H/C Swap Question
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 525
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From: Saint Joseph, MO
H/C Swap Question I am planning on down a heads cam swap this fall. I have read in several places that they recommend pulling the motor from the vehicle in order to work on it. I also understand it is possible to work on the motor while its still in the car. How difficult is it to do the work while the motor is in the car? I hear its a royal pain.
Just curious cause I would like to know what I am getting myself into. Also any other tips and tricks would help!!
Just curious cause I would like to know what I am getting myself into. Also any other tips and tricks would help!! 
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 242
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From: STL
I did my full H/C/I/E swap while the motor was in the car! From what I understand that is how most people do it. The swap wasn't hard at all. Just make sure you have the right tools to do the job. I did alot of reading before I started my swap that helped out. Try ls1howto.com for an easy to read how to!
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 525
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From: Saint Joseph, MO
Yeah I checked that site out. I plan on buying the shop manual for my car and refering to that site. ls1howto was talking about how it was difficult in the back part of the engine were it was difficult getting the head bolts off.
Its not that bad at all. Not near as easy as a truck, but its not bad. Just take your time, and if you get frustrated, take a break, drink something, and calm back down. I did cam only swap in car, then swapped the heads a week later. If you are doing a H/C or H/C/I at the same time, it will be a cake walk. The harder of the two is swapping valve springs with the heads on the car. It can and has been done numerous times, from people with varying skill levels. Its a task I would think most should at least try.
If you are pulling the heads, definitely leave the engine in the car. You can swap springs on the bench. That took 20 minutes a head for me, and took damn near 2 hours a head while in the car. Give it a shot, just follow ls1howto.com and I would not even bother with the shop manual. I was given one with the purchase of my car and didn't crack it for either of those jobs.
If you are pulling the heads, definitely leave the engine in the car. You can swap springs on the bench. That took 20 minutes a head for me, and took damn near 2 hours a head while in the car. Give it a shot, just follow ls1howto.com and I would not even bother with the shop manual. I was given one with the purchase of my car and didn't crack it for either of those jobs.
I stood between the motor and the radiator and swapped the heads. Had all my tools and parts lined up around me, got the idea off another member on here. No need to pull the motor, ls1howto is good, but there are alot of other tips here and there that will add to your knowledge.....and whatever you do, do not drop the oil pick up tube screw in the oil pan.
I second this. I always have a magnet dangling in there under the pick up tube. I did my own h/c swap with the motor out the bottom and helped on a friends car while the motor was still in. Dropping the motor out the bottom made everything 10x easier. However if a lift isn't available or you don't wanna pick your car up with a cherry picker then doin it out the top isn't tooo bad. If you know someone with a lift who would let you borrow it for a couple days I would suggest that personally.
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im gearing up for one too. i think im going to drop the trans/engine out the bottom with the k member. but im also in need of a tranny rebuild and a new clutch, this is why im doing it, also to save on a fresh paint job, not wanting to lean over the fenders too much.
You can do it either way. I left the motor in the car and the only reason it was a PITA for me was because I didn't have a garage, It was winter, Only had a droplight to work with and it was a little nippy out there @ 11pm lol.
It's a little time consuming but not that difficult. I think the hardest part is gettin to the Rear Head Bolts under the cowl & Torque'n them back down to spec...
It's a little time consuming but not that difficult. I think the hardest part is gettin to the Rear Head Bolts under the cowl & Torque'n them back down to spec...
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 525
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From: Saint Joseph, MO
[QUOTE
It's a little time consuming but not that difficult. I think the hardest part is gettin to the Rear Head Bolts under the cowl & Torque'n them back down to spec...[/QUOTE]
That's what I was afraid of. Just how much trouble was it? I am thinking I would be better off trying to jack around with those heads bolts with the motor still in the car versus pulling the motor.
It's a little time consuming but not that difficult. I think the hardest part is gettin to the Rear Head Bolts under the cowl & Torque'n them back down to spec...[/QUOTE]
That's what I was afraid of. Just how much trouble was it? I am thinking I would be better off trying to jack around with those heads bolts with the motor still in the car versus pulling the motor.
I didn't think that was very hard at all, as long as you have a tight torque wrench. Mine is VERY tight and would allow minimal movement between locks.
The only real problem with doing the h/c swap with the motor in the car have already been explained. The only other issue that I don't think has been touched on is that it's more difficult to do headstuds with the motor in the car. In all honesty tho, it took me less time with my motor out than it did with the motor in. I elieve this was because with the motor out it wasn't my first time doing it. When doing the headstuds though, you'll have some in when you lay the heads down but the back two or four will have to be put in with the head laying on the block.