Lingenfelter Gt2-3 Cam???
Lingenfelter Gt2-3 Cam??? How good of a cam is this? I know nothing about cams. The cam with the car when I bought it and I'm pretty sure there are better/bigger cams out there. Specs are 207/220 @ .050, Lift .571"/578", and centerline 118.5. I just bought a ss4000 converter and a couple of my buddies was saying that the converter was too big for the cam.
Its a little hotter than the LS6 cam. Its a nice cam that's easy on the valve train and sounds exactly like stock. My GTO made 368/360 with it. Dynatech long tubes with cats, stock catback, Speed Inc CAI, SLP underdrive pulley, and tune. Added GMPP LS6 heads and it went to 393/388.
Its a great stealthy cam and it does make power. But that converter sounds too big for the cam.
Its a great stealthy cam and it does make power. But that converter sounds too big for the cam.
Check out the Comp 54-428-11 at this link. We've made good power with this camshaft. Bob http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=523
Thanks guys. This is the motor I have in the car. http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...egory_Code=C56
It has the Lingenfelter heads and the Gt2-3 cam I was talking about. I have the paperwork and I call Lingenfelter to confirm that they built/supplied the motor. As of right now everything else is stock but a lm1 exhaust and 3:73 gears. My fast toys 85mm lid will be here wednsday. I'm in the process of trying to build a high 9's to mid 10's car. Like I said I'm still learning so do you guys still recommend the cames that were mentioned. Ls1 tech has helped me so much and yall help is greatly appreciated!!
It has the Lingenfelter heads and the Gt2-3 cam I was talking about. I have the paperwork and I call Lingenfelter to confirm that they built/supplied the motor. As of right now everything else is stock but a lm1 exhaust and 3:73 gears. My fast toys 85mm lid will be here wednsday. I'm in the process of trying to build a high 9's to mid 10's car. Like I said I'm still learning so do you guys still recommend the cames that were mentioned. Ls1 tech has helped me so much and yall help is greatly appreciated!!
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I don't understand how people are saying the stall is too big for the cam, don't people use LARGER stalls than this one on max effort ls1 STOCK INTERNAL setups?? That converter will work great with that camshaft.
It won't just work, it will kick *** actually.
It won't just work, it will kick *** actually.
Agreed! My buddy built a gto fully bolt on with 4000 stall with the internals completly stock and ran a 11.7 with only the driverseat.
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: PA/MD
put the stall in and you will love it, then when you decide to go with a bigger cam the stall will already be in and ready to go.
I DD my goat 60 miles round trip to work and back with heads/ cam/ 3,800 stall and love it
I DD my goat 60 miles round trip to work and back with heads/ cam/ 3,800 stall and love it
Yea I was going to put it in anyway. I've never been in a stalled car and didnt know what to expect. I've seen on here how everyone who has a stalled car loves it and alot are on stock motors/ mildly modified. I just need to find some tires to hold the beast becuase I have a feeling its going to get REALLY NASTY with this stall! Are you guys that are stalled running a trans cooler?
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2006
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I just bought this cam off a friend, he had it in his clubsport 5 years ago(3800lb), was very quick its also had a set of ported heads, it ran a 1.63 60 foot with a 3300 stall, and a 1.51 60 foot with a 4400 stall, more stall just made it better
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,481
Likes: 5
From: PA/MD
Yea I was going to put it in anyway. I've never been in a stalled car and didnt know what to expect. I've seen on here how everyone who has a stalled car loves it and alot are on stock motors/ mildly modified. I just need to find some tires to hold the beast becuase I have a feeling its going to get REALLY NASTY with this stall! Are you guys that are stalled running a trans cooler?
even with my 3,800 stall it takes just alittle more throttle to get the car rolling (light throttle it will slip to around 1700-1900 rpms).
The only time they slip near the flash rpm is when you mash hard on the throttle.
I have mibe set to lock at 30 mph part throttle to make it easier to frive in town. if it starts to buck and lug at low rpms (bigger cam) all you have to do is touch the brake and it will unlock to stop the bucking.
it will break traction a lot easier so good tires will make a bigger difference.
the tranny will now be your weak link, I beat on mine daily for over a year before I had any problems, when I rebuilt it I got =
Beast sunshell
heavy duty sprag
Raptor input kit
Hughes Performance kevlar race clutchs and band
5 pin planets
Transgo shift kit.
also added a monentary switch to ground from pinout 31 on the blue pcm connector to give me the performance shift option (need to have someone with Hptuners change the setting in the computer to turn on thr option)
basicly gives you two different shift programs....i run normal daily, then when racing hit the button and set the performance shift.
my shift delays, and torque management are zeroed out and shift points and pressures raised in the perf option.......its down right insane how quick and hard it shifts
1st of all, you NEED a tranny cooler if you a stall. go to you local auto parts store and get the biggest one they have (rv & towing 20,000-35,000 GVW works perfect)
even with my 3,800 stall it takes just alittle more throttle to get the car rolling (light throttle it will slip to around 1700-1900 rpms).
The only time they slip near the flash rpm is when you mash hard on the throttle.
I have mibe set to lock at 30 mph part throttle to make it easier to frive in town. if it starts to buck and lug at low rpms (bigger cam) all you have to do is touch the brake and it will unlock to stop the bucking.
it will break traction a lot easier so good tires will make a bigger difference.
the tranny will now be your weak link, I beat on mine daily for over a year before I had any problems, when I rebuilt it I got =
Beast sunshell
heavy duty sprag
Raptor input kit
Hughes Performance kevlar race clutchs and band
5 pin planets
Transgo shift kit.
also added a monentary switch to ground from pinout 31 on the blue pcm connector to give me the performance shift option (need to have someone with Hptuners change the setting in the computer to turn on thr option)
basicly gives you two different shift programs....i run normal daily, then when racing hit the button and set the performance shift.
my shift delays, and torque management are zeroed out and shift points and pressures raised in the perf option.......its down right insane how quick and hard it shifts
even with my 3,800 stall it takes just alittle more throttle to get the car rolling (light throttle it will slip to around 1700-1900 rpms).
The only time they slip near the flash rpm is when you mash hard on the throttle.
I have mibe set to lock at 30 mph part throttle to make it easier to frive in town. if it starts to buck and lug at low rpms (bigger cam) all you have to do is touch the brake and it will unlock to stop the bucking.
it will break traction a lot easier so good tires will make a bigger difference.
the tranny will now be your weak link, I beat on mine daily for over a year before I had any problems, when I rebuilt it I got =
Beast sunshell
heavy duty sprag
Raptor input kit
Hughes Performance kevlar race clutchs and band
5 pin planets
Transgo shift kit.
also added a monentary switch to ground from pinout 31 on the blue pcm connector to give me the performance shift option (need to have someone with Hptuners change the setting in the computer to turn on thr option)
basicly gives you two different shift programs....i run normal daily, then when racing hit the button and set the performance shift.
my shift delays, and torque management are zeroed out and shift points and pressures raised in the perf option.......its down right insane how quick and hard it shifts