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Engine overheating

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Old 02-04-2010, 12:05 PM
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How does the interior of the hose completely close up while the exterior looks fine when it is a one piece rubber tube? flush the whole system by emptying all the fluid from the radiater and engine. Replace the thermostat with a stock one or a new 160 and fill everything back up monitoring how much fluid you put back in. If that doesnt work then time to replace your pump. unless ur going to an electric water pump just get a stock replacement one.

hope you figure it out cause seems you got one of those crazy story in the making.
Old 02-04-2010, 12:11 PM
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When your car is getting up to temp will it blow heat? if not that means your water pump is not pumping any coolant whatsoever, which probably means a huge air bubble

i way i have fixed this on many ls1's and ls based engines is to pull the upper radiator hose off the metal elbow right by the throttle body, get a funnel and pour as much coolant as you can right into the water pump, as one of the previous posters suggested. This will give the water pump something to move and should be enough to work the remaining air out of the system.
Old 02-04-2010, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ssfast99
How does the interior of the hose completely close up while the exterior looks fine when it is a one piece rubber tube? flush the whole system by emptying all the fluid from the radiater and engine. Replace the thermostat with a stock one or a new 160 and fill everything back up monitoring how much fluid you put back in. If that doesnt work then time to replace your pump. unless ur going to an electric water pump just get a stock replacement one.

hope you figure it out cause seems you got one of those crazy story in the making.
Its funny you question my response without knowing that rubber hoses are layered and then respond to replace the thermostat which the OP already stated he tested and it worked fine. Are you actually going to contribute something useful here?? Good try though
Old 02-04-2010, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Its funny you question my response without knowing that rubber hoses are layered and then respond to replace the thermostat which the OP already stated he tested and it worked fine. Are you actually going to contribute something useful here?? Good try though
Ok I had a really nice write up but since you are a big very knowledgeable high post count guy I will bite my tongue and say I am truly sorry for questioning your statement. I am honored to meet you.

TO THE OP. dude according to others I have no idea what i am talking about so i would not listen to what i said about flushing the system or putting a stock pump back on. I am sorry for wasting others time. lol

Okay on a more serious note, 01ssreda4, chill big senior high count guy. First off i have seen plenty of customers come to me saying they tested parts because guys on the internet taught them how to and in fact the part was bad. OP i am in no way saying you tested the thermostat wrong but what is the worst that could happen if you put another one in. flushing the system is a good idea so u can make sure your getting enough fluid in the system so you know that there is no large air pockets.


Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Also, I have heard the hoses can collapse on the inside and still look fairly normal on the outside. I would pull both completely off and inspect that they arent caved in on the inside.
for the rubber hose incident, i can see how it might actually structurally seperate in between the layers of the rubber hose but 95% of the time when you look at the interior of the hose it will look fine. generally if the hose empty of water will flex and feel like a mush feeling while twisting then there is a problem. however, your 3 line statement said nothing about that other than you heard the hoses go bad.

if you can pull the water pump off i would fill it with water and see if there is any water movement when you manually spin the pulley. it has worked for me in the past.

Last edited by ssfast99; 02-04-2010 at 06:36 PM.
Old 02-04-2010, 07:21 PM
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I have never seen a hose fail this way, however, with the OPs circumstances i mentioned it bc I thought it may help him, and I saw no mention of him actually pulling the hoses completely off, which is odd considering how much trouble this has given him. Maybe my post would have motivated him to do this, who the hell knows. I thought it was worth a shot though.

That is all.
Old 02-04-2010, 08:53 PM
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alright guys ive got and update....I ran it with no tstat and added coolant to the radiator and to the waterpump. The coolant did not move one bit. It just sat totally still in the radiator. So i guess my water pump must be bad.

And to top this off ive run into a few more problems. I noticed there was a clicking coming from the driver valve cover which sounds like a loose rocker arm. Ive had loose rocker arm troubles before so its a distinct sound to me. Finally, I think i have an exhaust leak because I noticed that i was smelling exhaust in the engine bay and it started to sting my eyes. I also saw a little bit of smoke or something that looked like it was coming from near the header. But I just assumed it was a bit of coolant that may of dripped on it. This was also in my garage but with the door open, so the fumes possibly could have blown back in.

Thanks for all the replies guys, I appreciate your help.
Old 02-04-2010, 10:54 PM
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the overheating problem is definetely your waterpump. the tick you heard was most likely the exhaust like you speak of. sometimes they can sound like a ticking motor
Old 02-04-2010, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by gmmusclecarman
alright guys ive got and update....I ran it with no tstat and added coolant to the radiator and to the waterpump. The coolant did not move one bit. It just sat totally still in the radiator. So i guess my water pump must be bad.
Thats what I thought. Most people never realize that a water pump shaft can shear off clean. It will do that when your serpentine belt bounces.....and nothing makes a serpentine belt bounce like a top speed run. It just cannot keep up with the one-way directional pull as the belt hauls ***. The water pump can handle it...but not with a stock tensioner that bounces.
You are 1 in a million, shafts don't shear very often...its rare.

You need a new pump and you'll be good.

DO NOT do any more top speed runs with that total piece of garbage GM design for a tensioner.....get a Katech. Also, you will throw belts if you smack the throttle real fast and hard...the stock tensioners cannot deal with acceleration either.

.
Old 02-04-2010, 11:22 PM
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well i pulled the waterpump and of course it looks just fine. Everything spins freely as well, no leaks or noises.

Here are some pics:



I guess my next guess is that something is blocking it from pumping. Someone had told me that when the coolant got so hot it could have changed state and is now blocking coolant passages. Does this sound like a possibility? either that or my lower radiator hose is collapsed and just not letting the coolant flow to the engine. I guess my next idea is to just do a complete coolant flush and hope that works....

I also checked out the driver valve cover and all the rockers seemed tight. I noticed that when the guy towed it he had the chains up against the headers. So maybe that created an exhaust leak.
Old 02-06-2010, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by gmmusclecarman
well i pulled the waterpump and of course it looks just fine. Everything spins freely as well, no leaks or noises.

Here are some pics:



I guess my next guess is that something is blocking it from pumping. Someone had told me that when the coolant got so hot it could have changed state and is now blocking coolant passages. Does this sound like a possibility? either that or my lower radiator hose is collapsed and just not letting the coolant flow to the engine. I guess my next idea is to just do a complete coolant flush and hope that works....

I also checked out the driver valve cover and all the rockers seemed tight. I noticed that when the guy towed it he had the chains up against the headers. So maybe that created an exhaust leak.
Coolant changing "state", like from a liquid to a semi-solid.......no.

I have never in my life heard of a hose collapsing. Sounds impossible as pressure in a cooling system builds up and will expand any rubber hose, not collapse it. 18 psi is alot of pressure to have a rubber hose stay closed off. BUT...I guess anything is possible.

.
Old 02-06-2010, 12:25 AM
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I bet it leeks throught the weep hole. Its so little that it gets cought up in t he pulley and you wouldent notice it. Just because its good on the out side dosent mean its good inside. Id change the pump and belt tensior and go from there. Somthing had to jam or come loose to thow a belt.
Old 02-06-2010, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by OUTLAWZ RACING
I bet it leeks throught the weep hole. Its so little that it gets cought up in t he pulley and you wouldent notice it. Just because its good on the out side dosent mean its good inside. Id change the pump and belt tensior and go from there. Somthing had to jam or come loose to thow a belt.
Also, bouncing stock tensioners throw belts all the time on modded engines.

Katech tensioner is the only fix for that.

.
Old 02-10-2010, 10:03 PM
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well guys i got that katech tensioner and a new waterpump. threw them on and fired up with the same results. you start it up and at first it sucks down just a little bit of coolant then the rest just sits in the radiator and goes nowhere while it gets hotter and hotter. the only other thing i can think of doing now is a coolant flush. theres gotta be something blocking it or some kind of huge air bubble, i dont know what else it could be. this is ******* ridiculous.....
Old 02-10-2010, 10:32 PM
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Put the water pump back on and all hoses except for the upper to the engine, fill your engine SLOWLY through the engine water outlet connect your upper hose and fill your radiator SLOWLY,fill the coolant overflow,leave the radiator cap off start car and let it idle turn the heat on high and keep an eye on the temp gauge check the radiator coolant temp w your finger once the radiator coolant gets to hot to check it with your finger put the cap on and drive the car slowly around the block, then park it, leave the heat selector on and let it set for 1 hour, check the coolant at the radiator when you open the cap if there is a squish sound along with coolant spilling out there is still air trapped but it is moving out just fill through the radiator and drive with the heat on-repeat as nessasary, replace that tensioner thats what caused you to loose the belt in the first place.
Old 02-10-2010, 10:42 PM
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I dont have heat and I already have the new tensioner and waterpump installed. I had also already tried pouring coolant in through the upper engine outlet.
Old 02-11-2010, 03:43 PM
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If i have blown a headgasket, could the combustion pressures be forcing the coolant to not flow through the engine?
Old 02-11-2010, 05:21 PM
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i am a mechanic by trade and after many h/c installs or head gasket replacements i have started cars and the car instantly overheat, Due to all the coolant that was in the block not being present...just air. Air will naturally heat faster than coolant and water so thats why ur gauge and motor heat up so fast. What i do is ...and this is if u still have heat.....is remove ur upper heater hose or one of two, insert a funnel and fill it up until it either comes out of the heater core or will no longer allow coolant to enter into the heater hose. This allows majority of the air out of the system and of cousre u still need to get the little bit of air out of the system by heating it up and lettin it cool. Not sayin this is ur issue but it might help u.


one thing i forgot to ask also is ...is ur oil a milky peanut butter color? If so a good and easy indication of a blown head gasket craked motor or cracked or warped head.
Old 02-11-2010, 05:27 PM
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If the hose on the inlet side of the water pump is bad yes the water pump will suck it flat. Rubber deteriorates over time unless it has the "special" blue or green hoses. Take an air hose and run it to the inlet side of the rubber hose on the water pump and disconnect the outlet hose to see if it is indeed "plugged". Run 20 or 30 lbs of air through it. It has to go somewhere.
Old 02-11-2010, 09:06 PM
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IMO you've got a large air pocket in your engine. You need to prime your waterpump in order to get things moving. I suggest adding water directly to the water pump via the hose from the radiator (unclamp from radiator poor water in should flow right to pump engine running). I have had to do this in certain circumstances and it usually gets things flowing.

Good luck
Old 02-11-2010, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by butler
If the hose on the inlet side of the water pump is bad yes the water pump will suck it flat. Rubber deteriorates over time unless it has the "special" blue or green hoses. Take an air hose and run it to the inlet side of the rubber hose on the water pump and disconnect the outlet hose to see if it is indeed "plugged". Run 20 or 30 lbs of air through it. It has to go somewhere.
it sucked both hoses flat at first when this happened but after it cooled off they went back to normal.


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