Head Bolts
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
Head Bolts I am about to install the heads on my brothers LS1 and need help installing/torquing down the head bolts properly. I've read that they aren't the same as traditional small blocks, so I need to know what to do so I can do it right the first time? I've read that you torque them down to the specified torque and then you have to turn the bolt another certain amount of degrees, how does this work? This is my first time working on an LS engine.
If you want to do it right you need a degree gage. There are many types from specific "torque" style wrenches tells you degrees not ft. lbs. They also make adapters that go between your ratchet and the socket. Plenty of people also use there eyes and judgment of what 90 degrees or what ever the needed turn is.
Make sure to follow the sequence by the book or you can warp the head or need a new head gasket after you get it back together and run it for a little bit!
Make sure to follow the sequence by the book or you can warp the head or need a new head gasket after you get it back together and run it for a little bit!
Well you aren't locking anything in but there final resting rotation is after your degrees are covered. What you are doing is streching the bolt just short of it breaking point so that it seals the head with all of it's potential strength.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 326
Likes: 7
From: Columbus,Ga
first and far most be sure to clean out all the head bolt holes with a blow gun. ls's blocks are not like the old sbc's that go all the way thru. you can damage the block! and don't forget to use new head bolts.
you need new head bolts and make sure you clean the holes out i have seen cracks that can happen.somebody will chime in here about the correct torque specs and certain degrees to turn it
All the info you need here.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=3
Cylinder Head Bolts (First Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence) 22 lb ft
Cylinder Head Bolts (Second Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence) 90 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolts (Final Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence-Excluding the Medium Length Bolts at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head) 90 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolts (Final Pass M11 Medium Length Bolts at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head in Sequence) 50 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolts (M8 Inner Bolts in Sequence) 22 lb ft
Cylinder Head Coolant Plug 15 lb ft
Cylinder Head Core Hole Plug 15 lb ft
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=3
Cylinder Head Bolts (First Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence) 22 lb ft
Cylinder Head Bolts (Second Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence) 90 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolts (Final Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence-Excluding the Medium Length Bolts at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head) 90 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolts (Final Pass M11 Medium Length Bolts at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head in Sequence) 50 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolts (M8 Inner Bolts in Sequence) 22 lb ft
Cylinder Head Coolant Plug 15 lb ft
Cylinder Head Core Hole Plug 15 lb ft
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Dec 1, 2009 at 01:20 AM.
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For what it's worth, I just mark a vertical line on the bolt head with a Sharpie. Then do the dergree turns by eye. I've done a few sets this way and never had an issue.
Wanted to add. You can always get arp head bolts. You just torque them normally per arp specs. Three passes and you're done.
Wanted to add. You can always get arp head bolts. You just torque them normally per arp specs. Three passes and you're done.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
