IIRC you have a CTS-V? No way are you getting 100rwhp from a cam only swap. With a mid sized cam i wouldnt expect half of that without headers. Who said you would get that type of power from just a cam? Thats heads cam long tubes territory.

 

hahaha, nice. thats what i call mine too.

 

haha hell ya. When i start my car in parking lots and small children flee and car alarms go off i really feel like i have done my job.

 

dude no way !!!! that always happens to me too. i love just watching people faces when it starts. or they jump if they are walking close by. makes my day. i know my neighbors hate me on weekends since im last one home in my neighborhood and first one to leave in the next morning.

 

If you're going to the trouble of changing cams, get something worth while. The LS6 or Hot cam are too mild. I'm telling you, the TR224 with a 114 LSA is a perfect daily driver. No bucking or surging, smooth idle and slight lope (I can post a vid if you want to hear it). The lift of a TR224 is easy on the springs too (you do have to put in better springs though).

 

4 words.. eye of the beholder

 

I daily drive the one in my cig. It has good manners and is a great sleeper with the magna flows on and the e. cut out closed

 

Lol start a 254/254 in the parking lot, you get some weird reactions sometimes
, and this is on a turbo car so there are no mufflers lol straight 3.5 inch downpipe

 

I also am looking for a cam, But the diffrence im a a4, Ofcorse im looking for that cam that will give me great low end.... and mid range.
Any one have any recommendations on what cam is should get?
I have Lt's ORY Cut out Ls6 intake and K&N intake kit.
i was thinking of saving up some cash and get a set of TFS 215s...
Would i get better low end torque if i stroke out my ls1? to a 383?
And with the cam what stall speed should i pick.
thanks for any one that is reading!

 

I don't DD my car, but I most certainly could. I have a 228r on a 112 LSA. It drives really damn easy, has a massive powerband and I have great lowend. Don't underestimate the baby cams. I know guys daily driving MS3s/MS4s sized cams too. Depends on how gnarly you wanna get, and how good your tune is.

 

Isn't it a good idea to upgrade the push rods when upgrading the cam and springs?

 

Yes, you should get hardened pushrods and even a larger diameter if you are getting too radical with the lift.

 

Since you are going to do all the supporting mods, here is what you should know about the Hot cam vs 224/224 debate:

Hot Cam = 219/228 112lsa, overlap = -0.5 degrees
224/224 112lsa, overlap = 0 degrees
224/224 113lsa, overlap = -2 degrees
224/224 114lsa, overlap = -4 degrees

All of the 224 cams give you more intake duration (read: more power potential) than the Hot Cam, with little change, or actually less overlap than the Hot Cam. Since you will have headers, you do not need such a wide split in favor of the exhaust. If you run an ORY, you might even consider a reverse split duration, like the TR227

227/224 .569/.563 114lsa, overlap = -2.5 degrees

Everyone has different ideas of what they want out of a cam, but most of the people steering you towards a 224/224 cam are hoping to save you a step by getting you more power the first go-around. True, Comp XE/XE-R lobes and the TR lobes will require a better valvespring, and have the potential to make a bit more valvetrain noise under the hood. You might also investigate Engine Power Systems (Geoff, formerly of Thunder Racing) lobes that are out now.

 

Ill say it again, the driveability is only as good as the tuner, and that goes with any cam...

 

I use to DD my car but now I have other ones to use for my DD, but none the less, I drive mine 40 miles one way to the racetrack and back and pull the times in the sig, my car has power all thoughout the RPM range up to about 6300, and is snappy as hell on the low end.

Lunati VooDoo Cam
222/228, .567/.567 113LSA 109CL

 

Just installed a custom cam ground specifically for low and mid-range torque. My ride is a daily driver, and by no means an all-out build. Specs are 219/227 with just under .600 lift.

Edit: Picked up 45rwhp with this cam after tuning.

 

I daily drive the 228r its awesome I have a good tune also. I drive my **** all year round everywhere. I drove it from cali to missouri and got good *** gas mpgs also.

 

Also look at the VRX3 cam from Vengeance.

 

^^^^^+1 on that I'm running a clone of that cam and it kicks ***

 

Funny, I have been following this thread for a couple days and I notice some things..... It is true that your cam is important as well as the supporting parts or "supporting cast" I think too many guys and conversations are getting caught up in durations vs actually looking at the timing vents of these cams profiles.... Whether to advance or retard the degree of the cam etc......... Basic cam 101, earlier the intake closes more torque(shifts the peak torque earlier in the power band), later it closes, it shifts the powerband out and builds peak power later in the curve...... Make sure you pay attention to the torque curves, for horsepower is a derivitive of torque....... So in essence, you have to look at the practicality of your build..... I here it all the time and everyone wants to build a street car that they can take to the track occasionlly...... But when building these cars, where you build in one area, there is a compromise in another........

When talking about a cam swap, the gearing, type of tranny, intake, exhaust system, fuel system, as well as tune, etc.... should be examined and upgraded or compromised. Right now I drive a BBC, 850DP with a 9.5 3000 stall..... Now most would say, that is not optimal for gas mileage, but it runs efficiently because of the combination.... When I select my torque converters, I always select them off my torque curve and power band and where I want be when the stall flashes...... and I don't skimp on the TQ converter... I have them custom built... But the issue of bucking, soggy, stalling out etc... something is not right with the combination if the car is doing all of that, it is not efficient.....

The fastest car usually is the car that is most efficient in putting the power to the ground not necesaarly the guy with the bigger head or cam....... The car with the most efficient combination...... I have seen budget guys are guys with a junkyard build, murder the guys who spent 10 g'z plus on their rides.... The moral here, the junkyard guy's combination was right and efficient.

As Caroll Shelby said it "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races"....... So in the quest, we must make sure we do not get caught chasing HP even though it is sexy, but not optimal....... Combination, Combination, Combination