where can i get ahold of Predator-Z or Patrick G.? what company they work at? and to get a custom cam spec out for me would i have to pay first or can they tell me the spec before i decide to order

 

Lol, you make it sound like they pick a random cam spec for you and grind it out without telling you what it is. HAHA!!! You tell those companies that can grind the cam exactly what you want and they will give you exactly what you want. You will get a cam card that shows you all the info you would want to know, and possibly more in your case.

Just PM either one of them. Patrick, for a low price of 25$ will decide all the way down to the exact specs of the valve events, what cam you should get. Most likely you will be ordering a custom grind if you go with his advice.

 

Pewter Z:

Listen, I know you are excited about making the most power and having a 'cool' sounding cam. But, I am strongly advising you to not 'over-cam' a car that has the LS6 intake. I am not going to 'knock' the MS3, but it is not the best cam for your combination. It is true it will allow you to spin your car to higher RPMs. But, that is self-defeating. The LS6 intake makes the best power up to ~ 6300 Rpm's. So running a cam like the MS3..all you are doing is spinning additional RPM's via the driveshaft, but it is questionable whether you are actually gaining usable power.

So, I would strongly advise you to take at least 1-3 months to decide. That cam that Ed Curtis posted..228/232 111 LSA is very close to being a perfect cam for your car. You see, some of these guys like Ed have been doing it for years. All you have to do is PM a guy like Ed Curtis or Patrick G, or Predator-Z and they will help. Granted they are busy, but I have always received answers when I PM them. If you just ask them in a mature and professional manner, they are very glad to help.

OrangePeel has also had some great suggestions. O.K., I will stop me preaching here, but here is what a lot of people do not know. You can take almost any cam..drop the idle and spark advance..add some airflow, and the idle will sound like a pro-stock car. It is a 'dumb' way of doing it, but for a day I dropped my idle to almost 600 Rpms, spark down to 16 degrees..added 1.5 g/s of airflow..and may car shook from the cam lope, and had the most bad-*** idle you could think of.

But, I do not drive that way..it was too much for me. But if you want to learn about cams..you will always be disappointed when you 'over-cam' a car.

Thats my last lecture on it. Hope I did not offend you or others. I am just trying to speak from experience. I am not a cam expert. But, I have a good understanding of cam/valve events..and have tried 5 different cams in the last 6-8 years.

Sorry for the long thread. Hope some of this helps you.

Good luck.

..WeathermanShawn..

 

228/234 @ 112+2 is what I'm lookin at... Type 228/234 cam on YouTube or search cvaught to hear it... Sound great to me and is good for what Im doing so I'll prolly go that route. Again thanks guys for the help!!!

 

I have the MS3 and made 410 rwhp with mods in sig, car pulls HARD all the way to the top. Dont have track slips yet but on a GPS (not credable) it clocked 11.4

Driveability is good, i have little to no cam buck (thanks Joe) and still get 25 mpg on the highway doing 75-80 mph. On my 113 LSA it lopes very nicely through the x-pipe and chambered dumps. VERY LOUD but sounds good. Ill try and get you a sound clip if you want.

 

Give us a call when you get some free time. I think with a little discussing your car & goals we can point you to a camshaft that will accomplish your goals. Everyone has a opinion, but we've got tons of R&D time on the engine dyno. I bet we can help select a camshaft that'll work well for you!

 

Also remember if you decide your not worried about the engine dyno testing data & just want a custom grind give us a call. We'll make you a good deal on a custom grind as well!!

 

TSP you stepped up first so I'll be giving you all a call first and discuss the plan of action... StangBeater thank you as well.

Also btw I've never rode in a stalled car, if this whole cam game is about choosing a good cam that allows drivability, what kind of drivability am I supposed to deal with when having a 4k stall? Since it's gonna lack drivabilty right there, would it make since to keep drivabililty in mind in picking a cam?... That's another question Ive been wanting to ask.

Aaron

 

IMO,
If your car is a DD, and you like cruise some of the time make drivability a factor in choosing a cam.