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Is my 6.0L Iron Block damaged?

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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 06:59 PM
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Question Is my 6.0L Iron Block damaged?

I finally got my 6.0L iron block so hopefully in the next year, I can start my stroker.

The block that I bought is from a guy on Ebay that has a parts business and goes by the name of bpparts.

I bought the block from him outside of Ebay, but I paid through PayPal. He sounds like a great guy and told me that if I have any problems with the block, he'll take care of it.

So today, I got a chance to open the box and from what it looks like, the block is damaged in the cam areas from cyl 1-2 and 7-8. I haven't called the guy yet and I want everyone's opinion, is the block damaged?

Check out the pics. The block was shipped with the valley cover side down.
Attached Thumbnails Is my 6.0L Iron Block damaged?-holes-cyl-1-2.jpg   Is my 6.0L Iron Block damaged?-holes-cyl-7-8.jpg   Is my 6.0L Iron Block damaged?-holes-whole-block-shot.jpg  
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Billiumss
I finally got my 6.0L iron block so hopefully in the next year, I can start my stroker.

The block that I bought is from a guy on Ebay that has a parts business and goes by the name of bpparts.

I bought the block from him outside of Ebay, but I paid through PayPal. He sounds like a great guy and told me that if I have any problems with the block, he'll take care of it.

So today, I got a chance to open the box and from what it looks like, the block is damaged in the cam areas from cyl 1-2 and 7-8. I haven't called the guy yet and I want everyone's opinion, is the block damaged?

Check out the pics. The block was shipped with the valley cover side down.
That's not damage, it's the way GM makes the oil drain-back holes in the valley. LSx blocks are the same way.

I snapped some pics of an LS6 to show you:
Attached Thumbnails Is my 6.0L Iron Block damaged?-top.jpg   Is my 6.0L Iron Block damaged?-bottom.jpg  
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 09:03 PM
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I agree w/scott
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 11:33 PM
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When i saw that for the first time a year ago i fliped also. Block looks good have fun with the stroker
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 04:35 AM
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Yup you're good to go as long as there is no extra wear on the main saddles.. Which can't be seen unless you pop the main caps off.. So far the pics you've posted look fine..
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 05:14 AM
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Thanks guys.... I feel much better about it now.

One other thing kinda concerns me though, in the last rear main, there is rust in the oil passage, will the machine shop clean that up for me? (check out the pic above)

So it looks like when the block is cast, GM justs knock out the metal to make a drain hole. You'd think they could have machined the holes...

I want to take it to a machine shop for them to check it out to make sure there aren't any cracks in it. I guess that's called sonic testing? They will also have to clean the block first, right?

About how much will just cleaning and sonic testing going to cost me? Anything else I should have them check for?

I won't be getting any machine work done until next fall, so after it checks out fine, I guess I just oil it down good and bag it, correct?

Thanks guys for all your input. This is one of my life's goals, to build an engine by myself, that's why I'm asking all the questions and gathering info. I do a lot more technical things at work (build and test Cell Phone systems), so this shouldn't be bad at all.

Bill
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 05:19 AM
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Depending on what you want to do, I wouldn't worry about sonic testing unless you're going to bore it more than .030".. Having it cleaned in the vat runs about $80.. Then you will need new cam bearings$60-$100 depending on what you buy..
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 06:16 AM
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Make sure you tell whoever does it your specific concerns about the rust, cracks and any other issues and make sure it's written on the work order.
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I looked at the pics for Bill before he posted them. I have done a few engines, but never noticed how the holes were shaped before. I asked him to post here because it didn't seem normal to me. Shows how much I pay attention
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