Please excuse my ignorance with internal engine stuff. First off I have a 2000 LS1 with 18k on a fresh rebuild in my DD. I took it in to the shop for a head and intake swap. (The shop is very reputable in the San Antonio area btw). During dyno tuning it spun a bearing and my crank was shot.
Now I don't have tons of cash but obviously need a crank. Now I'm trying to figure out my options and try to save cash and not do a total rebuild. Should I just get a new stock crank? For another 250 I can get a forged one, worth it in a DD? Also is it just as easy to just put a stroker crank in and give myself some cubes? I want to use my current rods and pistons. Rods are resized stock and the pistons are true flat tops. I have 5.3 heads with 63cc chambers. If I can stroke it, would this raise the compression too high for street use? Using a quick online compression calculator gave me 11.4 comp. That seems too high for street gas to me.

Any help is greatly appreciated,

 

U should be able to find a used stock crank pretty cheap in good condition. The stroker crank is a good idea but you will need clearancing on the block so the crank journals won't hit. Also different pistons if you want to keep them from comming out of the bore too much. 11.4 compression isn't that bad for a street car on pump gas. You just need a good tuner to make it all work. Personally I'd just put a stock crank in. I wouldn't do a stroker set up unless your ready to do it right w/ forged rods and pistons and all of the accompaning component like proper head and cam selection for the added cubes and longer stroke.

 

Stick with a stock crank. They are a good piece. I guess the big question that comes to my mind is why it spun a bearing? Just slapping a crank in without checking all components for size and condition is not wise IMO.

 

They said they don't know why. My pressure has always been great and never heard a chirp out of her and always ran mobile 1.
What they said was that dyno tuning is brutal and if you have a weak part it will fail on the dyno.

I was afraid stroking it would require clearancing. I can afford a cheap complete stroker kit, but after machining and everything, it would be out of range for me.
It sux

 

I am older but do remember the days when I had limited funds and tried to cut corners to get a car back on the road. To be honest, it never really worked out that well.
My advice is to pull the motor and do it right. Take the financial hit now and never look back

 

That's just it, I'm still recovering from 2yrs ago when she overheated and caused a rebuild to be needed and cost me $7500. I still haven't paid it off completely and this is hard to swallow. I wish I knew someone who had a cheap shortblock to sell who I can trust. Maybe I'll post a WTB in the classifieds. I don't get it, I don't race.. It's my DD that I just put my foot into it from time to time and like it haul Azz when I do. I change oil regularly and use mobile one.