Head bolt pops during torqueing
Hey dalemllns welcome to LS1tech!
It sounds like you've cracked the block. As I understand it, these cracks from headbolt installation into a wet blind tapped hole is not repairable.
I would have a local machine shop who's done a few LS style blocks have a look at it.
It sounds like you've cracked the block. As I understand it, these cracks from headbolt installation into a wet blind tapped hole is not repairable.
I would have a local machine shop who's done a few LS style blocks have a look at it.
With the looming possibility of block damage from bolting down heads on aluminum LS blocks, I'd venture to say the best way to do the job is with head studs. Doing so should eliminate any of these issues.
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2011
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Please excuse if I ask a newb question but what is a blind tapped hole? Does coolant flow here? If no coolant then jb weld should hold right? Ice used a cold welds before on an aluminum block but not near coolant. Thanks for the info. I wish I knew Riga before I did the tear down ugggg....
A blind tapped hole has no openings into anything else. Drill a hole halfway through a block of wood. That's a blind hole.
Do not rely on JB Weld or another epoxy to "fix" a cracked engine block. If it's an aluminum block, it might be a candidate for welding and machining back to specs. Iron blocks can also be welded but it's a process involving first heating the block in an oven. As there are plenty of blocks available for literally their scrap weight value, it's usually not worth repairing a cracked block-unless you already have tons of other work in it.
Studs should be turned into the block all the way in but only to hand tight. The nuts are then torqued. You would seek the stud makers recommendations for torquing values.
Do not rely on JB Weld or another epoxy to "fix" a cracked engine block. If it's an aluminum block, it might be a candidate for welding and machining back to specs. Iron blocks can also be welded but it's a process involving first heating the block in an oven. As there are plenty of blocks available for literally their scrap weight value, it's usually not worth repairing a cracked block-unless you already have tons of other work in it.
Studs should be turned into the block all the way in but only to hand tight. The nuts are then torqued. You would seek the stud makers recommendations for torquing values.
The first pass on all bolts are at 22ft lbs then all bigger bolts gets tightened at 90 degrees each(not the small ones on top) the last pass u tighten the front and rear bolts at 50 degrees for the final pass. U would need an angle degree Gauge. If u need the complete instructions let me know, I have them at work.
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Teching In
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 11
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The first pass on all bolts are at 22ft lbs then all bigger bolts gets tightened at 90 degrees each(not the small ones on top) the last pass u tighten the front and rear bolts at 50 degrees for the final pass. U would need an angle degree Gauge. If u need the complete instructions let me know, I have them at work.
What engines have you built? And if u have been buliding engines that's a critical tool to have, not only a torque wrench. And best way to clean out the bolt holes is compressed air and your air nozzle. 
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 325
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From: canada
i got one question just about to put my heads on. with arp head bolts arert you only supsed to lubricate the washer on both sides. not the threads.? if you lube the trads with arp stuff couldent you crack the block too.?
you lube the threads and the washer surfaces. Unless you seriously over-do it with the thread lube, you won't have any issues. Most of it will come off as you thread the bolt in.
Teching In
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Registered User
Joined: Mar 2021
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My It might be okay, but it got me really nervous about stripping a head bolt hole out. On the last two bolts I got a really loud poping sound that immediately didn't sound right. At first I tried torqueing it again (last pass at 70lb/ft) and it did it again. At first thought "did my torque wrench break"? I go get the other torque wrench and I got a loud popping again when the wrench tightens, but it's definitely not the click of the wrench. Is this what happens just before the hole strips out? I was pretty thorough about clean the bolt holes out. It may be just the way the bolt tightens up on aluminum. I don't know. This is the first aluminum block I've worked with and the engine has never had the heads off before.
I'm going to retry it again tonight and if it strips it strips. I will be forced to pull the head and put new threads in the block.
I'm going to retry it again tonight and if it strips it strips. I will be forced to pull the head and put new threads in the block.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2021
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