Nitro Dave's tomorrow. I'll have more info on Thursday...hopefully good info...
Shane

SSean

if you welded the pulley to the crank (which I don't recomend) wouldn't that mes up the balance? Seems like that would cause for a bad vibration once it was running.

highgear

The old style motors were much easier to work on. Did not have to torque balancers to umpteen jillion pounds. They had a looser interference fit; just put them on till it bottomed out, then whack it with a hammer. They never came off because the motor was spinning the oposite of the threads.

robertbartsch

I thought this problem had been encountered before on this forum....

i remember it eventually came out but I dont think the bolt was hardened steel and i think the crank threads were not buggered....

...not a good problem to be faced with....

I'm bumbed thinking about it and it is not even my car....I guess it is like Billy and Hilly Clinton once said - "We feel your pain"


I think it is a good move to take it to a pro who has expereince with these types of issues, if that does not work, I would tear down the engine....i advise against tack welding the pulley to the crank but it might work

...the pulley may not now be fully seated on the crank, however, and this would cause your drive belts to be thrown...

...in addition, the pulley is cast iron; right, so you may not be able to weld cast iron to the nodular iron crank.... not sure on this one...

...keep us posted...

..good luck!

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man, that was my idea! And the part about saving for a stroker later on is even better! With it welded on, you could still easily get it back off to build the stroker by blowing out the weld with an acetylene torch.

As far as drilling the hardened bolt, that can easily be done by using a solid carbide bit. Machinists have these and can get your bolt out for you if you really want to.

Shane

Nitro Dave's was able to fix it up. There was no way to heat up the crank or the bolt, nor weld a new bolt in. The machinist was able to re-tap the front end of the crank though, and get me back on the road.

Great customer service, and a nice cheap fix...
Wooot!
Shane

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Love happy endings!

KGSloan

glad to hear it worked out for ya

Black Sunshine/ 00SS

iTrader: (1)

Glad it worked out for you.

I def feel your pain. When doing the TH400 swap, I broke a flywheel bolt off in the crank!

ARE took it out for me when the car was in for a tune. I felt sick when it happened.

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Glad Dave got you going again. Beautiful car ya got there.

-Andrew
(one of the guys on the dyno there Wednesday evening)

v8maro

iTrader: (4)

nice to see it all worked out!
-Steve

Shane

Thanks guys...I love happy endings too...

Now, I just gotta change the oil, do some LS1Editing, and get ready for the new dyno numbers...

Added since last(340/353) dyno: TR224 cam, ASP underdrive pulley, Bauer ported TB, TSP lid (in place of Whisper lid)...


Shane