Bank 1 and 2 sensor 1 no activity
03-04-2010, 09:22 PM
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Bank 1 and 2 sensor 1 no activity 98 Formula LS1 A4, has LT headers, manual cut out, k&n, slp lid, small cam, and a tune.
I keep getting p0134 and p0154 ses codes.. it has 2 brand new bosch O2 sensors, the driver side has a brand new harness extension on it, from what i have seen i don't see any melted wires, no cut wires, no broken connections at all.. i can't figure it out.. the only thing i haven't done yet is hook up a tester and check for proper voltage, mainly because i'm not sure how to test the O2 sensors. So... how do you go about testing the O2's to make sure they are actually working?
if anyone has had an issue like this please help me out.
I keep getting p0134 and p0154 ses codes.. it has 2 brand new bosch O2 sensors, the driver side has a brand new harness extension on it, from what i have seen i don't see any melted wires, no cut wires, no broken connections at all.. i can't figure it out.. the only thing i haven't done yet is hook up a tester and check for proper voltage, mainly because i'm not sure how to test the O2 sensors. So... how do you go about testing the O2's to make sure they are actually working?
if anyone has had an issue like this please help me out.
03-05-2010, 09:20 AM
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i decided to drive the car to work this morning, ses light didn't come on till about 10minutes into the drive. when i got to work i check the codes, i had P0134 (bank 1 sensor 1 no activity) P0135 (bank 1 sensor 1 heat circuit malfunction) P0155 (bank 2 sensor 1 hear circuit malfunction).
what can cause a heat circuit malfunction? and has anyone had any bad experiances with bosch O2 sensors? i find it hard to believe i got 2 brand new O2 sensors are bad but i'm just trying to look through all options..
what can cause a heat circuit malfunction? and has anyone had any bad experiances with bosch O2 sensors? i find it hard to believe i got 2 brand new O2 sensors are bad but i'm just trying to look through all options..
03-05-2010, 01:45 PM
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another question... i know on bikes you can bypass the O2's using a power comander and what not. can you do that on these cars? just bypass the front O2's using a tuner or something?
my rear O2's are already removed from the pcm
my rear O2's are already removed from the pcm
03-05-2010, 05:07 PM
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Heat circuit is the only part of the O2 wiring you can test via light
Check the pink wire for 12v IGN on both connectors
Check the black wires to ground
The tan and ppl wires must be tested for a complete circuit to the PCM. A bit more tricky with everything still in the car
Check the pink wire for 12v IGN on both connectors
Check the black wires to ground
The tan and ppl wires must be tested for a complete circuit to the PCM. A bit more tricky with everything still in the car
03-05-2010, 06:45 PM
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and no you cannot bypass the 02 sensors. the rears you can delete...the front ones have to stay in the car.
thats how your pcm is going to control fuel...well atleast thats a short explination
thats how your pcm is going to control fuel...well atleast thats a short explination
03-05-2010, 07:07 PM
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hopefully it will be something easy, i did notice up right below the power steering pump there was a ground wire that was just hanging there, looks like it goes into the same group of wires as the O2 harness... hopefully it will be something that easy, i'll check it out more tomorrow, thanks for the help!
03-05-2010, 07:28 PM
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Yes, you can. You can tune it to run open loop all the time, which ignores the front 02's. I have been running mine SDOL for a few years. It's not a daily driver though.
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03-05-2010, 07:44 PM
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how do you go about tuning it to run without front O2's? mine is not an actual DD, i drive it on the weekends and maybe once or twice a week to work, but its also not as modded as yours.. what are the pros/cons to tunning the O2's out?
03-06-2010, 09:01 AM
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i also deleted my front o2's when i installed my wideband... My open loop tune was good enough that the afr never changed between 14.6 and 14.8 while driving. My stock o2 sensors were old and throwing off the fuel trims plus one had a intermittent heater failure. Didnt want to spend 150 bucks on stock o2's when i have a wide band to monitor so buh bye 
... no loss in mpg. no messing with fuel trims. I like open loop!
pros of removing narrow band o2's, they wont mess with your fuel trims if they are bad.. If you have long tube headers it has also been said the stock 02 sensors do not work well, or are not as accurate. You have complete control over your air fuel ratio... If you already have a wideband it wont annoy you anymore from the narrow band switching afr (constantly moving from ~14.2 to 15.3 in closed loop and your guage is always flashing.. lol)
cons of removing o2 sensors.. you need to buy tuning software and a wideband o2 sensor for tuning. You need to be able to put a good tune on it and you may have to modify this tune when in drastic weather/temp changes (winter/summer) Other then that i have experieced no other cons of removing them.
i stress the importance of a good tune... Your computer will no longer compensate for afr errors and you could get into a dangerously lean or rich condition if you dont have a good tune..
And when i say removed i mean i just have the computer set to open loop operation... the o2's are still plugged in and functional and are being logged, just merely ignored.
... no loss in mpg. no messing with fuel trims. I like open loop!pros of removing narrow band o2's, they wont mess with your fuel trims if they are bad.. If you have long tube headers it has also been said the stock 02 sensors do not work well, or are not as accurate. You have complete control over your air fuel ratio... If you already have a wideband it wont annoy you anymore from the narrow band switching afr (constantly moving from ~14.2 to 15.3 in closed loop and your guage is always flashing.. lol)
cons of removing o2 sensors.. you need to buy tuning software and a wideband o2 sensor for tuning. You need to be able to put a good tune on it and you may have to modify this tune when in drastic weather/temp changes (winter/summer) Other then that i have experieced no other cons of removing them.
i stress the importance of a good tune... Your computer will no longer compensate for afr errors and you could get into a dangerously lean or rich condition if you dont have a good tune..
And when i say removed i mean i just have the computer set to open loop operation... the o2's are still plugged in and functional and are being logged, just merely ignored.
Last edited by got-a-ls1; 03-06-2010 at 09:20 AM.
03-06-2010, 11:52 AM
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I wouldn't run open loop all the time without my own tuning software and a wideband. It's also a good idea to have an AFR gage in the car, or keep the laptop hooked up so you can see what the AFR is. As stated above, the PCM will no longer adjust your fueling without the front 02's. I am using a custom operating system to adjust fueling for changes in temp. But I don't have it fully tuned yet. I just don't drive it much when it's cold out and if I do I don't get on it hard. I decided to run open loop because even after swapping out the front 02's for the Bosch vette sensors, it continued to throw an 02 code saying they were slow to respond after just a few miles.
03-06-2010, 04:25 PM
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I wouldn't run open loop all the time without my own tuning software and a wideband. It's also a good idea to have an AFR gage in the car, or keep the laptop hooked up so you can see what the AFR is. As stated above, the PCM will no longer adjust your fueling without the front 02's. I am using a custom operating system to adjust fueling for changes in temp. But I don't have it fully tuned yet. I just don't drive it much when it's cold out and if I do I don't get on it hard. I decided to run open loop because even after swapping out the front 02's for the Bosch vette sensors, it continued to throw an 02 code saying they were slow to respond after just a few miles.
03-06-2010, 04:37 PM
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yeah thats a little much for me...
i just got done looking through the wiring for both O2 sensors, i can't see anything wrong with the wiring.. Does anyone know exactly where the grounds are for the O2 sensors? i also read somewhere about a fuse for them but again i couldn't find that either..
i'm getting ready to go pickup a multimeter so i can actually test the grounds and everything else but as of right now i'm no closer then before...
i just got done looking through the wiring for both O2 sensors, i can't see anything wrong with the wiring.. Does anyone know exactly where the grounds are for the O2 sensors? i also read somewhere about a fuse for them but again i couldn't find that either..
i'm getting ready to go pickup a multimeter so i can actually test the grounds and everything else but as of right now i'm no closer then before...
03-06-2010, 05:12 PM
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03-06-2010, 06:33 PM
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ok i went and bought a tester to check all the wires and what not.. I unhooked the harness extensions from the engine bay harness. I tested the ground to the O2 sensor and that was good. Then i tested all the wires on the engine bay harness (pink, purple, tan, and black) The pink one is the only one that moved away from 1 on my tester, it jumped up between 60 and 58.xx.. The ground (black wire) never changed it stayed at a constant 1.0, which is what the tester is at not touching anything.. This was the driver side O2 harness (didn't have time to check passenger side)
So here is my next question.. can i cut the ground that is on the engine bay harness connector and just run my own ground for that? that just seems like it would be an easier solution then trying to dig through that entire harness all the way back to the PCM..
So here is my next question.. can i cut the ground that is on the engine bay harness connector and just run my own ground for that? that just seems like it would be an easier solution then trying to dig through that entire harness all the way back to the PCM..
03-06-2010, 08:59 PM
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if anyone can help me out i need to know if i can do that with the ground wire as soon as possible.. if its ok to just tap into that ground wire right after the connector i plan on doing it tomorrow so i can get this car running right...
thanks
thanks
03-07-2010, 03:57 PM
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finally got to go out there and hook up the ground. neither O2 seemed to have a good ground. Got it all done and took it for a drive. after about 5 minutes and a good run against a '07ish stang GT, i got a P0131 and P0151 light (Bank 1&2 low volt) i cleared those out and kept driving around. Drove around for about another 10 minutes and only got a P0151 light back. I'm thinking i might take both the O2 sensors back to autozone and get new ones, i asked my buddy that works up there and he said they will just exchange them for me. Unless someone else has any ideas?
and yes i ate that stang up, he definatly had at least an exhaust on it, not sure what else
and yes i ate that stang up, he definatly had at least an exhaust on it, not sure what else
03-07-2010, 06:43 PM
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Original poster, go and swap the sensors if they will do it hassle free. If you still have the problems then we can have a pretty safe bet there is something wrong with the wiring. nice job on the stang
03-07-2010, 07:33 PM
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i have taken for 2 more drives since my last post. both were about 5-10 minutes. I didn't get any SES lights at all, car seemed to run good, felt like it pulled a little harder when i got on it and it seemed like it was running smoother.. I'm still going to see if i can find someone with a scanner that can run the O2's just to make sure all voltage is correct, but so far so good..
