Arp Rod Bolts
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Arp Rod Bolts
I've searched around but have not found a definite answer to my questions. It seems the rumor is that arp rod bolts change the geometry of the rods and require machine work of some kind. Is this true? Also what are the differences between the standard ones and the "2000" ones. Summit racing's description reads "ARP Pro series Wave-Loc rod bolts have a symmetrical "wave" on the shank that eliminates stress risers". Does this mean it prevents the rod geometry change? Thanks in advance guys
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I am sure they have and just have been fortunate. I know 2 people that just dropped the pan and put them in as direct replacement. Never had an issue as a DD and seasonal weekend racer. Could be something between the ferrels with Katech that allow for no re-sizing.
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This subject keeps coming back. So I will add my .02 like everyone else. Most everyone that follows ARPs directions never have an issue, including myself. Most throw em in and go, including myself. Most take those ARPs and spin to the moon and dont have problems. LS1 rods are not SBC rods. Period.
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Im assuming because its a wavy cut between the two pieces as opposed to a flat surface. Meaning they cannot be installed backwards. They are like puzzle pieces, only go together one way.
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after being torqued down could the rod bolts be taken out and reused?
sry off topic but i installed mine and decided to rebuild the engine completely....if i cant reuse them thats fine, just wondering. the engine was never started btw
sry off topic but i installed mine and decided to rebuild the engine completely....if i cant reuse them thats fine, just wondering. the engine was never started btw
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[QUOTE=lifeisgood;12968221]after being torqued down could the rod bolts be taken out and reused?
sry off topic but i installed mine and decided to rebuild the engine completely....if i cant reuse them thats fine, just wondering. the engine was never started btw[/QUOT
Shouldnt be a problem. Stock rod bolts per gm say that they can be retightened a maximum of three times
sry off topic but i installed mine and decided to rebuild the engine completely....if i cant reuse them thats fine, just wondering. the engine was never started btw[/QUOT
Shouldnt be a problem. Stock rod bolts per gm say that they can be retightened a maximum of three times
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[QUOTE=blackLS1m6;12968311]
I wouldn't reuse them. Once you go through the instructions and see how the torque to yield process works you will be sick if you reuse the bolts.
A fractured rod is forged from cindered iron then machined to a precise rod diameter. After its machined it is scored and broken off or "fractured" so that no two are ever going to be the same. This machine work prior to creating the fracture split gives better tensile strength and a more accurate roundness to give a better minimum oil film all the way around the rod to crank surface. I think that allot of the rumors that got spread were do to weekend warriors trying to do the rod bolts in their garage in poor condition. I work with diesel engines that use the same process for creating their rods, and I have seen instances where trace amounts of dirt or grease get on to the fractured surface and the rod caps do not fit correctly after re installation, which would eventually lead to bearing failure. This would be very hard to see under a car, and is probably the reason for the wives tale.
after being torqued down could the rod bolts be taken out and reused?
sry off topic but i installed mine and decided to rebuild the engine completely....if i cant reuse them thats fine, just wondering. the engine was never started btw[/QUOT
Shouldnt be a problem. Stock rod bolts per gm say that they can be retightened a maximum of three times
sry off topic but i installed mine and decided to rebuild the engine completely....if i cant reuse them thats fine, just wondering. the engine was never started btw[/QUOT
Shouldnt be a problem. Stock rod bolts per gm say that they can be retightened a maximum of three times
I wouldn't reuse them. Once you go through the instructions and see how the torque to yield process works you will be sick if you reuse the bolts.
A fractured rod is forged from cindered iron then machined to a precise rod diameter. After its machined it is scored and broken off or "fractured" so that no two are ever going to be the same. This machine work prior to creating the fracture split gives better tensile strength and a more accurate roundness to give a better minimum oil film all the way around the rod to crank surface. I think that allot of the rumors that got spread were do to weekend warriors trying to do the rod bolts in their garage in poor condition. I work with diesel engines that use the same process for creating their rods, and I have seen instances where trace amounts of dirt or grease get on to the fractured surface and the rod caps do not fit correctly after re installation, which would eventually lead to bearing failure. This would be very hard to see under a car, and is probably the reason for the wives tale.
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why? ARP didnt tear down my engine and see exactly what happened.
egg shaped rods do not do the crankshaft any good.
before i was educated and just did what everyone else on the internet did, i used ARP rod bolts without resizing my rods. when i tore it apart to find out why it wasnet makeng the power it should, i found the rods .003 out of round and all the rod bearings shot. and these rod bearings only had 1k miles on them.
egg shaped rods do not do the crankshaft any good.
before i was educated and just did what everyone else on the internet did, i used ARP rod bolts without resizing my rods. when i tore it apart to find out why it wasnet makeng the power it should, i found the rods .003 out of round and all the rod bearings shot. and these rod bearings only had 1k miles on them.