The Time for Cam Hath Cometh...
X-Pipe
Long Tubes
Built 4L60e
3.73s *not installed*
Ram Air
Lid
P/P Throttle Body
Tune
Plugs
Wires
Some minor crap i cant remember
After this cam in short order ill be getting a 3800-4000 stall and either a ls6 or fast 90 intake.
Ok i wanna run these on stock heads *for now* and so far these are the cams i have in mind...
Magic Stick V.3 237/242 .603/.609" 112 LSA
Comp Cams 248/254 .615"/.595" 112 LSA
Now i dont wanna have to do any flycutting milling anything like that, this is my 1st cam install and i wanna try to make it as simple as possible for now.
So, will either of these work w/o cutting? Which will produce the best results? Any other cams i should be looking at? Looking for choppy idle, under curve power, and overall beastyness. Thanks.
wow...
what are your power goals? or speed goals?
you can get more power under the curve and better street manners with a smaller cam.
Also looking at 228/228 .588/.588 112lsa on the "smaller" side of things. 1300/6300rpm range on it as compared to 2300/6800 on the ms3.
FMS-F14-114 FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 232"/234" .598"/.598" 114LSA - aggressive profile with a 2600-7000 RPM range, rough idle
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Jugg, polluters #s are damn impressive... can a cam that big go in without cutting anything tho? They have a nice *** package deal on tick's site tho.
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With your setup, and a 7000rm redline, you'll be looking at 2nd gear from 51mph to 96mph, which will correspond to 3700rpm-7000rpm.
Notice that the torque is at 375 at 3700rpm. That'll be plenty enough to pull you along until your horsepower rises.
FYI - I chose this cam for that exact feature. I need power at 45mph, which is 3600rpm for me. I liked how the curve was shaped, so this is what I went with.
BTW, this is stock heads, LS6 intake, LT headers, stock pulley, lightweight clutch/fly, stock T-56. The tune you get will determine the "streetability" of it. A good tuner can make this either a mild-mannered-street-machine, or an all-out-racecar.
Let me know if you want details of what else I put in the car when I did this (valve springs, timing chain, etc.).
In fact, looking at their cam dyno, I'm surprised that it's so low, for what is supposed to be a "huge cam". I've got much the same stuff (cheap Hooker headers, LS6 intake) and made better numbers. Except that I ran very lean on the top end (injectors were at 101% duty cycle from 5500rpm to redline), meaning that I lost top-end power.
For comparison: the Polluter dyno graph

edit: just reread your comment, you also gotta realize though not every motor is the same. you and i can both put in the same cam, and hardware and i can put down 401, and you put down 420. also gotta factor in weather, heat, moisture, everything factors in. its not just cut and dry where every dyno has perfect conditions they meet b4 dynoing. you can take the same car and dyno it 2 separate times in the day and get different numbers and thats on the same car. i know this for a fact, because i dynod my car with slowhawk in MA, and put down 367, and then a week later went to ttp's dyno day and it was much hotter, i drove 4 hrs etc, and i only put down 341. nothing changed in my car, just the conditions around the car
Last edited by DarkJuggalo; Nov 23, 2009 at 01:23 AM.



