Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

I havent contacted you because there was no need to unless you want to pay for my rebuild The block was taken to a machine shop, bored 3.905 and then tanked. Before I put it together, I thoroughly washed it with Dawn and brushes, cleaned all the oil galleys and everything. The crank was my stock crank, which had 21,000 miles on it and was in perfect shape. I dont think 2 different shops would have missed it when one of them balanced it The pump is a new ARE ported and shimmed pump and the pickup tube was meticulously done as Ive read MANY horror stories about it. The pieces on the blue towel are metal, not a scotch brite pad I do have the front galley plug and the rear one with the blue O-ring also.

The pressure wasnt horrible, but not right. When cold, it had 60 idleing and I have pegged 100 via mechanical gauge that I installed trying to track it down, but when warm... idle was anywhere from 20-40 and WOT wouldnt go above 50. Thats bad for a shimmed pump.


I never said you were bad to deal with or not to buy from you, as Ive ordered quite a few things from you and still will do so. This post was just telling people to have a machine shop line hone/ bore and check everything even if its "new, overstock, or a blem"

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

It took me 11 months to put the motor together, I cant just crap the extra $1000 to pay someone for it. Plus I like the gratification. When people ask you who built your motor, you have to say ARE, I get to say, "I did". Theres a whole other respect you get. Anyone can bolt some parts to a car and make it fast, but can you build it? I have never paid someone to do anything for me, except when I didnt have the tools. Ive built/ rebuilt everything I had on my own... IE. my dirtbikes, my racing bikes, my other cars.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

I used the stock main bolts and ARP studs for the heads. The cylinders were honed with the studs and a aluminum deck plate and the mains were installed to get a perfect hone.

It is impossibe to send the block back. I dont have the $100 for the shipping, Im not going to wait an extra couple weeks and its already at the machine shop to get reline honed (Im just waiting for my main studs to come in). I live close to Tampa, FL..... If you did cover it, are you going to pay the $$$ for a rebore and hone to a 3.905 bore and a rebuild with new rings since it may have been the blocks fault?

I did notice one thing today while I was taking some parts to the shop... The 1st and 5th cap have different numbers engraved than the middle 3. Something to the tune of 772-xxxx and the middle 3 have 456-xxxx. I believe that was the numbers. Hows someone supposed to know to look at all the main caps for some very small hard to read etched numbers? Harlen is the one who told me to look for it earlier.

This wasnt a bash to you as I never brought you up. I just said a blem block, it could have been from anywhere. I purposely left your name out of it Plus, unless youre going to pay for the rebuild I have to do, whats the point?

Scott Turvey

I read through these posts and the ones on the "other" forum, and I saw mention of someone not liking plastigauge. It may seem redundant, but I check bores/hones with BOTH a tool and then plastigauge. It's the sign of a paranoid I guess.

I looked at valvegod's website and I didn't see where the blocks we're advertised as ready to run, only never run. Maybe it's been changed, but as the subject has already been beat to death, I won't go on about treating every build as ground-up job.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

The reciept says: Engine Block, Bare 2001/2002 LS6 Style Fully Machined with main caps (Never Run)

What does "Fully Machined" mean to you?

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95246

Scott Turvey

Honestly? Not a damned thing (please take this in the light-hearted way it was intended).

As I am going to be putting in thousands of dollars in parts and labor, not to mention the parts and block have never "seen" each other before, I have everything done to the block as though it was a rough core. I've never used a bearing or bolt that came with a block I've bought, and the caps are used only after line honing/boring.

Like I said, for the amount I'm putting in the motor, it isn't worth trying any other way.

valvegod

iTrader: (6)

Carl, Yes I would have paid for the parts, and replace the block if it was bad. Point of interest, any modifications to the block can actually cause the block to shift or change structural shape. Boring the block, can cause the block to shift and the line bore to go out of spec. Not saying this caused it, but you never mentioned that in your first post. The main caps are stamped with 1,2,3,4,5, although they all look the same, they cannot be interchanged. Where did the metal come from? the coating from the bearings would not produce metal like you pulled from the sump pickup? When you get on the board and post issues like this without knowing what the cause is, yes you can hurt my business severely. In reality, this can be viewed as slander, as slander is making an assumption about a person or their business without having fact or proof. People should have hard facts before making these types of statements.

Shaun (valvegod@aol.com)
248.496.7887

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Sorry to hear about the motor.

At the rate ARE has problems...I'd get that confirmed from at least one other source.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

The caps are in the right order , I was told to look for a serial number on them thats engraved. As I told you in the email:

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

LOL... I called a few other sponsers about the same thing too

valvegod

iTrader: (6)

Carl, I never said the block was a blem. Some of the blocks I get are surplus, which is an over run extra stock, and nothing wrong. You stated it was a blem. I do get blems also, but they are for cosmetic reasons and not structural. I do not sell parts as NEW, and also I cover the warranty, so there is no legal issues.

Yes, I do sell fully machined, ready to assemble, so if there is an issue with an item I cover it. This is my point exactly, but I am not convinced it is a block issue. There is other variables that can cause this type of damage.

If you would have sent the block and parts back, I would have inspected, take care of what needs done and assemble the short block before shipping.


Enough said, good luck on what you decide on the rebuild, but let me know If I can help.

Shaun (valvegod@aol.com)

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

Thats cool man, I never wanted anything from you, but just to let people know to take extra precautions when buying parts, that was all

David Plum

Align bore can be ck'ed with straight edge for alignment should be within .001 of each other ck housing dia. then install bearings mic and ck against crank .025-.030 there is a high and low on tolerance could have big crank tight housings insuff. clearance ck bearing shell with ball mic they can differ up to .0005 swap them around to get desired clearance be sure crank was polished after turned and not bent

Reboot

iTrader: (5)

I recently purchased a LS6 block from Shaun for my 383 build up. Before I purchased the block, I spoke to three seperate engine builders (all of which were sponsors). They all said that they buy blocks and parts from from Shaun all the time, and he's a very stand up guy with *Great* prices. When I contacted Shaun he was very clear about the fact that the block was surplus and never run. He also said he cannot sell them as new, but stands behind everything he sells (something I think he made clear in his posts).

In our quest for speed, things can and do break. It's part of the game. I'm sure there are also problems with some new LS6 in the crate blocks from GM as well. I just don't think it's fair to make a post that can impact someones business without at least giving them a shot at working something out.

Anyway, I'm sorry for your loss. But, I also think you should have given the guy a shot at making it good if the block was in fact the problem.

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

I have no problem saying a professional built my bottom end. And as far as you getting gratifiction..more power to ya, I can see that. But until I have the tools i need and the time...I will probably have my next botom built as well. I like to know its done right. Everything else on my car I did including some very unique things no one else is doing.

And you would only get respect if the bottom end you built lasted more than 3000 miles

Get that thing running right so you can go out on Sat nights and have some fun dammit.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

LOL.... I can say I tried. To me, its better than saying "I had so and so build it for me" Then if something does go wrong, they try to find every reason in the book to not cover it. Every shop does it, dealers do it... you know how good ol' GM backs their warrenty on the f-body

Damn it, you need to slow down a bit to give everyone else a chance to race ya

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

Again, to reiterate, Ill still buy from him as he does have the best prices and always have what you need. Hes a great person to do business with and knows what hes talking about. This thread wasnt to bash him in any way, thats why I didnt say where I got it from. Anyone can be selling a blem, overstock, or used block. He replyed, so I had to answer back.

CHRISPY

Valvegod has been great to us folks in the LS1 community. He has great prices and great service.

Scott Turvey

After re-reading this thread, I'd have to say it stands as a testament to several things besides being careful about buying "blem" parts.

1. All parts requiring clearance/alignment should be checked before use, with the components they're going to be used with.

2. Unless you (the buyer) take all the pieces to a machinist, never trust "matched" sets (e.g. rotating assemblies) without having them gone over by a qualified tech-type person.

3. If a person doesn’t know the particulars about a given engine series, e.g. how to tell what main caps go where, whether rods are on-center or off-center, that person shouldn’t be building them. Or at least they shouldn’t be surprised when there are problems. Pissed, sure; surprised no.

4. Always be very, very careful how you word posts or comments. Remember, there are three parts to every statement; what you said, what other people heard (or read), and what you meant.

5. Don’t ever make a comment or post regarding a problem and include a vendors name unless you have spoken to them first. That includes telling them you’re going to use their name when you do post and what you intend on saying about them.

6. If there is no intention to cast doubt on a person or business, don’t include statements from them. There will be a natural association by the reader between the quote and where the quote came from when you are trying to prove a point, good or bad.

7. Make sure statements you make in one place (forum) and another (a different forum) are consistent. To do otherwise immediately places the author in the position of appearing to be disingenuous.