Are heads worth the money
I see alot of people cam only but how long are you guys satisfied with the power level? I dont want to regret not doing the heads at the same time.
I have the supporting mods for the heads: headers and intake, poly mounts, level 3 monster clutch.
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If you think you might want heads now is the time to do it (when getting the cam). Get it all done at once and get 1 tune done.
I personally think I am going the Trickflow route, but TSP does have some good head options.
- I am a fan of making more power, so as long as you can harness it and use it. i.e. set up the car with the correct tire, gear, and suspension and run fast times.
- Money is ALWAYS an issue, having more is better, but a Budget rules over all.
346 LS1's do VERY well when paired with a decent cam. With OUT touching the heads ( see compression ratio), but depending on the cam, a bump in C/R makes a world of difference.
Heads can be a funny thing where on one car it makes great power and on another, it show minimal gains which can be fustrating. Some people like to state its due to poor choices in parts but hey, we all cant have the best of the best and what one part worked well alone, most would expect a similar improvement when heads are added. Just saying be prepared incase you gain less then 15 hp. Most times I see a modest gain compared to a cam.
Gearing is a VERY important part of a cam and if I recall, a Streetsweeper cam has a soft under curve power where gearing will be critical. IMO if you even have a stock cammed car, given the race weight, you should be running 4.10's at min on a M6 trans.
Depending on how worked over the heads are, will determine how much power you will make. I am not a fan of Patriot heads (personal choice), but one would hope, a worked over LS6 head vs a stock LS6 would make more power.
Regardless, Stock LS6 heads will make more power then your stock heads, BUT if your going to do the work, might as well have them worked over.
IMO there is a cost involved in this, and as long as you want to go through with it, you can but a decent cam swap cost can be an easy 1,000$ which includes 400-500 in Dynotuning which IS REQUIRED. Actually the cost may be higher as you should do oil pump (ported ls6), timing chain (ls2), Springs (Patriot Dual w/ Ti Retainers), fluids, and gaskets and push rods (harded).
So if you have the extra $$$, go for heads too. The worst you would need to do down the road is tear down the motor again, put in head studs (ARP), swap the springs (so as long as they have good pressure, meaning TEST THEM) and then gasket and fluids. Also check PTV clearence and if you need, Flycut.
After install, take back to the dyno and check the A/F and see with new found compression, what power you can make. Most cars at this point will need injectors and possibly fuel pump depending on age and power your making so factor in that cost too.
IMO, I'd do the cam and see where it takes you. IMO a small bore cyl head is an investment and when you pop the motor, or decide to go bigger, there are better options out there with bigger valves and in the end, you might as well just added a 100-150 shot of Nitrous and a properly set up car (m6) CAN run into the 11's with a cam only upgrade so your not far off from needing a 6pt cage (11.49's) so take that into consideration too.
On this board, Studderin is running a 10.66 at 128 with this cam, ARH, ported TB and a Fast Intake, weighing in at around 3000lbs. I plan on putting a twelve bolt in it, just waiting for it to break, Im not even wasting any money on the girdle.
Thanks for the help
On this board, Studderin is running a 10.66 at 128 with this cam, ARH, ported TB and a Fast Intake, weighing in at around 3000lbs. I plan on putting a twelve bolt in it, just waiting for it to break, Im not even wasting any money on the girdle.
Thanks for the help
You COULD start trolling the classified section, and look for a set of used heads but be careful as sometimes heads could be cut too many times leaving you with nothing but a 1500$ door stop. If heads get messed up people cut them and it helps the C/R bump but too many times may lead to valve train geometry issues or even a too high of compression. I have seen it PERSONALLY this happen. Now the guy went right to a 402 cid Nitrous motor and he is one of our Dragrace Moderators.
IF money is an issue, like said by Disc, take the heads off, have them cut and have the bowl worked, thats cheap $$$ compared porting the runners.






