TTT - for data collection.

 

I was un-able to properly check the bore's with the heads on so I am waiting for Wade to send me a torque plate. I should have it next week.

Tom

 

That's a very good point. How many re-sleeves has MTI (or any other tuner) done in the last 12 months and how many of those owners have reported problems? That would be more indicative of a true problem and the question a potential buyer should ask the shop.

 

Think of it like this...

If you have a 1000 re-sleeves nationwide and say 100 of them are board members and 35 of the board members vote you have a sample rate of 35/1000 which gives a fair idea of what one might encounter with a dry resleeve.

Even ARE regarded by some as being able to do dry sleeves without problems had 3 out of the 8 people vote they had issues in the other thread on this.

Since the Darton Wet's are very new, most of the data is from the old dry sleeve set ups, which some people still consider due to the lower cost.

The poll data has 35 votes as follows

Problems from the start.................................12 votes..... 34.29%
Problems w/re-sleeve before 2000 miles...........4 votes......11.43%
Problems w/re-sleeve after 2000 miles..............0 votes....... 0%
No issues & less than 2000 miles .....................2 votes.......5.71%
No issues & over 2000 miles, please post mileage..4 votes.11.43%
I LOVE my RE-SLEEVE & I'd do it again!................5 votes..14.3%
I'd NEVER do a RE-SLEEVE again!.........................1...........2.86%
No issues but I'm afraid to actually drive it for fear it will have issues....1...2.86%
Get stroker instead based on my experience......3...... 8.57%
Aint saying anything because if I do they won't fix it.... 3....8.57%

Total Votes: 35.

Out of 35 experiences with re-sleeves 42.75 percent of the time the problem occured from the start or within 2,000 miles. No one has posted that a problem occured past 2,000 miles. I think this is a note-worthy trend.

Out of 35 people 23 don't seem all that happy with the re-sleeve experience or 66 percent of the people. That's about 2 of 3 for dry sleeves and all it takes for me to rule drys out.

If I ever go for the wet set up my top choices would be Steve, Scott & Wegner (if they decide to offer it later on) since they have extensive experience and the correct tools to do the job right.

 

my MTI dry 4.125" system took me for a nice long ride a couple days ago... no problems still at all except with the clutch

chris

 

Visceral that's great news! I suspect you'll have problems with tires needing frequent replacement next!

 

I have 9600 miles on my MTI dry-resleeved 427 (4.125" bored x 4.00" stroke). No issues. I drive it EVERYDAY, rain, snow, shine, even in 10*F weather.

 

TTT for additional votes

 

Hearsay will one day be the downfall to these great boards

We ran the same block in the vette late 2001 @ 800rwhp and street drove the car every day. Same engine ran in the Z28 with a cam change for 2002(8.70@154) same block crank and rods ran with the C5R topend in the entire 2003 race season (8.54@167). Mid season we lost a piston and hurt a sleeve, removed the existing sleeve installed new and finished season stronger than ever ( FACT NOT HEARSAY). Oh, we also ran the same head gaskets for almost 2 years.

George Coffe's engine did have a craced block but had nothing to do with the resleeve proc., the block had a crack in the oil galery and we replaced the block no charge. The SBC was an economical way to go fast for George

Toms Block has a special headstud system (9/16) that we sell and the trq plate is required when checking bores for out of round. He did put the plate on and check the bores everything came back to specs.

 

We learn something new every day, Nick is right. I obviously did not believe it at first or my engine would have been together by now. All the bores straightened out as much as 2.5 thou as ARE stated they would. Some things you just have to see with your own eyes, especially when you are planning on beating a block as hard as I do. The engine will be in the car by next Tues! I will be able to report the strength and durability of this block very shortly!

Thanks!

Tom

 

Diggin up an old thread. My engine does have the milkshake oil I think. It was actually clumpy with large blobs squeezing out the oil drain hole. It was dark in color though. The car does use a lot of water, a gallon or so every few weeks. Even though it looks like a teardown is eminent how do I verify where the coolant loss is? I have the Cometic gaskets torqued at 70 lbs., somewhere I read that they should be retorqued. The car runs fine, should I try block seal or Bars Leak or is that a waste of time? If the problem is in the dry sleeves what are my options? I want to stay large bore so should I get a Darton sleeve block or can this be done to my block? I would like to re-use my pistons since they only have a few thousand miles on them. Whatever I end up doing is going to wait till winter. I'll just change the oil every 1000 miles and keep topping off the water.

 

Water is seeping between the block and sleeve and working it's way to the oil pan. Most of the blocks will break through the aluminum wall between the cylinders about an inch down from the deck surface.

Moroso makes a sealer for use with antifreeze. The sealer is installed with no antifreeze in the system however. You should flush the system prior to use for best results. After it seals you replace the antifreeze. You do not leave this stuff in the system. Moroso All Weather Seal part number 35520.

If this doesn't work nothing will.

To answer your question about resleeving your block. Forget it. I remachined a dry sleeved block last year and will never do another. The dry liners are not installed on the crankshaft centerline or a precise 4.400" center to center distance as are the MID liners. There is not enough material left in the block to get the new liners where they are supposed to be. Get a new blem LS6 block or I can supply one if it comes to that.

Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development

 

 

Darton MID block 4.125" Bore (JPR did assembly). Had sever oil consumption problem (smoked bad from tailpipes) from the get-go, but I associate this with a bad install and not the block itself. Eventual collapsed lifters, glazed cylender walls, melted pistons, washed rings, and other problems forced a complete rebuild.

Rebuilt to a 4.135" bore by JD' Auto. Block seemed great, no leaks, etc...but assembly was not done correctly and bearings were shot at 1500 miles, spun bearing ended up with a broken rod and block was toast.

Option to rebuild to a 4.155" bore. For money and warranty concerns, not going to do this right now, but I will hang on to the block (6 sleeves appear to be salveable for another block). Trying something different that also involves a resleeve, will keep everyone posted.

By the way, I voted for "would have gone for the stroker instead" option. Although at this stage, the george C SBC way seems even better.

 

Man, that's a lot of BAD engine assembly, ezss

I hope your new setup works very well.

 

The new setup comes with a 12 month parts and labor warranty, so hopefully Im taking some of the risk out of it.

 

That's a hell of a warranty!

 

my block is fine.. no issues with the sleeves themselves.. just the same geniuses that did ezss's second build screwed mine up also.... piston-rod clearance, bad ring gapping, timing chain was diging into the oil pump.......

wet sleeves, 4.125 bore, 4" callies crank, JE pistons, manely pro-light rods...

 

Any with a Katech block yet?