LS1 Timing Chain Dampener
I mentioned the ls3 one in the last thread. Thought it was the same one lol. I got my ls3 dampers with my ls2 chains from Yank in the classified's. ls3 damper was 20 bucks. Got 2 of them and chains (one for my l33 block, one for my 4.8 soon to be race engine).
I can't see an issue of the bolts being a little close to the outside, since it will still be held flat from the material in between and up to the edge of threads. Also, if you're doing this to an iron block, you could just run slightly shorter bolts and blind tap the hole, since a cast iron block should hold threads a little better.
I can't see an issue of the bolts being a little close to the outside, since it will still be held flat from the material in between and up to the edge of threads. Also, if you're doing this to an iron block, you could just run slightly shorter bolts and blind tap the hole, since a cast iron block should hold threads a little better.
Hi Team,
I eventually got around to trying the Ls3 Damper on my pre-tapped '02 LS1.
The holes on the block were too far apart so....
1) Two tiny welds hold the bolt plate to the damper. You can see them and use a dremel to cut them off (between the damper body and bolt plate).
2) Enlarge the holes on the damper body to encompass the stock LS1 holes
Now, either washers or shorter bolts must be used to seat into the stock holes. I made a new bolt plate and welded it to the body with my awesome welding skill
I also cut the head skirts off the bolts and cut the drivers side bolt head in half to clear the plastic nub that pokes through the damper body, to the inside.
Problem:
The chain is sooo tight. The first pic is with the damper spring clip in, limiting the pushing power of the arc.
The second pic is with the pin out, and it is pretty tight.
Questions: How tight is too tight? Leave it or pull the whole thing? Leave a pin in to limit the arc? Take pin out and let the heat create the slack? Do the stock dampers push the chain or just touch it? Metal temps are in the 60*s out in the garage. Chain is a Jwis.
I eventually got around to trying the Ls3 Damper on my pre-tapped '02 LS1.
The holes on the block were too far apart so....
1) Two tiny welds hold the bolt plate to the damper. You can see them and use a dremel to cut them off (between the damper body and bolt plate).
2) Enlarge the holes on the damper body to encompass the stock LS1 holes
Now, either washers or shorter bolts must be used to seat into the stock holes. I made a new bolt plate and welded it to the body with my awesome welding skill
I also cut the head skirts off the bolts and cut the drivers side bolt head in half to clear the plastic nub that pokes through the damper body, to the inside.Problem:
The chain is sooo tight. The first pic is with the damper spring clip in, limiting the pushing power of the arc.
The second pic is with the pin out, and it is pretty tight.
Questions: How tight is too tight? Leave it or pull the whole thing? Leave a pin in to limit the arc? Take pin out and let the heat create the slack? Do the stock dampers push the chain or just touch it? Metal temps are in the 60*s out in the garage. Chain is a Jwis.
Last edited by rajeevx7; Dec 10, 2010 at 06:14 PM.
Thanks vettenuts
I did see that thread while doing research. But look at the pass. side, it's not even touching the links while cold. The drivers side is *just* touching the links.
Is that correct, and that means mine is too tight?
I did see that thread while doing research. But look at the pass. side, it's not even touching the links while cold. The drivers side is *just* touching the links.
Is that correct, and that means mine is too tight?
Update:
Spoke to some engine builders and the consensus was the chain was NOT too tight. The tight pressure of the spring would not be enough to imbalance the bearings.
Also: the supplied bolts with the new damper will have to be cut down by 5/16's. They will stick through into the crank case otherwise.
Spoke to some engine builders and the consensus was the chain was NOT too tight. The tight pressure of the spring would not be enough to imbalance the bearings.
Also: the supplied bolts with the new damper will have to be cut down by 5/16's. They will stick through into the crank case otherwise.
FYI, somebody on eBay has been modifying the LS2 dampeners to fit on the wider bolt-center for LS1 blocks. I picked one up... Here's a link to my post with more info: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ener-pics.html
Last edited by ZexGX; Apr 18, 2011 at 01:51 AM.
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