ls1/ls2 timing chain damper?
12-04-2009, 12:43 AM
#1
ls1/ls2 timing chain damper? i have a 5.3l engine that i did a cam swap and also got a ls2 timing chain set on but problem am having is that the ls2 timing chain has more play the the stock one for the 5.3l. which leads me to geting a damper,also being that my block has the holes for one already.
ive had the black ls2 damper but the bolts are 1.7, which is to short from where my block has the bores at.
the tan damper is 2.1 something... looks like what i need. but my parts dept says its discontinued.
modifying the ls2 seems the only way. but that plastic looks thin on the inside.
what to do? any suggestions?
ive had the black ls2 damper but the bolts are 1.7, which is to short from where my block has the bores at.
the tan damper is 2.1 something... looks like what i need. but my parts dept says its discontinued.
modifying the ls2 seems the only way. but that plastic looks thin on the inside.
what to do? any suggestions?
12-04-2009, 09:06 AM
#2
The black one is the only one still made. Did you add the previous holes? Am thinking that you must have because the newer blocks come pre-drilled (tapped) on the smaller spacing (1.7..."). You can re-tap new holes in-between the 2.1" spaced holes & use a smaller diameter bolt. I have used smaller diameter bolts on older blocks & then added JB Weld to fill the space between the smaller bolt & the hole in the dampner. You could also opt for a metal or nylon sleeve (a roll pin or something) placed over the smaller bolt to fill the space between the larger dampner hole & the smaller bolt, if you don't want to use JB weld. Either way, you'd want to fill the gap so that the dampner doesn't flop around.
I mention smaller bolts thninking that the same size bolt holes won't fit between the 2.1" holes without overlapping the existing holes. If they will , then use the same size bolt (tapped) holes.
I mention smaller bolts thninking that the same size bolt holes won't fit between the 2.1" holes without overlapping the existing holes. If they will , then use the same size bolt (tapped) holes.
12-04-2009, 01:52 PM
#4
It is. That's why I suggested tapping new holes in the block.
12-04-2009, 09:13 PM
#5
ya that sounds like a good starting point. instead of moding the damper to fit
tht bolt locations righ now. i would probably need to go with smaller bolts to as you said being that the bolts from the damper right now rest on both inside edges on the holes on the block.
tht bolt locations righ now. i would probably need to go with smaller bolts to as you said being that the bolts from the damper right now rest on both inside edges on the holes on the block.
12-05-2009, 12:47 AM
#6
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Someone over at corvetteforum modified the ls2 damper to fit the ls1 hole spacing: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ls1-block.html
Looks like a lot of work though.
Looks like a lot of work though.
12-05-2009, 11:48 AM
#7
Someone over at corvetteforum modified the ls2 damper to fit the ls1 hole spacing: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ls1-block.html
Looks like a lot of work though.
Looks like a lot of work though.
it looks like he filled the middle of thte damper with something and then bored it out. the reg dampers are not solid in the middle. what would be good to fill in the nylon or plastic like that? his looks aluminum?
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12-06-2009, 07:28 AM
#9
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I have taken aluminum dowel rod and run a die over it to create an aluminum slug, thread that into the existing holes with green loctite on it. After that sets for a day, drill and tap the new pattern. The new pattern will be partially in the slug installed.
The original guides in 1996 were steel pieces with plastic caps where the chain contacted it, the tan one was never used in production and cost was over 100 bux as I recall.
Kurt
The original guides in 1996 were steel pieces with plastic caps where the chain contacted it, the tan one was never used in production and cost was over 100 bux as I recall.
Kurt
12-06-2009, 12:45 PM
#10
I have taken aluminum dowel rod and run a die over it to create an aluminum slug, thread that into the existing holes with green loctite on it. After that sets for a day, drill and tap the new pattern. The new pattern will be partially in the slug installed.
The original guides in 1996 were steel pieces with plastic caps where the chain contacted it, the tan one was never used in production and cost was over 100 bux as I recall.
Kurt
The original guides in 1996 were steel pieces with plastic caps where the chain contacted it, the tan one was never used in production and cost was over 100 bux as I recall.
Kurt
01-19-2016, 02:51 PM
#12
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Not trying to dig up an old thread but, I am trying to gauge interest on LS1/6 dampers.
I have spent a considerable amount of time designing one and have worked with several different plastic companies to choose a material suitable for use. The finished part would be made of a nylon material and include all hardware necessary for bolting it in.
I have the design ready for production but I need to order 90 parts before the price becomes competitive. Before I lay out that kind of money I would like to make sure there is still an interest in them. Price point is looking like $50 give or take a few dollars and then shipping (via usps padded envelope).
This is not UHMW and not Delrin - both of those, while great for wear, will not hold up inside an engine. You can follow a little bit of my design process here...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...questions.html
I have spent a considerable amount of time designing one and have worked with several different plastic companies to choose a material suitable for use. The finished part would be made of a nylon material and include all hardware necessary for bolting it in.
I have the design ready for production but I need to order 90 parts before the price becomes competitive. Before I lay out that kind of money I would like to make sure there is still an interest in them. Price point is looking like $50 give or take a few dollars and then shipping (via usps padded envelope).
This is not UHMW and not Delrin - both of those, while great for wear, will not hold up inside an engine. You can follow a little bit of my design process here...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...questions.html
