PCV Hose/Valve
12-25-2009, 02:52 PM
#1
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PCV Hose/Valve So I was changing my oil the other day on my z28 (Royal Purple 10W-40) and I noticed my PCV valve/Hose was looking bad.
Upon taking the valve off I found the passage was almost completely blocked and corroded.
I know I can get the valve for cheap but a new hose would cost me over $100.
Is there a cheaper solution?
I was thinking of going to home depot and buying a small rubber tube, cuting off the existing hose where the corrosion is and duct taping the pipe, hose, and valve. I know it sounds ghetto but I figure as long as it creates a vacuum it'll work.
While I'm at it can someone explain to me exactly what the PCV hose/valve does?
Upon taking the valve off I found the passage was almost completely blocked and corroded.
I know I can get the valve for cheap but a new hose would cost me over $100.
Is there a cheaper solution?
I was thinking of going to home depot and buying a small rubber tube, cuting off the existing hose where the corrosion is and duct taping the pipe, hose, and valve. I know it sounds ghetto but I figure as long as it creates a vacuum it'll work.
While I'm at it can someone explain to me exactly what the PCV hose/valve does?
12-25-2009, 03:01 PM
#2
The Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, or PCV valve, is a one-way valve that assists with the continual evacuation of gases from inside a gasoline/petrol internal combustion engine's crankcase.
As an engine operates, high-pressure gases are contained within the combustion chamber and prevented from passing into the crankcase (containing the crankshaft and other parts) between the side of the piston and the cylinder bore by piston rings which seal against the cylinder. However, some amount of gas always leaks past the piston rings into the crankcase. This amount is very small in a new or properly rebuilt engine, provided that the piston rings and cylinder walls are correctly "broken in", and increases as the engine wears. Scratches on the cylinder walls or piston rings, such as those caused by foreign objects entering the engine, can cause large amounts of leakage. This leaked gas is known as blow-by because the pressure within the cylinders blows it by the piston rings. If this blow-by gas could not escape then pressure would build up within the crankcase.
Before the invention of crankcase ventilation in 1928, the engine oil seals were designed to withstand this pressure, oil leaking to the road surface was accepted, and the dipstick was screwed in. The hydrocarbon rich gas would then diffuse through the oil in the seals into the atmosphere. Subsequently, it became an emissions requirement as well as a functional necessity that the crankcase have a ventilation system. This must maintain the crankcase at slightly less than atmospheric pressure and recycle the blow-by gas back into the engine intake. However, due to the constant circulation of the oil within the engine, along with the high speed movement of the crankshaft, an oil mist is also passed through the PCV system and into the intake. The oil is then either burnt during combustion, or settles along the intake tract, causing a gradual build-up of residue inside the inlet path. For this reason many engine tuners choose to replace the PCV system with an oil catch can and breather filter which vents the blow-by gases directly to atmosphere and retains the oil in a small tank (or returns it to the sump), although this technically fails to meet most engine emission legislation.
Do you live in a strict emissions state? If not I might suggest this.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-your-pcv.html
As an engine operates, high-pressure gases are contained within the combustion chamber and prevented from passing into the crankcase (containing the crankshaft and other parts) between the side of the piston and the cylinder bore by piston rings which seal against the cylinder. However, some amount of gas always leaks past the piston rings into the crankcase. This amount is very small in a new or properly rebuilt engine, provided that the piston rings and cylinder walls are correctly "broken in", and increases as the engine wears. Scratches on the cylinder walls or piston rings, such as those caused by foreign objects entering the engine, can cause large amounts of leakage. This leaked gas is known as blow-by because the pressure within the cylinders blows it by the piston rings. If this blow-by gas could not escape then pressure would build up within the crankcase.
Before the invention of crankcase ventilation in 1928, the engine oil seals were designed to withstand this pressure, oil leaking to the road surface was accepted, and the dipstick was screwed in. The hydrocarbon rich gas would then diffuse through the oil in the seals into the atmosphere. Subsequently, it became an emissions requirement as well as a functional necessity that the crankcase have a ventilation system. This must maintain the crankcase at slightly less than atmospheric pressure and recycle the blow-by gas back into the engine intake. However, due to the constant circulation of the oil within the engine, along with the high speed movement of the crankshaft, an oil mist is also passed through the PCV system and into the intake. The oil is then either burnt during combustion, or settles along the intake tract, causing a gradual build-up of residue inside the inlet path. For this reason many engine tuners choose to replace the PCV system with an oil catch can and breather filter which vents the blow-by gases directly to atmosphere and retains the oil in a small tank (or returns it to the sump), although this technically fails to meet most engine emission legislation.
Do you live in a strict emissions state? If not I might suggest this.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-your-pcv.html
12-25-2009, 03:02 PM
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So I was changing my oil the other day on my z28 (Royal Purple 10W-40) and I noticed my PCV valve/Hose was looking bad.
Upon taking the valve off I found the passage was almost completely blocked and corroded.
I know I can get the valve for cheap but a new hose would cost me over $100.
Is there a cheaper solution?
I was thinking of going to home depot and buying a small rubber tube, cuting off the existing hose where the corrosion is and duct taping the pipe, hose, and valve. I know it sounds ghetto but I figure as long as it creates a vacuum it'll work.
While I'm at it can someone explain to me exactly what the PCV hose/valve does?
Upon taking the valve off I found the passage was almost completely blocked and corroded.
I know I can get the valve for cheap but a new hose would cost me over $100.
Is there a cheaper solution?
I was thinking of going to home depot and buying a small rubber tube, cuting off the existing hose where the corrosion is and duct taping the pipe, hose, and valve. I know it sounds ghetto but I figure as long as it creates a vacuum it'll work.
While I'm at it can someone explain to me exactly what the PCV hose/valve does?
The pcv keeps the oil in good shape and keeps the oil vapors outta the air. Its parts of emissions put is very helpful to the life of the engine. Get a 3/8 t fitting, about 3 foot of 3/8 fuel line/emissions line and run it to a new 5.3 fixed orifice truck valve making something that looks like this...
12-25-2009, 03:04 PM
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BTW, you can do all of this within 20 bucks including gas to someone to get everything. Each side of the valve covers has a spot for the 3/8 line to slip over, then just merge everything to the TB. Its really easy once you rip ALLLLLL of that stock crap off
12-25-2009, 07:24 PM
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I live in florida and we have basically no emission laws here so I will look into that.
How bad is it for the engine for me to be running with the PCV hose open to the air?
How bad is it for the engine for me to be running with the PCV hose open to the air?
12-25-2009, 08:12 PM
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Sounds good I think I'll do that instead of going with the vented option.
So if I cut off the end of the existing PCV hose thats everything I need to connect up to the TB?
Wheres the best place to get 3/8 fuel line/emissions line? I live right next to a discount auto parts store.
So if I cut off the end of the existing PCV hose thats everything I need to connect up to the TB?
Wheres the best place to get 3/8 fuel line/emissions line? I live right next to a discount auto parts store.
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12-26-2009, 04:38 AM
#9
I woudn't waste my time putting stupid strap back on the pcv valve. The fixed orifice has the advantage of flowing alot less slowing down the oiling problem. I wouldn't use it unless you are having trouble.
12-26-2009, 11:22 AM
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Another bonus of that pcv valve is it never needs to be replaced, and it is supposed to be a direct replacement for our stock ones. I didnt put the strap on as my car is a 98 with a completely different system. Rip ALL of that old pcv system out. Anyplace with good 3/8 fuel line will work.
12-27-2009, 08:42 PM
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Is there a guide explaing how to put all of this together?
A list of supplies and what not. So far I need to get a 3/8 t fitting, about 3 foot of 3/8 fuel line/emissions line, and a 5.3 fixed orifice truck valve.
I plan to try to do it this tuesday.
A list of supplies and what not. So far I need to get a 3/8 t fitting, about 3 foot of 3/8 fuel line/emissions line, and a 5.3 fixed orifice truck valve.
I plan to try to do it this tuesday.
12-29-2009, 04:46 AM
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The pcv keeps the oil in good shape and keeps the oil vapors outta the air. Its parts of emissions put is very helpful to the life of the engine. Get a 3/8 t fitting, about 3 foot of 3/8 fuel line/emissions line and run it to a new 5.3 fixed orifice truck valve making something that looks like this...
Does it not matter which way the valve faces?
12-29-2009, 04:39 PM
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The pictures and mine are 3/8ths end facing the intake
12-30-2009, 02:55 AM
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They didn't have the fixed orifice type available so I just bought the original design. If it stops working within 50k miles I'll just buy the fixed one. So would the bottom picture be correct with the brass fitment connected to the long hose going back or the valve part connected to the long hose?
Also, does anyone have a picture where the brass T is connected. I kind of understand what to do but a pic would help so much.
Just got the car tinted and am about to put a new lid on. Should be sexy.
Also, does anyone have a picture where the brass T is connected. I kind of understand what to do but a pic would help so much.
Just got the car tinted and am about to put a new lid on. Should be sexy.
Last edited by Nate02Z28; 12-30-2009 at 03:07 AM.