bearings?
bearings? so i am looking into doing katech rod bolts soon and i was told by a gm mechanic friend that while im in there i should do rod bearings as well because it isnt much more work....is this true?
what does it take to do this with the engine in the car, or is it even possible? my car has 12x,000 miles on it and im hooking up the spray this winter, so i want to make sure my bottom will last long enough until i forge it (in a couple years)...are the bearings even worth fking with?
the car was never beat on until i got it at 125k, always regularly maintained (dealership proven) and i have only put a few thousand miles on it and have changed the oil every 1k miles with amsoil....what do you guys think? thanks!
what does it take to do this with the engine in the car, or is it even possible? my car has 12x,000 miles on it and im hooking up the spray this winter, so i want to make sure my bottom will last long enough until i forge it (in a couple years)...are the bearings even worth fking with?
the car was never beat on until i got it at 125k, always regularly maintained (dealership proven) and i have only put a few thousand miles on it and have changed the oil every 1k miles with amsoil....what do you guys think? thanks!
+1 change those bearings man, you are already going to remove the rod caps so you might as well change the bearings, it will take a little more time and effort but it will be fine.
Unless you have an issue I would leave them alone. As far as I know the correct way to change the rod bolts is one at a time without removing the rod cap. So you wont disturb the already seated bearing. There are some threads on here about spun bearings after rod bolt upgrades as a result of incorrect installation. To do the bearings right you really need to mic the crank.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
You are gonna get people on both sides of the fence about this one. If it was me, this is what I would do: replace the bolts and bearings. I did mine with ARPs too BTW.
hmmm, im not liking what im hearing lol...i decided to go with the katech bolts because they use the stock stretch/torque and require NO machining, which i know was a controversy with the ARP's...any more input or experience? i just dont want to spray my car and spin a bearing, that would break my heart..
