Stripped head bolt...insert needed! Help!!!
Stripped head bolt...insert needed! Help!!! Hey guys. If you haven't seen my rebuild thread, I am in the process of rebuilding my motor and tranny out of my 2001 T/A. Everything is done with the tranny and I sent the block off to get machined.....that is where the problem came in. My machinist got one side of the block done, put the torque plate on the other side and managed to pull the threads out of one of the holes. That was back in September. I have gotten the run around about why he hasnt been able to get the tools and insert needed to fix the job and I have had enough. I have a bench full of fun parts ready to go together, but as you all no its kinda hard with no block! So......brings me to the point of this thread. I contacted full-torque who makes inserts and they will only sell the kit with 8 inserts and the whole deal is $800 plus bucks. Does anyone have an insert they would sell and a tool I could rent as I have no need in purchasing all the tooling. My machinist said the kit he ordered should be in the first of the week....but I doubt it the way it has been going. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I want to get this thing together (TSP cam, lingefelter heads, ported LS6 pump, etc.) Thanks guys, let me know what you think.
We had to use a time-cert on my block had a ARP head bolt suck the threads right out of the block. I would use studs if I were you next time around and not have to worry about it. If you know someone that works at a car dealership they have them on hand a buddy let me borrow theirs.
Thanks for the replys....my machinist said he had ordered a kit like the time-sert a month ago and it hasnt arrived. I think I am just getting the run around. Do you guys know if the Kent-Moore kits come with a jig to make sure the hole is drilled at the correct angle?
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Thanks for the replys....my machinist said he had ordered a kit like the time-sert a month ago and it hasnt arrived. I think I am just getting the run around. Do you guys know if the Kent-Moore kits come with a jig to make sure the hole is drilled at the correct angle?
Hint: get the -100 and -300 kits from eBay, you will have them in under a week... those are genuine Time-Sert kits
(if you don't buy them, your machinist will for full price from Kent Moore and charge you the full amount plus his commission).
Search eBay for "J-42385-100"...
you should be able to see one for about $100-$200... make sure the pic shows all the bits...
For example see here.
you should be able to see one for about $100-$200... make sure the pic shows all the bits...
For example see here.
Last edited by joecar; Dec 30, 2009 at 02:43 AM.
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I know that is what I need to do...I appreciate your help. The problem is he apparently ordered a kit already, so if I order another kit I may be out the money if he receives his before mine. Stuck in a bad place!
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So if you rent and buy stuff from people on here you are in that position too. If he has given you that much trouble about recieving it, tell him to cancel it, order it yourself and either take it to him or do it your self.
Well, I bit the bullet and bought the kit. Got a good deal...the tap kit with inserts plus the alignment tool for $200.00. Should be here on Wednesday and we'll be back in business. Hoping to work a deal out with my engine builer on trading the tool for the work, guess we'll see what happens.
Sorry I missed this thread, but you could've saved yourself alot of money by getting the helicoil from O'Reillys (most parts stores have them) for several bucks!! The time-sert inserts are stronger and I have heard the helicoils are weaker for head bolt application. Plus I dont think the helicoil kits at the Autoparts stores are the right metric size........but if they are, that is good to know for next time.
Did your machinist mention anything about what he was using for bolts to hold the torque plates down...such as...stock torque to yield head bolts...did he mention wether or not he properly cleaned the bolts and holes before attempting to bolt the plate down?
If he tries to stiff you on the price, I'd just say "F you" and walk out the door...another block isn't THAT expensive, and you can pay the same money to another shop to machine it too.
If he tries to stiff you on the price, I'd just say "F you" and walk out the door...another block isn't THAT expensive, and you can pay the same money to another shop to machine it too.
Your title stated "stripped head bolt", but after I read it, was it the actual hole on the block that got stripped out? If so, then I don't know if an auto parts store has it, but it wouldn't hurt to look in the future.
I had a similar problem, but mine was the head bolt hole that attaches to the header. O'Reillys had the correct size we needed. We put the helicoil in with a crescent wrench and it worked flawlessly.
Shouldn't your machinist be coughing up the bill anyway?
I had a similar problem, but mine was the head bolt hole that attaches to the header. O'Reillys had the correct size we needed. We put the helicoil in with a crescent wrench and it worked flawlessly.
Shouldn't your machinist be coughing up the bill anyway?
The shop should be responsible for getting that hole fixed, not you. They stripped the threads for whatever reason, not you. Good luck getting it fixed.
What's the name of the shop?
What's the name of the shop?
Yeah that is misleading...it is actually the threads in the block. The machinist is covering the cost, it was just taking him forever to get the tools so I bypassed him, bought the tools and now working on trading the tool for his work. Wheeling and dealing.
hope he trades you out, that to me would be the minimum of fair
