So I guess the question now is...where is the best place to get an iron block?

 

Got mine at gmpartsdirect.com for $595 plus shipping.

 

Not sure the answer to all your questions but can tell you i ran a 4.125 CALLIES crank on a 4.060 iron overbore and that large stroke was way WRONG for the geometry of that motor leading to major oil consumption and reluctor wheel/crank failure!!!! If you stick with a 4.00 stroke and NO LARGER you are GOOD TO GO regardless of the bore!! ALso, i would never use a CALLIES crank again on a LS1 motor as a brand new 2500.00 forged Crank should NOT HAVE FAILED after only 3K miles!!!

 

No Juice
to answer your questions the bore and stroke of a 6.0L is 4 x 3.622
and i don't think that the geometry of the motor will be affected if it has a bigger stroke than bore it'll just add additional cubes, in my opinion but i could be wrong

 

I have a 4.060 bore with 4.075 with no oil pressure consumption problem or oil presure issues. You really need to tack weld the reluctor on the crank in a couple spots, and make sure the piston skirts clear the reluctor wheel ok. The 4.030 is the way to go with a 4" stroke. Save the money on balancing for a nitrous kit.

 

I'm going with a stock 6.0L block and crank - couldn't afford the 4" crank on top of everything else I need. I'm building a complete shortblock while my car is still driveable (daily driver) so I need a bunch of stuff.

I got my block and crank, as well as the rest of the internals from someone who is not a sponsor - I guess there is a rule against posting about non-sponsors - but everyone on here knows him.

I am going with:
-new stock 6.0L 4" bore block and 3.622" stroke crank
-Federal Mogul/Clevite main & rod bearings
-Manley 6.1" forged rods
-Diamond forged, coated, 4.00" bore pistons & moly rings
-Melling oil pump
-billet/C5R timing set
-custom ground cam from Lethal EFI
-reuse my stock LS6 heads with the chambers radiused for 4" bore

 

i was told that the Callies Cranks had defects on there first few shippments with there reluctor wheel's failing which in turn is why Eagel had taken so long to release there cranks.

 

Now why am i not surprised to HEAR THAT!!!!!! If you ask me, CALLLIES needs to stick with JOHN FORCE's MOTOR and steer clear of LS1 motors!!!!

 

Thanks for all the help guys. i am sure to have more ??s as the build progresses. I went to my local dealership and the quoted me 775 on the block. From a performance stand point, what can i expect from the 408. How wll it compare to the 427?

 

Rob if you go the 427 route you'll have to spend a minimum of $2100-$2450 on the block itself, no machine work done other than a sleeved block or MID block.

 

i jujst ordered mine Eagle 4inCrank and it was 829.30 shipped

 

Will my numbers be comparable? How much of a difference will there be in 19 cu?

 

Did anyone notice a difference in handling with the iron block?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ATTI2D

Will my numbers be comparable?

They should be better.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ATTI2D

How much of a difference will there be in 19 cu?

Probably not that much that you can “feel”.

Let me better explain why my answers seem to be at odds with each other at first glance.
The 19 CI from the bore would not “feel” like as big a difference as 19 from a stroke when you’re on the street. What I mean by this is engine displacement added by a larger bore typically (everything else being equal) shows a larger horsepower increase (vs. its effect on torque), where a stroke increase will add proportionally more torque. In a street situation (<5000 RPM) our butts can really feel a change in torque, where horsepower is typically borne out in better ET’s. That’s why my answers seem to be at odds with each other at first glance.

 

Thanks Scott. So the 427 would boast more hp where the 408 would have more torque... So in the end both would get you down the track at about the same et.

 

No, the 427 would have more of both. I just meant that a CI increase based on stroke only will have more TQ than a CI based on bore only. In the case of the 427, which has the 408's stroke increase as well as more bore, it will be better all around. So if you were looking for which purchase would give the most bang for the buck, the 408 would be the more noticeable. Sorry for the confusion. Hope this clears it up.

 

The 427 would be an all around better motor because it would gain 20-40 hp plus some torque, and at 105 lbs lighter would feel faster assuming you have some way to maintain traction. It is just a higher price of addmission. The 409 is just a cheaper route for those that don't want to spend the money on a 3k block. I did an iron 422 and the car handles the same as before. There is no traction from a stop or through 2nd gear for that matter.

 

Strokedls1 so whats the difference in your setup compared to the 409ci? Where does your setup peak horsepower wise and at what rpm? I hear the 409ci is better for nitrous because if you have a mishap you have more to bore..