Oil leak after cam install.Please LOOK
11-26-2009, 12:27 AM
#22
11-26-2009, 01:08 AM
#24
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what would help to trace the leak is to warm engine up and jack car up ans spray an engine degreaser on the oil pan. Its easier to see where its coming from when looking at it when its clean.Hope that helps
11-26-2009, 02:43 AM
#25
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Well i drove the car to work 2day and the car is running good. The cold startup has stalled on me a couple of times. I added a FAST 78 intake and the Thunder Racing 224 and i still havent tuned it. So im sure my car could really benefit from the tune and thats why startup can be a little tough. My first impressions are that the car is running badass. Pulls hard.I am impressed. to be honest the cam install wasnt that bad. Well worth the time and effort. as of today, i still have a small oil leak. i think my problem is that im not giving the RTV silicone enough time to cure. By the way, the LOWE's 5/16 dowels worked as they should and for under 5 bucks beats the hell out of the 100 dollar JPR tool. I will continue to chase down my oil leak gremlin and keep everyone updated. But i am very satisfied and cant wait for the tune.
If you'd like, give myself or one of my techs a call on Monday. One of us can walk you through the process to get rid of your leak. Its not an RTV problem. I know if you are not familiar with the terminology I'm using regarding the front cover install process, one of us can more clearly walk you through the process over the phone. You should not have an oil leak after a cam install...Thanks,
Shane
09-11-2010, 09:29 AM
#27
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I don't believe its possible to get to all of the front cover bolts without removing the water pump first. All you have to do is loosen all of them just a bit to let the cover slide down as you torque the bottom two. This will draw the front cover down to compress the sealing surface of the oil pan gasket.
Shane
Shane
Im chasing a oil leak gremlin also. I didnt align the cover like said. So what i gather from this is i need to remove my water pump, then loosen my timing cover bolts and oil pan bolts alsoo. Once all bolts are loosened, i torque the four front bolts going up thru the oil pan first. That should pull the timing cover down correct? Then torque the rest of the timing cover bolts in side to side order. After that then go do the rest of the oil pan bolts??
Last edited by kevins2000LS1; 09-11-2010 at 12:20 PM.
09-11-2010, 01:43 PM
#28
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funny thing is i still dident fix my leak and its gotten worse, im going to do it this weekend along with a new radiator. i dont think the oil pan would need to be loosened
09-11-2010, 04:20 PM
#29
Did you read the procedure in Helm? GM is more concerned with concentricity of the crank seal to the crank snout than they are with the relationship of the timing cover to the oil pan. GM even has a special tool to make sure you get it right. Probably Kent-Moore or OTC. Most people don't use this special tool because they don't have it or they don't even know about it. If you mount the cover finger tight(front face bolts/without GM tool) and bring front of the oil pan up with the two long bolts that screw into the bottom face of the timing cover you should be pretty darn close to perfect even without the GM tool. You might also want to put a bead of RTV at the oil pan/timing cover/block junction point as an aid against oil leaks although many people myself included don't always use RTV and don't seem to have problems with oil leaking. Do you gradually tighten there fasteners? Don't over torque these small cover bolts. They are only 10mm so a 1/4th drive should be sufficient with a 3/8" drive being the upper limit. No need to repeat past horror stories of bolts that were broken off due to too much torque. The bolts are aluminum and in some applications the block is too.
