Arp Rod Bolts
something about the way the Katech bolts are made supposedly keeps them from shifting.
i still wouldnt trust not resizing them. just run an oversized bearing and live with the peace of mind that your short block is put together the way its supposed to be.
i still wouldnt trust not resizing them. just run an oversized bearing and live with the peace of mind that your short block is put together the way its supposed to be.
Thanks for all the input and help guys but I'm still not sure what the ferrules are. I was told they are tubes but with my rods out of the engine and on a table I still can't find them. Is it possible even though I have a 98' the ferrules weren't put in?
This convinced me to get the Katechs, first hand expirence is what I was looking for. But please, what are these ferrules?
because katech developed a bolt that does not deform the rod upon installing them. talk to any reputible machine shop and they will tell you to have the rod resized upon installing new bolts. bottom line is its your motor do what you want but its not worth the risk in my opinion to wipe out a crankshaft over it. if you dont want to tear it down just get the katech bolts
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I guess I've just been really lucky cause I've used ARP's in several engines and never resized a rod and never had and issue. My first 5.3 went over 60,000 miles after the swap and is now in another buddies truck with still no issues. Both my 6.0 with 8k on it now, and another 6.0 build I participated in didn't need resized either, zero problems with either...
Last edited by MPFD; Mar 2, 2010 at 04:06 PM.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I guess I've just been really lucky cause I've used ARP's in several engines and never resized a rod and never had and issue. My first 5.3 went over 60,000 miles after the swap and is now in another buddies truck with still no issues. Both mine and another 6.0 with 8k on it now, and another 6.0 build I participated in didn't need resized either, zero problems with either...
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Verdad Gallardo lets see a quote...
just because it works, doesnt make it right. and it doesnt work in everycase.
sorry i dont like to fill people's heads that "good enough" or "it worked for me" is the correct way to do things.
ill revert to one of my previous posts,
i kick my girlfriend in the **** and she cleans, but that doesnt make it right.
just because you know how to do things, and many other people do as well, doesnt mean everyone knows how to do them.
just because it works, doesnt make it right. and it doesnt work in everycase.
sorry i dont like to fill people's heads that "good enough" or "it worked for me" is the correct way to do things.
ill revert to one of my previous posts,
i kick my girlfriend in the **** and she cleans, but that doesnt make it right.
just because you know how to do things, and many other people do as well, doesnt mean everyone knows how to do them.
There's nothing mystical about Katech bolts, they are made from a high dollar alloy and thats why they cost so much. They use the same torque method as ARP, the only difference is they instruct you to do the bolt swap one at a time not removing the bearings or caps. Which is why they probably have less problems. ARP has also been around alot years and has probably been sued over more then one customers shoddy work, so they put on a disclaimer. The bolts are the same exact design other then the material used to make them.
There's nothing mystical about Katech bolts, they are made from a high dollar alloy and thats why they cost so much. They use the same torque method as ARP, the only difference is they instruct you to do the bolt swap one at a time not removing the bearings or caps. Which is why they probably have less problems. ARP has also been around alot years and has probably been sued over more then one customers shoddy work, so they put on a disclaimer. The bolts are the same exact design other then the material used to make them.
i think they are like ARP's, where they have to be torqued, then re torqued. torque them to 50 ftlbs, then loosen and tighten to 45. thats what it sounds like to me, could be wrong tho.
There's nothing mystical about Katech bolts, they are made from a high dollar alloy and thats why they cost so much. They use the same torque method as ARP, the only difference is they instruct you to do the bolt swap one at a time not removing the bearings or caps. Which is why they probably have less problems. ARP has also been around alot years and has probably been sued over more then one customers shoddy work, so they put on a disclaimer. The bolts are the same exact design other then the material used to make them.
That is not the only difference and regardless whether you swap ARP's or Katech's they should be done one at a time because you don't want the cracked rods to move.
If you put the ARP's and Katech's side by side the ARP's are noticeably larger. The Katech's are nearly stock sized and weigh within a few grams of OEM. The ARP's are larger and heavier and according to some this causes different clamping properties which can cause the rod distortion some attribute to ARP's.
I don't know whether this is valid or not but know if I change mine in my stock bottom Katech's will go in for no worries. On a rebuild I will save a little coin and go ARP...
bolt ferrules? in my research i have seen that with after market bolts the ferrules have to be removed. that being said if your rods are out you probly already took them out. they are barrel shaped washer, spacer that the rod bolt goes through on the bottom half of the rod. hope this helps.
