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Noisey valvetrain (sewing machine)

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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 01:05 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by SGT20
Scoggin seems to have ALL the right answers. I'd like to hear it too, he deals with the stuff everyday (def. of a guru), so surely he must know.
and I'm sure your sarcasum will get a very warm responce
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 05:09 PM
  #42  
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No, honest. I'd really like to know, maybe I could get some figures to play around with and work up another story problem.
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 03:05 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by SGT20

I drew a little picture (not to scale of course, it's just paint), not to insult, just to help me describe my words.
That picture is the problem. Draw it full size in a CAD program at zero lash and at whatever preload you want and you will see the light.
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 05:33 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by voda1
That picture is the problem. Draw it full size in a CAD program at zero lash and at whatever preload you want and you will see the light.
I did that long ago. Just used paint as a simple concept drawing for visual aid.
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 09:02 PM
  #45  
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Oil pump pickup Oring swap to a LARGER UNIT WITH A PORTED PUMP worked on my buddy's H/C swap... and I REALLY wish they would sticky the solution thread... Granted it's NOT always the problem, but it IS an often OVERLOOKED part. THEN you get the flood of threads asking "Why is my caM insTaLl TickinG!?!?"

Most cams are quiet, but the aggressive lift cams get noisy because of the valves being closed so quickly.

But this is my list to a quiet valvetrain:

-PICK UP TUBE O RING!! ( )
-Use a pushrod Length checker and compensate properly for lifter preload.
-Check the rocker swipe -if you REALLY want to find the EXACT length PR's needed.
-When in doubt, replace lifters while the heads are off.
-If you have the money, go with a set of stock ratio RR's.

Last edited by bayer-z28; Feb 15, 2010 at 09:13 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 01:26 PM
  #46  
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^^ How can the pick up tube O ring effect valvetrain noise???? Someone please explain!
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 11:44 PM
  #47  
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Just a thought if you are using aftermarket roller rockers, and I get 2 rotations, does that mean 0.020 less length pushrods (if they even made that option)?
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Old Jun 9, 2014 | 10:07 PM
  #48  
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To clear up some of this math confusion, how about looking at it from a engineers perspective instead of an egg heads perspective? It's effectively a reversed fulcrum lever.

When you move the bolt or "Load" down with a fixed end fulcrum then the pushrod or "Effort" moves at a higher ratio to the rocker bolt ie "Load": it's ratio varies and if you think on it you can see how the farther away the valve or ""Fulcrum" gets (ie, higher the lift ratio) the lesser the ratio will be on the pushrod. In our case, just shooting from the hip since I refuse to do math at home I would guess a ratio of 1.25: considering what we are doing, that translates to probably 15 to 18 thousandths difference between your two ways of measuring it. Well within any listed or tribal knowledge range we are talking about.
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Old Jun 9, 2014 | 11:15 PM
  #49  
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Thanks for grave digging this as I think I need new push rods, I used 7.425 and got 1.83 turns when I see 1.25 - 1.5 is the sweet spot.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 07:57 AM
  #50  
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Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the fulcrum where the bolt goes through the rocker because that is the point at which it pivots making it a class 1 lever.

Last edited by 1 Slow WS6; Jun 11, 2014 at 10:14 AM.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 08:15 AM
  #51  
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Effort=cam, pushrod
Fulcrum= rocker pivoting on bolt
Load= rocker forcing valve to open

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